indeepwithajeep

This is my first Jeep and 4x4. I was a big into Vw's before hand but I got tired of chaining up when driving to the mountain. Plus I wanted something with more cargo room for camping and something I wouldn't lower. So I'm trying to keep it freeway and travel friendly (ish..). I've owned it for a little over a year now. There has been a lot to learn so far I was posting an updated thread on another forum, but it's dead so I'm transferring it over here. So here's a long first post.

It's just been a solo build with research I've done online. I also picked up a Hobart 210 MVP welder a few months after owning it for some future plans.


When I first got it:


Within the first month of owning it.. I swapped a relayed wiring harness I had left over from a Volkswagen the Jeep replaced, bought some Hella ecode H4 headlights, cleaned out the engine bay, cleaned the throttle body, did a sea foam treatment (intake and fuel), replaced the front sway bar bushings to eliminate the annoying clunks, picked up some neon injectors, and swapped out the factory stereo.

Got to use 4x4 for the first time!


Got tired of the dummy lights. So my girlfriend picked me up a new cluster for Christmas! I refinished the plastic cover and put it in.



Rebuilt the neon injectors and painted the fuel rail.


My Jeep was running cold so I decided I'd check the thermostat to see if it's working properly. I think it was safe to say no test was necessary and it was stuck open.


Saw a local 4x4 club (Oregon Off-roading) was going to a OHV park @ TSF Browns Camp. I picked up a rear hitch from the JY prior so I'd at least have a recovery point, removed the rear sway bar, and gave it go. Did quite well I thought.





My brother hooked me up with a deal with a shop that'll mandrel bend an exhaust for me at labor cost per hour! He was working for a wholesale exhaust company so I got everything stupid cheap. Ended up going 2.5" the whole way back from the exhaust mani. It was a cold start so I really didn't jump on the throttle much.

I ended up having to get a lift early because there was no room for that 2.5" downpipe! ha

I got a 4" IRO short arm lift, extended brake lines, IRO double sheer track bar, IRO steering box spacer, RE lower superflex adjustable arms, and some bilstein 5100's. Since I was doing this solo I had to get innovative to get the track bar to line up properly


Glamor shot after installing the lift. No rear shocks installed yet because of a bushing mix up.


Then put the lift to the test. The g/f went along with me as well She was jealous how capable my Cherokee was the first time I went off-road. So she bought a wrangler after that.







Made some front bump stops..

Welded up a spacer for the rears to go along with rear leaf spring bump stop plates and got some extended crown bump stops.


Went to go play in the snow and pull some stuck Toyota's (seen in the ditch).


Bored out the throttle body. I left some lip there to keep some plenum effect.


Picked up a 8.8 for $50!


Installed a CB radio for the trail..


Acquired a garage Threw a ZJ fan clutch in there some time after.


Pulled some goodies at the JY... S10 box and a WJ power steering pump.


This brings us up to date. I installed a SYE about a week ago, along with boostwerks TC linkage.

indeepwithajeep

Here's the current to do list (Not really chronological)..

• Buy some new wheels and 33's. I bought the Ultra wheels under the impression they were 15x8" with 3.75" backspacing. Mostly why I bought them was the sizing so i can go bigger with the tires. The Ultra wheels had 30x9.5r15's big horn tires, which was perfect when I was stock and it wouldn't look quite as ridiculous after installing the lift. They ended up being 7" wide so I won't be using them.
I've been thinking Pro comp MT2's.. However I've also kicked around the idea of Cooper STT and BFG Km2s'.

• Weld in frame stiffeners I have waiting to go in. I might pick up some gas for my welder and use solid wire, so it might wait a little longer. I got under coating and seam sealer, although I still need to pick up some bedliner to.

• Upgrade steering. I have a steering cooler I'm going to run in route with the S10 box and WJ pump. While I was ordering the steering cooler I figure it was the perfect time to buy a trans cooler too.

• Rock Krawler triple threat long arm kit.

• 2x6" Rockers

• Lastly, I need to figure out what to do with my rear suspension setup. I'm sitting higher in the back than the front. I want to run the longer part of my shackles for better articulation, get shackle relocation boxes, and plus the 8.8 will lift it even more. So I need to get some different leaf springs before I can get the 8.8 ready to go in. Since I need to know what angle to set the pinion before welding on the spring perches. I've been toying around the idea of using 2wd Dodge Dakota leaf springs. I'll move the axle back 1" and they'll be 3" longer overall.

