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You should maybe start marketing those inserts?
What a great idea on them. Good job.
Thank you!
Even though only some of the screws are biting in the RTV right now (so I only have about half of the screws actually doing anything) the entire rear panel is already pretty solid and doesn't vibrate. Our trip on the long weekend was so much better than previous ones; the rattling is more or less totally gone.
I'm sure once the inserts are installed the entire thing should be solid enough to mount stuff to the interior panel. I've seen people mount recovery gear to the interior panel on the hatch. While I won't go that far, I think this set up will be solid enough to support a lot more weight and gear.
For some of the other parts I've had 3D printed I've made them available to sell (more or less at cost) online. Further up in my build thread you'll find description and links to those parts (headlight switch bezel, etc). With the inserts I'll test them out as soon as I can to make sure they work and the design doesn't need to be tweaked, then I'll make them available for people to buy online. It sounds like enough people are interested that I might as well spend the 30 minutes and get the design posted.
Now that these are all working out I might post something in buy/sell for more visibility.
Out of curiosity, what kind of price would you think is fair for one of the inserts? 3D printing can be expensive depending on the design and I optimized as best as I could but I'm trying to figure out if I should optimize the design more to reduce cost (at the risk of them being less strong) or if I should leave them as is.
Just might be stealing that rear hatch idea for my new XJ. Same thing stupid plastic tabs broken and I need to find a way to make it fit back on.
Go for it!
It's night/ day compared to before. Rattling is pretty much already completely gone. The panel doesn't fall down and hit me in the head anymore when the hatch is open either!
As mentioned in my previous reply to DustyWagoneer, I'll install the plastic inserts as soon as I can. Once I confirm they work I'll post the link to them on Shapeways as well - in case you want to go that route. It's simple enough anyone can make their own if they have the means though.
I pulled the dash bezel and tried installing the phone mount, but quickly realized I had some key dimensions wrong when I designed it. I don't know how I screwed it up - I had been measuring off of a spare clock I had (from a previous year XJ) so perhaps I confused myself measuring off of a slightly different version of the clock.
Regardless, the dimensions I messed up are for the mounting flanges (flanges to mount it to the dash) so it was sticking too far out. It would mount in there but I could not get the bezel back on so I didn't install it.
So I took the opportunity to fix the design for the mounting holes, fix the issue with the screw head counterbore being missing, and add a hole for the aux in port.
I'm having it re-printed but I triple checked everything and it should fit now.
So that was annoying, as little of a thing this was I was hoping it would come together this week.
On the positive side, since I had the clock out and dash bezel pulled I was able to test the aux in cable I bought on our stereo. It's an old stereo but it has aux in the back. No mode for aux in on the stereo, but if you plug something in the stereo acts as an amp and will play the music. So we can play music or podcasts off of our phones now! This is a relief since we only have ONE CD for the Jeep.. and BC highways often don't get radio signal once you get into the mountains so we played the same CD 4 times on our trip on the long weekend. Since there's no mode for it, you can play music whenever and the stereo just drives that input to the rear speakers. So if the radio is on the stereo will play the radio on the front speakers and the music from the phone on the rear. As odd as this sounds, if we play music off the phone we can just set it to "CD" and have no CD playing. Also, since the stereo volume dial simply "adds" to the volume off of the device I can have stereo volume set to zero and the phone will still play audio. This means even if we are playing music over the stereo, if we get a call on the phone, or if the GPS starts barking at us while listening to the radio, we can just turn the radio volume down to zero to mute the radio and the phone will still play audio out of the rear car speakers.
Finally, after searching for a long time to find it for cheap in Canada I found the 6-32 to barb fitting I was planning on using to repair for rear windshield wiper fluid. I've seen the "Great Planes 6-32 to barb fitting GPMQ4168" often recommended to replace broken wiper hose barb on the hatch. While I can find this in Canada, I was having a hard time finding it for less than $20 CAD + shipping. I spent more time this weekend looking and was able to buy two of them for $6 CAD with shipping included. So hopefully in a couple weeks we can wash the rear window...
I'm still planning on installing the rear hatch panel next week. I have to borrow a cordless drill from the tool library.
