moonsandals

It's been very windy and rainy the past two days, so I sat inside and wired up my own switches for the power mirrors. Absolutely not the priority, but stuff that doesn't function really bothers me and the replacement switch was more than $30. Junk Yards around me are a rip off too, so I'd need to find a donor Jeep on Craigslist and those are usually in rough shape. Total parts cost here is moot - I already had most of the parts and they are cheap anyways (the switches cost $5 CAD). I was able to get this done without being at the Jeep so it's something that I've had in mind for a while to do on a rainy day.

I don't have my multimeter with me (I think it's in the back of the Jeep, a couple blocks away parked outside our mechanic/shop) so I haven't tested the switches but the wiring diagrams and state / troubleshooting tables were pretty straight forward. I'm fairly certain I have the wiring done correctly so the only concern will be how good my connections are.

The switch is essentially a PCB with a plastic D pad that connects different circuits. I have the plastic piece but my PCB was broken:







I followed the following wiring diagrams to hack together my own.







I got set up to start. I needed:

• 1x DPDT On/Off/On switch
• 2x DPDT momentary on/off/on switches
• Wire
• Spade connectors
• Shrink tubing
• Liquid electrical tape
• Masking tape
• Soldering iron & solder
• Original switch (or any connector will do if you cut out the connector and splice into the wires in the Jeep directly)
• 2x cans of cider

Shhhh. I used speaker wire. I don't think this will be a problem. It's appropriately sized for the load and in the centre console.



I removed the PCB from the connector. It is held in with a screw. I remove the solder. Then I did a bit of a hack job soldering wires to each terminal.



It's easy to put too much solder on, which would short a circuit. So I checked to make sure non of the solder or pins are touching.

I then coated it in liquid electrical tape. I did several coats and when I was done coating it, I cleaned up the excess. I was thinking about potting it in resin for strain relief, but I added some heat shrink around all the wires and that worked really well. I removed it later for access to the wires while I was working on it but ended up re-doing it because the strain relief worked so well.









I made a cardboard switch panel to keep the switches organized. I'll use this to test and once I confirm the switches work I will make a permanent one (probably 3D printed or just a flat plastic panel). This helps keep track of which side of which switch does each function.



The plastic connector is labelled (along with the wires) to match the wiring diagram.







Initial wiring set up. I cleaned and labelled some wires better.



After I cleaned up the wiring, labelled them and added some conduit.






It looks like it takes up a lot of space, but I can pack all the wires up into a pretty tight package. The harness is a little long but there is plenty of room under the centre console so I am pretty sure I can work with this. I have the cupholders that go over the parking brake so I needed some extra length on the harness anyways.

I'll test it next week with the multimeter and if that checks out, I'll plug it into the Jeep and make sure the motors actually work. Then next step is to design and make the switch panel and install it permanently!

moonsandals

Wife drove the Jeep to work and home today. She says it runs really well and she seems happy. I heard it idle again (we bumped into each other on the way home) and it sounds really good - so I'm pretty stoked. The "misfire" issue is closed.. for now. And this also means I got my multimeter out of my toolbox in the back so I could test out my wiring.

I checked all of my wiring today for continuity and checked it against the troubleshooting table quoted above. So far, all the wires have continuity and the switch function is correct as per the guide.

I'll install it in the Jeep tomorrow (or possibly later tonight in between chores) to test function with actual mirrors.

Heck with it. I already tested it. The mirrors all work. The switches work perfectly and the mirrors move smoothly!

I'll design a switch panel tonight so I can just finish this.

moonsandals

When I was troubleshooting the misfire, I removed the throttle body to clean the throttle body and test and replace the TPS. When I reinstalled it I goofed and had the torque wrench set wrong and had yielded the threads on a bolt hole. The throttle body was installed tight enough to the intake manifold for test drives but I wasn't comfortable taking this out on the highway. I didn't want a pothole or something to cause the throttle body to pop off a little bit.. unlikely but still not worth the risk.

