Haney

I am finally back in the XJ business. I have been looking for a nice one for awhile and finally found one. It is a1999 Limited, Black with Tan leather interior. It has 117K miles and is in really good condition. It is BONE stock and that is the topic ofthis post? I really want to do some modsand need some good advice or at least some opinions.

The use for my XJ will be for my DD in which I commute about50 miles a day. It is 80% interstate and20% city. I will also use it as a TOADvehicle behind my motor home when we travel via a Blue Ox towbar. It will see snow duty and some very light offroad work of easy two tracks in the East TN Mountains. No rough wheelin’ for this one. I just really like larger tires and a littlehigher stance on the XJs. So a goodvibration - free ride is really important to me.

What I have in mind:

· 3” Lift (coils, shocks, full packs)

· 31” x 10.50 ATs (Most likely BFGs)

· Adjustable Track Bar

· TC Drop Kit

Here is where I need your comments and suggestions:

· I am thinking Rusty’s Kit since I read here thatthere springs has a nice ride. Comments?

· Do I need Lower Control Arms? Should they be adjustable?

· Which Track bar? IRO Double sheer?

· My XJ currently has the Limited gray tear dropwheels, which I am not a big fan of. Ilike Ecco’s much better. Can I run31x10.50s on a factory wheel with out rubbing?

· How do Rusty’s shocks ride? Is it worth the $$ to upgrade toBilsteins?

Thanks for any advice you can give me. I will upload some pictures soon….. I will also document my build here as I go....

gpXJ

So, I can address a few of your questions.

- IRO track bar is a solid choice. I have one on my WJ and it is identical to the XJ piece with just a few different bends. It is well built and totally solid. You wouldn't regret choosing it.

- With stock wheels, that size tire will scrub on the lower control arms at full lock. The only way to prevent that is to use wheel spacers (which are perfectly fine for daily driving use, so long as you respect the fact you have another potential failure point and check the torque on them at least at every oil change/tire rotation), or to go with a different wheel with more backspacing.

- I can't speak for Rusty's shocks, though I assume by the low price of them that they are made to the same specs as most cheap, white-bodied shocks. I can comment on the Bilstein shocks, as I run those on my WJ as well and they are fantastic. They are well worth the additional cost. If I were making the decisions (and I will soon be doing this same build on my XJ soon), I would call Rusty's and ask to exclude the shocks both from the kit and from the price, and order a 4 pack of Bilsteins to compliment the lift.

Haney

Thanks for the reply.....

I mainly wanted to stay with the factory wheels for the deep backspacing as to keep the tire under the stock wheel flairs. How much of a spacer or what would be the correct BS to keep a 31x10.50 from rubbing but keep as much under the wheel flair?

Also, any comment on newer lower control arms? Would the bent ones keep the tires from rubbing at full turn?

Thanks

gpXJ

With a 3" lift, you shouldn't need control arms (definitely not upper, really not lowers) unless you just want them. Bent lowers might prevent wheel scrubbing. You could also always turn out the steering stops a small bit, which would slight lower your turning radius, and thus prevent the wheels from going over so far and rubbing.

With wheel spacers (will probably need 1-1.25"), the issue you might run into is once you get the tires pushed out so far, they might cause the tires to get into the fender flares. This can be controlled with bumpstopping.

GreenXJ98

I've got a Rusty's 3 inch advanced kit, and the coils and leafs are pretty nice. It rides really well on road, and I've flexed it like crazy off road, and it rode real nice. It's not harsh or bumpy at all. Their shocks, like stated before, are just run-of-the-mill, so I'd go with Bilsteins if you have the budget for them. Best of luck with the build!

*The Dude*

I've put Rusty's 3" springs on two of the four Cherokee we have. One got a 2 " budget lift and the other has a 4 1/2 "ift on order. Back in the day I put a 4 1/2" on my old 87.

Thats the history. I can say that the 3" springs feel nice. Firm, but not so as to jar your teeth and just right to help offset the bouce. They are for sure better than the stock springs with the budget lift.

The 4 1/2 " packs seem to me to ride a littel softer if my memory serves me right.

Everything they said about back spacing and rubbing is acurate. If you keep the stock wheels, you will rub at 3 " or 4 1/2 " or 10" becaue the will rub the control arms. You will want to get the bump stops to prevent you from hitting the fender flares and get some wheels with the back spacing or do as gpXJ said and turn the stops out a bit. You will probably not even notice the change in radius. If you get the wheels you can keep the radius but will want the bump stops for sure to keep from rubbing the flares when flexed. I myself just trimmed mine down, but thats a personal preference thing. My new one I am building now I plan on bumpers later that will prevent rubbing on the front ofteh flares in the front but I will still need some stops from rubbing on the upper edges because my wheels will run 4.5" of back spacing. My sons 3" lift now runs that with his 3" lift and 31 x 10.5 x 15s and he has little to no rubbing. BUt I am going with 32 x 11.5 x 15.

