Low pro xj (3" on 35s)
CF Veteran
Joined: Feb 2013
Posts: 1,185
Likes: 1
From: Colorado
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
Well I got some birthday money and started working more hours so of course it's going to all be spent on my jeep. Here's a list of some of the updates I'm going to do soon once I get some time
-quick disconnect front door mod
-cut 'n fold rear quarters and bedline
-shackles and spacers for 2" more lift
-buy a tube bender and steel and fab up bumpers
-hood vents
-new cat back exhaust
-beefed up tie rod
-custom metal rear light boxes
-bedline roof
-black out turning signals and reflectors
-ball joints u joints and common maintenance
-quick disconnect front door mod
-cut 'n fold rear quarters and bedline
-shackles and spacers for 2" more lift
-buy a tube bender and steel and fab up bumpers
-hood vents
-new cat back exhaust
-beefed up tie rod
-custom metal rear light boxes
-bedline roof
-black out turning signals and reflectors
-ball joints u joints and common maintenance
Not that I don't love 3" and 35s but my rear wheel wells don't like it lol, if it wasn't a dd I would tub them out, I originally wanted a 4.5" lift with 35s but didn't have the money so got a 3". It will still be lowcog and stout but with a little bit more potential.
CF Veteran
Joined: Feb 2012
Posts: 1,222
Likes: 1
From: Buffalo, NY
Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Potential isn't exactly determined by lift height, by the way.
I just cut the rubber grommet on the inside of the body and I warped up the wires with tape and I just push them through the hole. It takes about 5 minutes to get the doors off and 10 minutes to get them back on ( passenger side is harder)
The door drops maybe a half inch when I open it but closes just fine. And I recommend cutting the top pin shorter and grinding them to points, it makes it wayyy easier to put them back on. And if you can get your doors off with a torx socket then cut them it will be way easier than trying to use sawzaw blades when there on.