I've been waiting until the misfire was fixed before I repaired the threads.

Today I had a few hours at home while my wife was out volunteering so I tackled repairing the threads with Helicoils.

Why use helicoils?

• I could have increased the hole size, but M7 is rare and M8 starts getting big. This then means the holes on the throttle body may need to be increased to match the bolt diameter and it really just passes the issue onto the other components.
• I've used Helicoils many times and although they are extra effort I like being able to keep the stock bolts, stock bolt size, stock torques. Makes life easier and you almost don't notice the threads are repaired.

I had to "borrow" a cordless drill from a place called "The Tool Library". I don't have a cordless drill (I have a corded drill) and there are no power outlets in my parking garage in my apartment. The Tool Library is a local co-op that you join (pay an annual fee to join) then you can just check tools out like you would books at a regular library. Power tools are $1/day. It's a pretty good alternative to get access to tools you don't use frequently.

I used the M6 Helicoil kit. I used my own tap/die kit for the tap wrench. There's not a lot of tool access so the tap wrench I have was a tight fit and you'll see I had to remove one handle for some of the holes to give the tool clearance.

Anyways, pics below for those of you who may need to do this in the future.

The Helicoil kit arrived from Amazon this week (after much difficulty getting them to deliver the darn thing!)


I also got a new throttle body gasket at the same time. Didn't think the one on the Jeep would come off cleanly (I was right).


I removed the throttle body, stuffed a couple microfibre clothes into the intake and taped over the hole with masking tape to keep debris out. I then drilled out the holes with the 1/4" drill as per the Helicoil instructions. I taped the drill bit to make sure I didn't go too deep and start drilling through the bottom of the hole casting.. didn't want an intake leak through the bolt holes!


The two holes furthest from the fuel rail have plenty of tool access for the tap wrench.


The holes closer to the fuel rail have tighter clearance. I removed one handle and used tape to keep the wrench from coming apart when I had the wrench loose.


Not shown: I installed the helicoils into the threads using the supplied tool. I'm a little short, so I had to reach, making this more difficult than it should.
Not shown: I cleaned the throttle body again with throttle body cleaner and cleaned the gasket surfaces. I used a fine scotchbrite pad to polish the surface and installed the gasket.


Just like.. uh.. new? Like old. Yea.. that's it. The bolts tighten nicely. Everything's snug like a bug in a rug.

moonsandals

Today I finished the design of the switch panel. The switches I use are quite a bit larger than the stock one, so it was a bit of an exercise to fit them all in the same location as the original switch without it being too bulky.

Needed some room for the wires and back of switch. Since I'm installing it on the cupholder, I still want some room for the cupholders (I want to cut out the cupholders and make them deeper).

I'm having this housing 3D printed now. It should take 2 weeks before I can install it.

moonsandals

Since I just spent a bunch of money dealing with the misfire, I don't have cash for the suspension like I was hoping. We will be going on a significant holiday this year, some of which will be unpaid, so I can't spend too much on the Jeep.

The overall plan was an almost stock build, with an hint of overlanding. As mentioned before it's meant to get us to/ from hiking trails and be used for some camping. Long term, we might go for some longer roadtrips.

Over the next little while I'll be tackling some smaller projects that aren't very impressive, but nice to deal with and would make the Jeep more comfortable for us.

• Finish the mirror switch mounting and installation
• Fix the mounting of the rear hatch interior panel - clips all broke and it rattles now and is annoying A.F [Partially complete]
• Finish design and manufacture of phone mount where the clock is
• Finish installing LEDs in the overhead console. I ran out of LEDs when I upholstered it so the old bulbs are in it (not very bright).
• Under hood lighting
• Install the two speakers under the dash in the stock location
• Fire extinguisher mounting
• Make the cargo area cover
• Replace valve cover gasket & paint valve cover. General cleanup under the hood, replace some conduit and repair wiring if necessary (the shop I just got the Jeep back from has probed all the sensors so I'll make sure the wires are now appropriately protected).
• Repair the rear wiper hose (broken hose)

So I'll be updating the build for a while with this kind of work. Not the most exciting part of the build but I try to be clever on the little things and I'll add lots of photos.