Once that is all figured out I'm planning on just putting some Detroit Trutracs in the D30 and 8.8 (Also kicking around the idea of a elocker or maybe OX lockers). I'm still undecided on if I'll want 35's.. So I'm still undecided on the gearing. In the mean time I'm planning on getting some 33's and putting the trans cooler on.

RockSolidOff-Road

Looking good! Nice clean start.

Glad to see I'm not the only one with hockey pucks bolted to my rig.

indeepwithajeep

Decided I wanted a place for my 6x9's to sit. So i'm building a cargo rack for the rear. Modeling it from the Olympic 4x4 Mountaineer Rack. I'm building it out of 1/2" and 3/4" electrical EMT conduit tubing. With the tube notcher, conduit bender, and conduit I'm in it about $80 ($270+ shipping for the Olympic 4x4 Mountaineer Rack). I might make a basket for the roof down the road as well.

I picked up the tube notcher from harbor freight. It's not too bad if you have a digital angle finder to dial it in and washers to shim it so it is centered.

Olympic Mountaineer rack:


What I have bent up so far.. I've also notched spacers for the two frames. I was going to bend two 90's for the bottom but it ended up being too rounded. So I plan on notching a tube between the legs so it's nice and flat. I'm waiting to burn it in. Planning on buying gas now so I'll have it for the Unibody stiffeners.

XJBARTZ90

Subbed. Welcome to the forum, im new around here too

RockSolidOff-Road

You may already know this but just in case, make sure you clean the EMT really well before you weld it. The fumes from the burning galvanization are toxic and make for some really bad welds. I found the composite paint remover wheels for a grinder or drill do the best job after many other attempts to remove it other ways over the years. It'll still be on the inside though so be careful.

It does make for a nice inexpensive and lightweight rack. Looking good.

indeepwithajeep

Always a good info to give regardless. The one welding hazard I didn't learn about until a little after, was not to weld anything that has had contact with brake cleaner. I cleaned up everything nicely about ~2-3" from where I'll be welding with a bench grinder with a wire wheel. I also was planning to weld it up outside.

I got some C25 the other day! So I'll be making some progress to get it done. Maybe I'll get to it this afternoon.

RockSolidOff-Road

I just found out about the brake cleaner thing a couple months ago while reading through the fab section and I've been welding for almost 20 years. Luckily I only use brake cleaner for paint prep.

I used the wire wheel too for many years but the paint remover really strips it off to bare metal instead of just shining it up. It's the kind that looks like a really coarse sponge. Didn't realize how much I had left on with the wire wheel until I used that.

Anyway, have fun!

XJBARTZ90

hey man, how do you like the boost linkage? easy install? looks easy as pie

88whitecomanche

Stupid clean xj...loving it...

X2 on the boostwerks linkage...got pics?

indeepwithajeep

It has a very solid feel now. Install was easy. Even easier if you keep the factory linkage brackets. It might
take a few adjustments to get it dialed in. As long as you read the instructions on how to set it up (suggested hole to use and how you want the throw), you'll do fine.

I'll post a picture when I get home later today.

indeepwithajeep

I'll try to get a better picture later.. I've been thinking about moving it to the higher hole location (not pictured) to give it less direct stress on moving the lever which might help with the leverage.

indeepwithajeep

Just a little update on the interior rack. I haven't welded it up just yet.. I'm still working on the load bars. I got back from a week long vacay and it's been 100+ in the garage ever since.

RockSolidOff-Road

Looking good man.

Where's that little welding table from? I have a 3'x5' welding table that I built that is rarely used for welding because it's always covered in parts or other crap. I usually end up welding on the floor or on a sawhorse when the Jeep is in the shop.

indeepwithajeep

It's just a harbor fright special. You can pick them up for about $45 with a coupon normally. I got a lot of stuff there to get me started. Figured by going cheap I'd know what items not to skimp on. So far it's just been the gloves. The welding pliers aren't bad and will get me by, but if needed I'd upgrade there too. Make sure to read the reviews first so you know what you're getting into.

http://m.harborfreight.com/adjustabl...ble-61369.html