Also, at 3" you will not need lower control arms and the bends won't help you from rubbing the wheels. They are bent to try to correct some of the caster that is lost from the lift and to isolate some of the road feel from pulling the control arms down. I didn't instal any with either 3" and they both run out fine with not issues or DW.

I would not get a transfer case drop if you dont need it yet. Run the 3" and see if you get any vibrations. I ran 4 1/2 on my old 87 and didn't use a tc drop. I dont plan to put mine on that is coming with my new 4 1/2 kit until i put it all on and run it for a bit to see if I get them.

I also have used the shocks that came in the kits and loved them. They ride well and prevent the bounce that you dont want.

Lots of good advice here throughout the thread.

Best wishes.

Haney

Thanks for all the replies.... I just got my email back from Jeep and here is my buildsheet.... Pretty much loaded up! It was good to see that it has the upcountry supension and 124 amp alternator on it.


Sales Code Description

*DL Prem Leather Trimmed Bucket Seats
-K5 Camel
ADAP Light Group
ADLP Skid Plate Group
APAS Monotone Paint
ARTP Classic Decor Group
ASTP Limited Group
AWE Up Country Suspension Group
AWHP Power Equipment Group
AWS Smoker's Group
A20P 4.0L Engine(ERH)/4Sp Auto Trans(DGS
BASS 124 Amp Alternator
BCDS 500 Amp Maintenance Free Battery
BGAS Power Front Disc/Rear Drum Brakes
CACP Low Back Bucket Seats
CBZP Prem Vinyl Door Trim w/Map Pocket
CDBS Reclining Front Seats
CFMS Rear Fold w/Removable Cushion Seat
CGGS Traveling Inboard Seat Belt Buckle
CGWS Next Generation Front Air Bags**
CKAS Carpets - Floor and Cargo Area
CKNS Cargo Compartment Carpet
CKTS Cargo Tie Down Loops
CKXS Plastic Liftgate Trim Panel
CLEP Front & Rear Floor Mats
CSAP Spare Tire Cover
CSCP Cargo Compartment Cover
CSRS Passenger Assist Handles
CSSS Lift Gate Assist Handle
CUFS Full Length Floor Console
CUNP Overhead Console
CUXP Front & Rear Ash Trays
DGB All 4-Speed Automatic Transmissions
DGSS 4-Speed Automatic AW4 Transmission
DHAP Lock-Up Torque Converter
DHPP Selec-Trac Full Time 4WD System
DHSP Floor Mount Automatic Shift Lever
DJHS Dana M30/181MM Front Axle
DMDP 3.55 Rear Axle Ratio
DRAS Corporate 8.25 Rear Axle
DSAP Trac-Lok Differential Rear Axle
EAAC All Engines
ERH 4.0L I6 Power Tech Engine
GALP Deep Tint Sunscreen Glass
GBBS Tinted Windshield Glass
GCBS Front Door Tinted Glass
GEEP Deep Tint Sunscreen Liftgate Glass
GFAS Rear Window Defroster
GNAS Rear View Day/Night Mirror
GNCP Sun Visors w/Illum Vanity Mirrors
GTZP Power Mirrors, Fold-Away
GVBC All Vehicles W/Power Mirrors
GXMP Remote Keyless Entry
GXX Sentry Key Theft Deterrent System
HAAP Air Conditioning
HGDS Deluxe Insulation Group
JAYP Instrument Cluster w/Tach
JBGP Instrument Panel Woodgrain Bezel
JCDS 100 MPH Primary Speedometer
JHAS Var Intermittent Windshield Wipers
JHBP Rear Window Wiper/Washer
JJAP Cigar Lighter
JJBS Dual Note Electric Horns
JJJS 12V Auxiliary Power Outlet
JPAP Power Windows
JPBP Power Locks
JPSP Power 6-Way Driver Seat
KAPP RADIANT SILVER - Badge
KBSP SILVER MET - PAINT STRIPE, DUAL - UPP
KGPS RADIANT SILVER MET. C/C - BADGE - JE
KRPS RADIANT SILVER MET. C/C - BADGE - 4
KTPS RADIANT SILVER MET. C/C - JEEP
KYPP RADIANT SILVER MET. C/C - 4.0L
K2XP BLACK CLEAR COAT - MOLDING
K3XS BLACK - FENDER FLARES
LAJS Headlamps On Warning Chimes
LBBP Courtesy Lamps
LDAP Underhood Lamp
LDBP Cargo Compartment Lamp
LHDP Headlamp Off Time Delay
LMAS Halogen Headlamps
LPSS CHMSL Lamp
MBLP Body Color Front Bumper
MBMP Body Color Front Bumper End Caps
MBTP Body Color Rear Bumper
MBWP Body Color Rear Bumper End Caps
MCAS Front Bumper Guards
MDA Front License Plate Bracket
MFBP Body Color Headlamp Bezels
MFKP Body Color Grille
MHAS Black Windshield Moldings
MMCS Rear Qtr Solid Window Insert
MMGS Belt Moldings
MMKS Body Color Drip Trough Molding
MNAS Black Door Handles
MNNP Body Color License Plate Brow
MWGP Roof Rack
NAA Federal Emissions
NBKS EVAP Control System
NFAS 20 Gallon Fuel Tank
NHBP Auxiliary Transmission Oil Cooler
NHMP Speed Control
NMCP Heavy Duty Engine Cooling
PX8 Black Clear Coat
QX8S Black Clear Coat
RAAC All Radio Equipped Vehicles
RAZ AM/FM Cassette Compact Disc Radio
RCRP 4 Speakers
RDDP Fixed Long Mast Antenna
SBAS Power Steering
SCGP Leather Wrapped Steering Wheel
SDUP Heavy Duty Suspension w/Gas Shocks
SHAS Front Stabilizer Bar
SH8P Delete Rear Stabilizer Bar
SUAP Tilt Steering Column
TBBP Full Size Spare Tire
TBLS Inside Mounted Spare Tire
TRLP P225/75R15 Wrangler RT/S AT Tires
TZAP Goodyear Brand Tires
WJ7P 15X7.0 Luxury Aluminum Wheels
WKBP Matching Spare Wheel
WLZC All Aluminum Wheels
XCYS Upgraded OBD-II Connectors
XEAP Tow Hooks
XEEP Fuel Tank Skid Plate Shield
XEFP Transfer Case Skid Plate Shield
XEUP Front Suspension Skid Plate
XJFS Tethered Fuel Filler Cap
XPFS Protective Coating and Remover
YAAS Build To U.S. Mkt. Specifications

