Subbed

 

Plumbed in the gauge and got it mounted up in the cab. Also had to replace a warped water outlet housing, just letting it sit to seal up and then testing it tomorrow to see if it still leaks. Then it's back into dropping the tranny or atleast pulling it back far enough to get a look at the slave cylinder to see if it's a bad seal or a line popped loose

 

Well since I gotta wait on the slave cylinder til I have the time to drop the trans again, figured I'd weld in the last bung for the crossover steering that'll be going in with the new axles. Also remembered I forgot to mention I swapped out the manifold for some headers. Have some time tomorrow I might try and drop the trans, but things have been pretty busy around the house with my pops down south for work so hopefully I can find the time to check the slave out

 

Haven't been able to do much cause I picked up more hours at work.. But in messing around with looking for leaks/bad seals in the motor, I started it in gear without the clutch depressed and it cranked right over... So since the master is working fine, and the clutch is brand new and properly installed it looks like the slave is the weak link. Not getting the pressure it needs to engage the clutch even with the trans in gear. on a different note, anyone know how to take apart the main clutch line from the steel line on the slave? Can't seem to figure it out or find it anywhere, and seeing as they don't sell the master to slave line for my year I need to keep the one I've got intact.

 

The hydraulics are for disengaging the clutch, not keeping it engaged.

 

Yeesh. If the clutch/slave is anything like my old F150, then the line can be separated with a fuel line disconnect tool. Being that you're in a cold environment, I'd suspect that, and just look at replacing it.

 

Yea I was typing it a lil fast haha, it's not disengaging the clutch which is why I suspect I can start it with it in gear without touching the pedal

 

It's a 2 part, so it's the rubber type line with a connection to the steel like coming off the slave connected outside the bell housing. I think that's what we tried but couldn't get it so we just used the old steel line to the slave. Thinking it was a bad idea now haha. It's hard to find much on the interweb about the internal slave

 

No... The pedal disengages the clutch... If it starts with the transmission in gear that means the clutch is busted or a bearing is very wrong or maybe the fork is stuck back.

 

It's internal slave, there isn't a fork. But the slave leaks from inside the bell housing, so something isn't right. I'll have to pull it apart and check it out. Still learning the manual tranny, so thanks for correcting me lol. But regardless something between the trans and the motor is telling it it's not gonna move forward

 

Should have gone with an auto. Haha

Was the slave replaced already?

 

Autos aren't any fun tho!! Actually I take that back haha, but it was the only one I could find for under 1k and I needed a rig so I'm stuck with it now lol. And yea it was replaced with the clutch, but something may have come disconnected when I reinstalled the trans or it's got a bad seal. Won't know til I can drop the trans

 

So had a suuuuper full work week and am just now getting to dropping the trans again. Hopefully all goes well tonight and it'll be back on the road tomorrow morning/afternoon.

 

Leak is fixed, turned out to be a broken oring where the line connects to the slave. Haven't quite bolted the trans back up as we couldn't quite get it lined up right. So I'll sit on it for tonight and finish it up tomorrow and hopefully get some pics out of the garage lol

 

Glad it was an $.08 part and not something more spendy.
Do work son. We want video of this thing blasting through snow drifts!!!