Medium term I need to save up for:

• Upcountry suspension (~1-1.5" lift, heavy duty springs)
• Remove & paint the stock wheels black with teal green accents
• Replace the CAT
• Replace the aux fan with the newer style one. I have the fan, but need time in the spring/ summer to do this.
• Replace the stereo with one with aux input & a small screen + add a backup camera
• Positive battery cables - replace for peace of mind
• Fog lights

Long term:

• Roof rack
• Roof top tent
• Repair AC
• Repair Cruise Control

So its not going to be super interesting for a while, but I'll shift it into gear into more of an overlanding build eventually.

XJIrish4x4

Sorry to hear about your troubles! I'm glad you got it fixed but a bummer on having to downsize on your plans for a lift. Think positive and watch the classifieds around the area you might be surprised to find a lift even on a parted out Jeep or JY find. I had just found a 3" kit closer to Canada and the guy only wanted $65 for the damn thing. By the time he or his daughter responded to me it was gone. I didn't really need it but for the price I was going to pick it up and give it to someone who does. Keep your eyes open they are out there and If your only looking to go 3" you should be able to piece something together from the pick u parts. Not the best option but certainly doable if you want to save.

moonsandals

Thanks for the kind words!

In the beginning I've been leaning towards the upcountry option rather than a 2" or 3" lift, but the issue has been having cash now to do it. I basically paid to fix the misfire twice. I had planned getting new leaf springs/ coils with the money I spent the second time, so in the original plan I'd have that done by now.

With the suspension I need to go to a shop, so that's where the cost really will come from. I don't have a space to do it and I don't have any friends who are into helping with this kind of thing. The upcountry clone parts are actually quite cheap. I could buy those any time. It'll be the labour that costs me. I don't wheel so I don't have friends in that scene.

So I guess I just have to wait until I have the cash again to pay a shop to do the work, unless I make some friends and we do it ourselves.

It's been dry locally for part outs (really not many lately that have been any good), but now that you mention it there are a few that just popped up. I'm trying to keep largely a stock look and stock stance. One guy on Craigslist in a nearby city has a stock bumper with tow hooks and front skid plates for sale. He also has rear leaf springs that I could look at. If that stays available long enough and I can convince my wife to make the drive out there I might check them out. Although stock, my front bumper has been punched in the corner (barely missing the vacuum canister) by the PO. It'd be nice to get a straight one for cheap. So yea, I could probably still do a few things even on a budget. I could probably start widening my search to nearby cities too.

Regardless I keep reminding myself that the whole reason to have the Jeep is to drive it and take us hiking. It's running again (hopefully for a while) so I might as well enjoy it. The small things I'm working on (the short term stuff in my list above) are to cut down on annoyances so that will make it more enjoyable! And besides, the holiday we are saving up for in the summer (over 2 months holiday, some unpaid) is for a major hiking trip so our priorities are right I think.

XJIrish4x4

Right on I think you got it figured out and when the time is right, then feel the need to upgrade the suspension then I know you will. If you were closer I would be more than willing to put the lift on for you for free. Easy day but of course your not that close for that kind of job. Not entirely sure what your hiking trip entails but sounds awesome and stay safe. When I'm not working my wife and the kids are almost always out on the trails on foot! We love the out doors and I can't wait for the weather to break to start camping.

moonsandals

Thanks! If we were closer I'd take you up on that offer too!
That's the kind of thing I am missing as an adult nowadays. When I was a kid our family had all sorts of friends that would get together and help each other out. But everyone had a big yard, garage (my dad was a mechanic who owned his own shop, so we had a shop with two bays and all the tools to go with it). I love the city but that kind of thing doesn't seem as pervasive in the middle of the city.