Haney

More Questions for the experts:

1. Since I have the Upcountry spring packs which are 1" taller, could I use a BB kit from Rustys (spacers and shackles) and fit 31's?

2. If I did the BB could I use shocks for a 3" kit so that later if I do the new springs and leaf packs, I could reuse the shocks?

3. I really like the Fuel Anza Wheels in the gray color. The 15x8's have a 3.75 BS and the 16x8s have a 4.5 BS. Could I use the 16x8s and a 245/75/16 or 265/70/16 tire (31's) and be ok with miminal rubbing? The extra .75" of backspacing would allow me to keep as much tire under the factory flairs as possible is what I am thinking? Any drawbacks of a 16" tire over a 15" tire? How would the 245/75's look and perform on the XJ?

Sorry for all the questions. Tires, lifts, wheels and shocks are expensive so I only want to buy what I need.

*The Dude*

If I am following you right, you will end up with 3" of lift when you do that.

I know that with a 3" lift on two of my sons lift that the 30" tires will run with no bubbing and the 31" tires will rub gently when turnning in and out of steep drives. Mainly backing out is the worst time. The son with 30" tires is running the 15" wheels you are referring to but he has the smaller tire. My third son is running 15" wheels with 4.5 on 31s.

So to answer your question....my "guess" would be that you will be OK with what you want as long as the factory springs have not sagged and you get the BB. The issue is over the years have the springs sagged and you find out that you actually just got your factory ride hight plus an inch now. That will rub the 31s too much IMO. To avoid that chance, you could get this kit which comes with 3" front coils and rear add a leafs. Then if you find that the rear springs had sagged and you still need an inch or more you can add these types of shackles to get it just right. They even have them in .75".

If it was me, I would save up the cash and get the 3" spring pack kit "without" the lower control arms. This one. They arent needed IMO for the 3" lift. I don't have any on either of the boys with the 3" lifts. You can then later get the adjustable trac bar when you can afford it. Its good to have but not 100% needed. The front wheels will dog trac a bit but not really able to see it. The younger sons does not have one on it and it tracs fine.

My 4 1/2" kit came with them, but I think when you get that high you need them to adjust the caster back to spec and to get back the road isolation you lose when moving the lower arms more perpendicular. <-I know I spelled that wrong...lol

With any of the kits higher than 2" you will want longer shocks to take advantage of the lifts and you might even find that the factory ones won't even connect with the new hight.

Hope this helps.

*The Dude*

Also, I have not used the TC drop on "ANY" of mine including the 4 1/2" lift. But when you do the 4 1/2" you "HAVE" to use the indexing shim to bring the rear u-joint on the drive shaft back in line with the shaft and diff yoke.

Haney

Dude,
Thanks for all the input. I know you are right. I just need to do it right the first time. Do you have the Rusty's 3" Kit on any of your cherokees? How do you like the shocks? Do you have the HD front springs or standard? Jury still on on if a bumper is in my furture, definitely not a winch though. Like a JCR front bumper. So maybe ok with standard springs.

*The Dude*

We have 3" coils on both the 97 and the 2001. The last time I called they said they were using the same spring up front and that there was no difference. Actually, I can't remember if I called before the 3" or the 4 1/2". But I think either way you will be fine. If they do offer a different spring in the 3" and you get the ones with less lb and it sags a bit with the bumper, you can add a spacer. If you don't get the bumper and winch,then you are good for sure IMO.

My first post will tell you, but the shocks work fine an do as they are intended. No problems from any of them yet and they all have a few miles on them now.