i looked at the body alittle bit but it was more or less to see what i could sell off of it... lol... not so much worried about all that... i do plan to pull the motor and kinda go through it... pull the heads and see how everything looks... if the cylinder walls look fine then ill just do a head gasket kit and change gaskets on the lower end as well... and i need a drivers drop transfercase with a 28 spline output... or i could rebuild the spare 700r4 with a 32 spline so i can use the 88+ 241... ive read they have a 241 28 spline in the s10 blazers but im not sure if its the same 241 basically... need it to hold up to 37's so i got alot of research to do there... drivers drop transfercases are harder to find... i would like to fix the starting problem before i pull the motor though... what do you recomment i replace to get that taken care of? im not sure if the glow plugs come on or not when the motors warm... he says they dont though so i dunno... should be fun!! let me know if you need any parts too fantic... lol

 

Lol, do you remember i'm not exacly next door? Anyway these CUCV are really affordable now that they have been dismissed. I've got tons of spare parts aswell. I don't know if your system is the same as mine, i've got two alternators and two batteries, but i'm sure the glow plug control is 12volts. After doing a lot of research, I figured out it was the Glow plug temp. switch. It is located on drivers side head in back. It determines temp. of coolant for glow cycles. From I have read, these switches just suck. so I wired a manual push button in the wait of the spare part. These plugs are self regulating and might come on at any time and stay on for long time when the weather is really cold.
So basically if you bypass the switch you can have them coming on at every start.
The chevy 241 has the six bolt circular pattern and is not symmetrical, so you can't clock it.
Here read this:
http://www.high-impact.net/transmiss...ase_NP241.htm*

 

Yeah i member... in Naples or something... lol... this Ines all 12 volt already... different alt and starter... still have dual batteries... ill read up on bypassing that switch and doing it manually... I'm sure There's a write up somewhere... ill hit up that link when I get home on a real computer... I know the 241 from a 88+ Chevy will bolt up to the th400 that u Should have in yours... civilian k5's have the 700r4... which is 28... I haven't found a decent thread yet on these so Ill check yours out later... thanks!

 

Link don't work boss... I tried it with the phone... guess its a dead link now man... lol

 

strange.. here you go again:
http://www.high-impact.net/transmiss...case_NP241.htm

 

ah... typo when i pressed enter it added * to the link..

 

Yeah that's right... if I find a 241 from a 88+ that's bolted to a 4l60e it'll bolt to the 700r4... from Chevy tranny to Chevy tranny... before I was going to use the th400 and use the 241 from a 4l80e or another th400 because there 32 spline... although I'm thinking I may Still sell the 700r4 and buy a th400 so I can get the 32 spline vs. The 27... alittle stronger... but I wonder if the 241 would hold up I dunno...

 

the donor truck! and the trailer i picked up... darn trailer is made of 6in channel and both the axles got brakes... heavy as crap... lol... but the blazer made it about an hour drive through stop and go and 70mph speeds and was fine... they arnt kidding when they say there slow... i dunno if the turbo even works... lol... im gonna tinker with it some before i start pulling it... probly be the last thing i do...

 

also read and researched i can still use the 241 like planned... just gotta get it from a th350 or 700r4 truck 88+ basically... so im good there still... and the 700r4 has a lower gear... OD also but thats not a big deal to me... it shifted hard and great so i dont think im going to do anything to it... just rebuild the motor with acouple goodies...

 

Well got the gauge cluster and steering wheel sold on the K5... also got a guy coming tomorrow to get the whole front clip off of it... which is good for me because i told hime $50 and he pulls it... it worth more then that of course but i dont have to do it and its gotta come off anyways for me to get the engine out... well most of it... but this will make it MUCH easier... once i pull the motor and tranny then dudes going to come back and buy the rest of the truck for $250... which is more then the JY would give me for it... thats me keeping the fiberglass top and the 208 transfercase... him getting the body and axles which neither are great... axles gears are shot on front and back by the way... but doesnt look like anyone been inside them for years so i dont blame the seller... he rebuilt the front driveshaft thinking it was bad and never installed it back before selling the truck to me... but if he had he would have known the front axle was shot... its also got lock in hubs so it never spun just regular driving... the rear pinion had just one small chip... but that makes it unsellable non the less... sucks too cause it had 4.10's!

 

so i got a line on a 79 ford D44 HP front end with 5.13's an ARB with pump and chromo's... as well as a D60 rear with 5.13's chromos and spooled... both are linked and were under a XJ... he said $800 for the front cause at first thats all i was interested in... i offered $1k for both... he originally was asking $1.3K for both... this is a killer deal still though... its going to cost me $1.5k to build my front D44 by itself... then i could sell my 9in and D44 with the stuff i bought for them already and make alot of my money back... i could end up with these axles for like $500... ready to go... but im also going to have to link the rear or swap to leafs in the rear axle... linking the rear would be a nice option... lol...

 

i got it!! got a heck of a deal on the 79 D44 that came out of a XJ today... brand new warn hubs... brand new chomo's... 5.13 gears... ARB air locker with brand new air pump and all wiring... triangulated 4 link setup trussed with high steer arms for only $650 ill snag you all acouple pics here in a minute... i also picked up a 241 drivers drop to mount to my 700r4 so i have used NO adapters for this setup keeping my cost down low... just picking the right drivetrain to make it all work... came with driveshafts with 180k for only $150... gonna get rebuilt anyways with a SYE so milage dont matter to me... in fact thats the same milage as the rest of the drivetrain... now i can sell this 76 D44 that i have thats bone stock still... it also has the arms for it so someone can easily use on a XJ... im probly gonna swap knuckles though... my 9in is 5 lug and this new d44 is 8 lug... he says the knuckle is wore out but i may try and see if it can be repaired... if it can ill do that and convert the 9in to a 8 lug... if it cant then ill put the 76 knuckles on the 79 axle... 5 or 8 lug it doesnt matter to much to me as my H1's will get recentered to match... ive never heard of anyone sheering 5 lugs off anyways... dunno why theres so much talk about wanting 8 lugs so bad...

 

heres some pics of the new axle and the 241...

 

Wow that really is one heck of a deal! i would brace the UCA mounts tho. Jut having the tabs there is making me cringe lol

 

i thought the same thing... you should have seen the tabs welded to 1/4in plate that was welded to the underside of the unibody... only as wide as the unibody and about 4 inches long... it was almost a full blown XJ buggy man... 48in droop in the front and 58 in the rear (rear was also 4 linked)... and it was beat on... never seemed to hurt it any? was running 38's and full hydro... some things are stronger then you would think i guess?