Long time.. no update. Been busy getting ready for our trip, as well as go hiking on the weekends and weekdays!
Phone Mount:
Got the new one in the mail a few weeks ago. I had to revise the design to make it fit, but this time I got it right. I also modified the design to have a hole in the panel for the aux in audio cable.
I had to shave some of the plastic off the back in a few spots to get it to clear some of the other parts behind it in the dash, but it was really not a big deal.
We've been using the Jeep the past few weeks with it, and it works quite well.
Rear Wiper Hose:
This truly was a $5 fix.
I got 2x 6-32 to barb fittings; $6 for both shipped. I bought a short length of clear hose at Home Hardware for $0.60.
Fifteen minutes later I had this done. The washer fluid pump works, so this is now fully works. We can clean the rear window now when we drive down dirt roads!
Rear Hatch Panel:
I finally got around to screwing in the flanged inserts into the rear hatch so I could mount the interior panel in better.
I didn't take any good photos.. so just the one pic.
I needed to drill the holes out a bit - I think I used a 1/2" bit. Then I used two rivets on each. Drilled them out with 1/8" bit and used pop rivets.
The thing is now SOLID. I could hang off of it if I wanted to...
Other:
This mostly works through my short term list. I'll update the list in another post soon, but I'm still trying to time/ cost out new springs and tires.
During our last trip, I realized our headlights were horrible and then subsequently realized that I have not done the headlight harness upgrade yet (I've been meaning to!). I'll be adding that to the list... I'm thinking Relay Harness, Autolites and some H4 bulbs. Not looking at anything too fancy for now - just want something better than the sealed beams that are in it.
Finish the mirror switch mounting and installation [DONE]
Fix the mounting of the rear hatch interior panel [DONE]
Finish design and manufacture of phone mount where the clock is [DONE]
Finish installing LEDs in the overhead console. [DONE]
Under hood lighting
Install the two speakers under the dash in the stock location
Install AUX in cable onto the current stereo. [DONE]
Fire extinguisher mounting [DONE]
Make the cargo area cover [DONE]
Replace valve cover gasket & paint valve cover.
General cleanup under the hood, replace some conduit and repair wiring if necessary (the shop I just got the Jeep back from has probed all the sensors so I'll make sure the wires are now appropriately protected). [Didn't do much but I checked and the wires look good - I don't need to do anything]
Repair the rear wiper hose (broken hose) [DONE]
Replaced the sagging rear hatch lift supports. [DONE]
Cupholders.. I keep flip flopping on this. I want to do it but keep changing my mind of what to do. I might go all out and make an entirely new fibrelglass cupholder panel.
Repair the rear hatch lock mechanism light switch - eg the thing that turns the cargo area light on when the hatch is open.
New tires; at least suitable ones for next winter
Redo the wiring for the rear seat aux power/ USB port. I had built the harness of off a circuit triggered by the headlight switch by mistake. I've since built a harness that plugs into the clock harness instead (so I don't have a live harness exposed from the clock). I used the stock plug so it just plugs into the clock harness. [DONE]
That is great idea for a phone mount, are you going to have a link for that phone mount?
How is it handling? no chips or cracking due to the phone weight?
Sure! Links below for the new parts.
The phone mount is working really well. It vibrates a bit but not enough to make it difficult to read the map on the screen of the phone. The vibrations should almost go away if you adjust it so the phone is in contact with the dash panel rather than being cantilevered out away from the dash.
No cracks or issues that I've seen so far. The plastic used is quite flexible so I'm pretty sure it will hold up.
You can buy it and modify it, or make your own that fits.
Rear Hatch Interior Panel Flanged Mount:
I have confirmed these work VERY well. As above, drill 1/8" holes to line up with the holes in the flanges. Then rivet into the fibreglass. Use at least 2 rivets and each mounting point will be solid. Then just use self tapping screws to screw the interior panel into this plastic piece instead of using the horrible, brittle OEM panel clips.
You will need roughly 10 for the rear hatch. I believe there are 11 clips but 10 are more than enough to install the panel solidly.
We are heading out for the long weekend to go hiking so had to get through some maintenance before we go.