I'm glad you get the kids and family outside as much as possible. When I was a child we never really spent that much time in the outdoors as a family, but now that I do it as an adult I can see just how valuable of an experience it is. I mean, we went dirtbiking or mountain biking every now and then.. but I really think getting outdoors once a week is a great goal for a family.

Thanks for the encouragement. My wife and I are going on a "through hike" this summer, here in Canada. We are hiking a 1200 km (approx 750 miles) trail for 2 months straight. The trail is along the rocky mountains so it will be 2 months of beautiful camping! Lots of planning; we have to ship our food and supplies to post boxes and camps in advance so we can resupply food and repair our gear every week or so. It takes a lot of coordination and can get costly so we need to make sure we have enough money for food, emergency spending, the trip overall, pay our mortgage, emergency funds for home, etc etc. We'll be safe though!

XJIrish4x4

Wow what an adventure that will be!!! I have read stories about the Pacific Coast or Crest Trail from Canada all the way through Washington-Oregon-California down to the border of Mexico. People do that certain times of the year as well just like you had said but of course a much farther trip your talking a couple thousand miles. They plan the routes just as you said and stop in place to pickup food and supplies. It is really crazy to do that and be on your own in the woods for days upon months. I couldn't imagine but at the same time I watch that Alaska show on TV where they live out in Alaska off the grid and my wife and I would love to do that. We would defiantly need to give up a lot of everyday life type things to do it but it could be done. Alaska though is a place that does not forgive lol so maybe that would not be the ideal place to go because one wrong move and you could find yourself in a very bad situation life or death!

On another note yes it is very rewarding to have the opportunity to get my kids out like we do. I have done a lot while I was growing up, but the rough part was my parents were divorced so I didn't have that Mom and Dad adventure like my kids get. We got your occasional camping trips from time to time but it was different. I still remember I would venture off into the woods and wouldn't come back until dinner. Nowadays you can't get a kid outside of the house.

moonsandals

Yup! We've done sections on the PCT but we can't commit to taking the time off to do the full length of that through hike at this time so we chose the GDT (the hike we are doing this year) because it's a perfect size for our lives/ schedule this year. The GDT is a continuation of the continental divide trail in the US. We'll work our way up to the PCT and Continental Divide Trail over the next few years.

Last summer we wilderness hiked in Denali in Alaska for ~ 9 days with some friends and that was amazing. If you want to spend some time "off the grid" Denali is a good place to do it for a few days at a time. It's accessible, they control how many people are in each area so you don't run into other people, and it's like you're the only ones who have ever been to that spot. It'll be just you, your family and your tent/ gear. And the bears and wolves. But they are nothing to be too afraid of if you respect them and follow the rules.

Haha.. you are right about kids (and even adults) being stuck inside the house.

moonsandals

So I got the 3D printed power mirror switch panel in this past week. I was able to fit it to the cupholder panel today and install in the Jeep.

I made the holes for the switches a little small on purpose (because 3D printing isn't the most precise), with the plan to file or cut away excess material to make the switches fit. While I was having coffee this morning I was carefully shaving the holes slightly larger until the switches fit.

I put some heat shrink on the back spades after installing switches into the new panel.

Cut a hole in the cupholder panel and screwed everything together.

Not the best photos, it's dark in the garage.






I could tidy up the wiring a bit and make it take up less space, but it fits so I didn't bother. The length of the harness is perfect - I can remove and install everything with enough slack in the harness so it's never under tension.

I like how the switch panel itself turned out and looks. It's pretty robust and the switches are recessed so they don't get accidentally bumped.





The flash is bright and makes the switch panel look grey when it's just a matte black, not too much different than the cupholder colour. However the cupholder is shiny so it shows up more black in the picture.

Generally though I don't like how it aesthetically fits in (or rather doesn't) with the cupholder. However I don't like the cupholder much at all and was planning on either modifying it (less likely) or making a new one out of fibreglass (more likely). I like the location of the cupholder and I think the concept is smart, but the cupholder itself is barely effective and ugly. If I make a new one I'll integrate this switch panel better. I'll probably reposition the cupholders and recess the surface the switch panel sits on more. I was also thinking of making a symmetric switch panel for the other side for other switches.

