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I tackled the rear shocks in the rain with a 3/8 ratchet. I went smooth and steady and didn't have to cut holes in the body. Jeep rides a lot nicer now.
Worried at first Factory exhaust Pretty clean under here One down Old and new Looks decent Whew My setup when it's raining lmao Done Sits higher with new shocks.
YEEEESSSSSSSS!!!!!! I'll keep my eyes open for parts and donor Jeeps.
Awesome!
So I'm thinking in going the Low COG build route and upgrading/rebuilding the diff, axles, transfer case, and transmission before install so I can get 600,000 miles on my 200,000 mile XJ. Another thing I'm thinking about down the road is a 4.6L stroker.
More parts that have been ordered:
- Cheap Chinese Stick On Window Deflectors - Installed and will post pictures later.
- Engine Coolant Temp Sensor for the Gauge - Was reading too low compared to scan data until this morning when it shot back to its normal home of 210.
- Washer pump for the reservoir. I hate not being able to put washer fluid on the windshield.
- I reordered the ZJ tie-rod and may do either the ZJ drag link or the factory drag link.
A few questions I'm battling:
- Should I do the WJ lowers or the JK rear uppers for the LCA swap? I'm trying to build the foundation in which when it's time to lift, I can lift without issue.
- To Durango steering box swap or not? The one on there now works fine.
Went to the Junkyard and saw a 2001 Limited with leather seats and couldn't pass that up. Unfortunately, the drivers seat wasn't worth pulling but scoring a passenger seat and rear bench was nice.
Also did the washer fluid pump and that was a cake walk, under 5 minutes. Now I can spray washer fluid for once.
Came with an NP242 2001 Limited Just came in a few days ago New bench seat installed
More parts that have been ordered:
- Cheap Chinese Stick On Window Deflectors - Installed and will post pictures later.
- Engine Coolant Temp Sensor for the Gauge - Was reading too low compared to scan data until this morning when it shot back to its normal home of 210.
- Washer pump for the reservoir. I hate not being able to put washer fluid on the windshield.
- I reordered the ZJ tie-rod and may do either the ZJ drag link or the factory drag link.
A few questions I'm battling:
1) Should I do the WJ lowers or the JK rear uppers for the LCA swap? I'm trying to build the foundation in which when it's time to lift, I can lift without issue.
2) To Durango steering box swap or not? The one on there now works fine.
1) Depends on how far you're going to lift it, I suppose. IIRC, the WJ CAs aren't any longer, per se, just are bent to be able to clear larger tires. The JK arms are longer, but I don't know how much. I BELIEVE they're good for about a 3" lift.
2) Run what you have for now until it breaks. I've been rolling around on 31"+ tires for a while now and my stock gearbox and PS pump is doing the job just fine. If you were in the rocks every day, it would be a different story. For the kind of driving/wheeling you and I encounter around here, what you have should be able to handle it with no problem. Now, once you start having a problem, I would recommend AT LEAST going with the WJ PS pump and then MAYBE upgrading the gearbox... just keep in mind, you lose just a little bit of turning radius with the Durango steering gear.
Originally Posted by jake92
Went to the Junkyard and saw a 2001 Limited with leather seats and couldn't pass that up. Unfortunately, the drivers seat wasn't worth pulling but scoring a passenger seat and rear bench was nice.
Also did the washer fluid pump and that was a cake walk, under 5 minutes. Now I can spray washer fluid for once.
Came with an NP242 2001 Limited Just came in a few days ago New bench seat installed
Nice, man! You're well on your way, it seems! If you don't want that NP 242, I'll swap you for a 231.
1) Depends on how far you're going to lift it, I suppose. IIRC, the WJ CAs aren't any longer, per se, just are bent to be able to clear larger tires. The JK arms are longer, but I don't know how much. I BELIEVE they're good for about a 3" lift.
2) Run what you have for now until it breaks. I've been rolling around on 31"+ tires for a while now and my stock gearbox and PS pump is doing the job just fine. If you were in the rocks every day, it would be a different story. For the kind of driving/wheeling you and I encounter around here, what you have should be able to handle it with no problem. Now, once you start having a problem, I would recommend AT LEAST going with the WJ PS pump and then MAYBE upgrading the gearbox... just keep in mind, you lose just a little bit of turning radius with the Durango steering gear.
Nice, man! You're well on your way, it seems! If you don't want that NP 242, I'll swap you for a 231.
Hmm, I just want to upgrade the stock components while I wait on these destinations to wear out.
Unfortuantely i I was unable to pull the drivetrain out. They didn't support this Jeep well and it almost fell over with me taking the seats out
Hmm, I just want to upgrade the stock components while I wait on these destinations to wear out.
Unfortuantely i I was unable to pull the drivetrain out. They didn't support this Jeep well and it almost fell over with me taking the seats out
Ah... man that sucks. Check with the yard tender... usually the guy on the loader. MOST places I've been too, if you're going to be pulling axles, transmissions, transfer cases out, they'll pick the car up and put it on a work stand for you to do it safely.
Ah... man that sucks. Check with the yard tender... usually the guy on the loader. MOST places I've been too, if you're going to be pulling axles, transmissions, transfer cases out, they'll pick the car up and put it on a work stand for you to do it safely.
Yeah Ace is great about that stuff, so they would work with me. The only issue now is there are a few people around me wanting to part with 4x4 XJs that are on decent shape but just need some sensor replacements or a new header panel. I might be buying a off-road project XJ and making this one my DD XJ.
WHEW! Big plans! BTW, not sure if you've done any research on it, but there's a HUGE price difference between a 4.6L and 5.0L stroker. 5.0 is almost unheard of, 4.8 and 4.9 is pretty uncommon due to the price difference too. From what I've seen 4.5 is the cheapest and easiest with the least amount of work involved, but most people end up choosing to go with the 4.6 or 4.7 since they've already got the block torn down. 4.5 is the "poor man's stroker", 4.6 or 4.7 offers "best bang for the buck".
Roninofako has a 4.6 liter and Outlaw Star has stroked all kinds of motors... they'd both be good resources to pull from.
08-07-2017, 08:24 PM