We changed the oil today on Malcom. Well... my wife changed the oil and I changed the oil filter.
This is the first oil change we did on the Jeep ourselves - the first one was done by an oil change shop when we bought it (first thing we did). I was surprised that the drain plug was in good shape and not destroyed by the oil change shop techs... everything went without a hitch, which is a rare occurrence!
I know it's controversial but we installed a Fumoto F111SX valve instead of the plug. I know we don't save much effort by using it, but since we have to change the oil in the alley and not in our parking garage I wanted something easier to use and a little less messy. Install was easy and it doesn't leak. The valve is pretty low profile relative to the other ones, so I think it's pretty unlikely to get ripped out (especially since I don't 4x4; anything that would rip this valve out would also tear up the oil pan..). I've kept the original drain plug in the "spare oil" kit in the back of the Jeep just in case the fumoto valve starts to leak though.
So yea, not too crazy but was a nice feeling to get fresh oil in the Jeep before the trip!
Those plugs are pretty good, a lot of vehicles like fire trucks and caterpillar equipment have those kinds of plugs. The only problem i have ran into every now and then is that dirt builds up in that area and either plugs the hole or the lever becomes damaged. But we are talking about vehicles that people that ride them, ride them stupid hard.
I went with these... have not had any problems yet, over 3 years old.
Those plugs are pretty good, a lot of vehicles like fire trucks and caterpillar equipment have those kinds of plugs. The only problem i have ran into every now and then is that dirt builds up in that area and either plugs the hole or the lever becomes damaged. But we are talking about vehicles that people that ride them, ride them stupid hard.
I went with these... have not had any problems yet, over 3 years old.
Thanks! I didn't think about the dirt build up in the valve or lever - that's a good point.
I'm not sure we will push it hard enough to damage the lever though. So I'm pretty comfortable with the decision to go with the valve.
The one you have looks nice - simple and low profile. I like it!
I'm happy to say we got through our trip this weekend without any leaks - so I feel less nervous about the valve and can probably check it less often I'll probably check it today to see how much dirt and mud is built up.
When we went for our long weekend hike, I found the sidwalls on our tires beginning to bulge. This is obviously no good and expedited our plans for new tires. We have to pick up my mom in another city this summer, so blowing a tire on the highway with my mother in the XJ would be a REALLY bad thing to happen.
We got General Grabber AT2s - 275/35/R15's - same size of tires we currently have. Fits the XJ well enough with no or small amount of lift.
Got a reasonable deal on the tires, so this didn't set us too far back.
I also still plan on getting dedicated winter tires for the winter - but these AT2s will hopefully be better at the start of the winter season than our previous, crummy Motomaster tires.
I had to leave town for work this week, so I couldn't be around when they got installed but my wife was able to bring the Jeep in for the tire swap and she sent me photos. She didn't complain about them so I'm assuming they aren't ridiculously loud or anything. We'll find out next week though!
Next step is to get pricing on the "upcountry" lift. I have a price sorted on the parts, but installation is still what I need quoted.
Finally back from extended holiday! We hiked ~1130 kms over 45 days, with a few extra rest days. That's a long time to be gone and now I'm hoping I remember what I started!
Some small updates:
I finally contacted a local shop about getting the Upcountry Suspension installed. They are locally owned and are an overlanding outfitting company. So I'm hopeful that we could build a relationship as I'll eventually want a roof rack and roof top tent and they seem like a cool couple of people trying to make their business succeed. I'm waiting for the estimate to come through but I'm hoping to get the suspension installed before the end of the month.
I did not get to install the headlight harness before I left on holiday, so I need to do that next. I am still looking for replacement headlight housings and bulbs. I am looking into Autopal Autolite housings, but I keep finding them on ebay with expensive shipping. Does anyone have a source for these that have reasonable shipping costs? I would like these in hand before I install the headlight relay harness - I'm concerned my sealed beams might... disintegrate.. when I take them out. Any recommendations? I want to keep the headlight upgrade as cheap as possible. I'm looking for incremental improvements - anything is better than what we have today.
I'll probably check it today to see how much dirt and mud is built up.