In addition to this, last weekend I got fed up with the plastic clips on the rear hatch interior panel. The tabs that hold the clips are brittle and break off. I had already repaired it by "welding" the plastic together and using zip ties as filler material. But it's still brittle and the tabs that hold the clips in break every time I install or remove the panel. That's not very often.. but installing the panel and having a tab break means I then have to remove it.. and more tabs break. Then fix it.. reinstall.. tabs break again. So the rattling drives me nuts.

I drilled the tabs out and replaced the clips with screws and washers. I put foam rubber on the back as a spacer. I filled the holes in the fibreglass hatch with RTV, so the self tapping screws thread into the RTV.












I did that last weekend, so now the RTV is cured fully. I installed it on the hatch today. Some of the screws aren't tapping into the RTV (they are just deforming the RTV and not yet biting) so I'll need to remove it again and start those screws without the panel there. I hate half finishing something but I needed to work on other stuff in the apartment so I left it as is. The panel will still rattle a bit but from what I can tell the foam will make it more bearable until I get another minute to finish.

While I had the panel off I looked at the rear wiper hose and the rear light switch. The wiper hose is a little loose on the barb so I'll need to look at that closer and possibly fix.

The rear hatch switch (the one that triggers when the hatch is open) hasn't been working. I cleaned it with contact cleaner and polished surfaces with a scotchbrite and it still doesn't work. Does anyone have a photo of theirs I could look at to see how it should work? Or does anyone know how it works? I can't quite sort it out and there aren't too many photos online that I could find...

moonsandals

Not a lot going on lately - mostly been able to enjoy the Jeep!

Since the misfire was fixed, it's been running like a champ. We've taken it almost every weekend to go out snowshoeing, hiking (with micro-spikes in the snow) and even out to a friend's place after a heavy snowfall. It's been great on the highway as well as in the city. Temperature here has been anything from -10C to +15C lately and regardless of temperature it's been starting and running great, with the engine temps right dead in the middle of the gauge. Good power, just where it should be.

A little loud when it's really cold and the idle lobes a bit (but really not that much) in the cold, but once it warms up a little bit that goes away. The only thing I can think of that I didn't test, replace, or repair that could cause an uneven idle when cold are the injectors. I can see how those could cause it but it's not a problem and I'm not keen on replacing them at this time.

Our tires aren't great in slick ice or snow. I expected that, but this year proved it. Got stuck a bit on a gravel road/ parking lot and had to get out. I'll need new tires next fall/ winter once I get back from our extended hiking trip.

I've been working through the list of annoying things that are cheap to fix. I've also been adding to the list.

• Finish the mirror switch mounting and installation [Done already]
• Fix the mounting of the rear hatch interior panel - clips all broke and it rattles now and is annoying A.F [Mostly done. No more rattle but I am making inserts to screw the self tapping screws into since not all screws are biting. More on this in a couple weeks]
• Finish design and manufacture of phone mount where the clock is [In progress! It's taken a lot of effort. It's (surprise, surprise) also 3D printed but total cost will be reasonable and it will get our phone / GPS mounted in a good location for long drives. I hope to finish the design and submit it for printing by the end of the week.]
• Finish installing LEDs in the overhead console. I ran out of LEDs when I upholstered it so the old bulbs are in it (not very bright).[Done now!]
• Under hood lighting
• Install the two speakers under the dash in the stock location
• Install AUX in cable onto the current stereo. [NEW! I looked up our stereo and it seems to have COAX in the back so I bought a cheap aux in to coax adapter to try out. We are going on a longer trip in a few weeks so this will help keep us occupied on the drive]
• Fire extinguisher mounting
• Make the cargo area cover [We have materials but not done yet.]
• Replace valve cover gasket & paint valve cover.
• General cleanup under the hood, replace some conduit and repair wiring if necessary (the shop I just got the Jeep back from has probed all the sensors so I'll make sure the wires are now appropriately protected).
• Repair the rear wiper hose (broken hose) [I've drilled the hole out, but not installed any fittings or hose yet]
• Replaced the sagging rear hatch lift supports. [New! I keep banging my head on the sagging hatch and begging my wife to let me replace them. She said no.. all the way until she banged her head on the hatch and told me to replace them. I'm VERY happy. I got the Monroe ones. For $40 total and about 10 minutes of work they are great now!]
• Cupholders.. I keep flip flopping on this. I want to do it but keep changing my mind of what to do. I might go all out and make an entirely new fibrelglass cupholder panel. [New!]
• Repair the rear hatch lock mechanism light switch - eg the thing that turns the cargo area light on when the hatch is open. [New]
• New tires; at least suitable ones for next winter [New..ish. Also not cheap but they're on my list for high priority]

Picture of Malcom parked as we were gearing up for a hike! It's a really accessible trail head; parking lot is paved and we have to start at a super accessible park area and make our way out to a less traveled trail. This is the day before we replaced the hatch lift struts so you can see the rear hatch is right about the same height as my wife's head...(she's the grey blob. We're both shy!).





We are taking it out in a few weeks for a weekend camping and hiking trip, so I'll be knocking a few of these items off the list if I can to make the drive more comfortable. In particular, the phone mount and aux cable adapter.

We're doing pretty good on our budget for our trip in the summer I think so I hope we're in a comfortable enough position at the end of the summer to get the tires & possibly do the suspension. We'll see. Still hoping I could wrangle some help and space up to do it myself but I'm assuming I'll pay a shop to do it.

moonsandals

So I've designed a phone mount that replaces the stock clock dash panel. We bought one that suctions to the windshield but that's annoying (it bounces around and gets in the way of the cover we put over the windshield when parked in the sun).

We don't have any aux switches (and when / if we do, I'd like to put them in the overhead console anyways) so I chose to use the clock space to mount the phone. It's a perfect location - a smart phone is about the same size as the panel so it fits perfectly. Also it's close to both the stereo (for aux audio in) and close to the USB charging port (where the old cigar lighter is).

I modeled the parts up and am having them 3D printed.

The design consists of multiple pieces that articulate to position the phone as it's needed.

1. Main panel that replaces the clock panel
2. Arms that allow for articulation
3. Adapter that adapts our existing phone mount (that grabs onto the phone) to the arm
4. Our existing phone mount (that holds onto the phone) will be used

The main panel is completely hollow with supporting ridges it for structure. It has a slot in it for excess wire length to be pulled in to take up slack. This is the "C Shaped" slot in the front of the panel. This slot passes to the hollow interior of the panel and allows you to pull in excess aux audio cable or USB cable into the hollow inside of the panel.







Each arm has slots and ridges that lock together to lock the position.
The holes are sized for M5 panhead socket capscrew. The hex shaped holes are designed for a M5 nut to be captured. So the arms will be held in position with the notch features, will be really held together using bolts.



I designed in two arms to give full articulation and it was designed such that the length of the arms pull the phone out just enough so it's not hidden behind the dash (the clock panel is recessed a bit). We'll see how that works when I install it.

The adapter at the very end is designed to snap into the phone mount that we bought at princess auto. The complicated mechanism to actually hold the phone was pretty nice. This is designed so we can put different adapters on the end if we want to attach different devices or different phone mounts. It also lets us take it apart again and use the suction cup arm with the phone mount if we want. So it's not permanent.



This is the part I am re-using from Princess Auto.





So while this isn't the most exciting upgrade it's one I've seen a lot of people try with different designs and solutions. I just thought it was a nice thing to do to make use of the dash space and get this thing into the 21st century. Once I install it I'll post the results and tweak the design if necessary. If people are interested, I can post the design so you can have them made yourself.

XJIrish4x4

Pretty cool idea I mean who really uses that clock anyhow?