Houston Kid's 1999 Cherokee
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Joined: Jan 2013
Posts: 29
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From: Kodiak, Alaska
Year: 1989
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Well, San Luis Pass on Galveston Island for those not familiar with Texas, won on Thursday. I thought the gut was not going to be deep. It was. I ended up with about 8-10" of salt water in the cab and had to be pulled out. I let all of the water that would run out, out. Let is sit for 2 hours. I was able to drive about half way home when the fuse box shorted out and melted.
So, I gutted it Thursday night (planned on doing that anyway), replaced the fuse box yesterday with one from a 99 at the junk yard. It was in pristine condition.
I was able to power up and roll the windows up. Not going to start it until tomorrow. Today and tomorrow all fluids getting changed, new front and rear bearings also.
So, I gutted it Thursday night (planned on doing that anyway), replaced the fuse box yesterday with one from a 99 at the junk yard. It was in pristine condition.
I was able to power up and roll the windows up. Not going to start it until tomorrow. Today and tomorrow all fluids getting changed, new front and rear bearings also.
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Aug 2012
Posts: 583
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From: Clear Lake, TX
Year: 1999 Jeep Cherokee
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
I too love the beach. I could live pretty much anywhere, but I choose to stay by the salt water. Thanks for the props on the build. This door lock issue is driving me nuts. Stay warm!!!!!
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Joined: Jan 2013
Posts: 29
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From: Kodiak, Alaska
Year: 1989
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
ya i was always leary of the water out there, grew up in NC and the phrase the "DITCHES ARE DEEPER THAN THEY APEAR!" was drilled into my head. as far as your locks... at least you have keys, bought mine with no keys (YES its legal NO its not stolen i have the proper title and is registered in AK) so im gonna have to wire a push button start and figure out something to do with the locks. really dig the bedliner inside the cab also!
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Aug 2012
Posts: 583
Likes: 0
From: Clear Lake, TX
Year: 1999 Jeep Cherokee
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
ya i was always leary of the water out there, grew up in NC and the phrase the "DITCHES ARE DEEPER THAN THEY APEAR!" was drilled into my head. as far as your locks... at least you have keys, bought mine with no keys (YES its legal NO its not stolen i have the proper title and is registered in AK) so im gonna have to wire a push button start and figure out something to do with the locks. really dig the bedliner inside the cab also!
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Aug 2012
Posts: 583
Likes: 0
From: Clear Lake, TX
Year: 1999 Jeep Cherokee
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Just got done stripping the tape and plastic off of the wires in the passenger door to check the connections to the rear of the vehicle. They are good. I guess tomorrow I will work my way all the way around checking all factory splices and using a tone meter to check that there no breaks in the line now that I have figured out how they wired it.
Thread Starter
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Joined: Aug 2012
Posts: 583
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From: Clear Lake, TX
Year: 1999 Jeep Cherokee
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Well, I have continuity at all lock actuators so no issues with the wiring. What I have determined is there is no voltage output at the terminals on the PDM when you push the lock/unlock button. I am thinking I got a bad PDM. I am getting a tone for continuity with out pushing the door lock button. I am pretty sure I should not get a tone until the button is pushed.
Last edited by Houston Kid; Jan 6, 2013 at 10:08 PM.
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Aug 2012
Posts: 583
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From: Clear Lake, TX
Year: 1999 Jeep Cherokee
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Now I am at a total loss. I bypassed the PDM completely and ran wires from the battery to the wiring harness that goes directly to each actuator. I then touched the wires to the positive and negative battery terminals. The rear hatch actuator moves, but very slowly and not all of the way out or in. The passenger rear door actuator moving but not totally engaging.
I tested the wires at the connections for the actuators and found that only 3.5 or so volts are making it to the actuators. So, somewhere between the PDM and the actuators my voltage is dropping significantly. What could cause this, a short?
I tested the wires at the connections for the actuators and found that only 3.5 or so volts are making it to the actuators. So, somewhere between the PDM and the actuators my voltage is dropping significantly. What could cause this, a short?
Last edited by Houston Kid; Jan 6, 2013 at 10:42 PM.
Senior Member
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 586
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From: Houston, TX
Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
Power lock issue is now resolved. The harness in the driver's side kick panel decided to short out and melt. Amazing how that will happen when exposed to salt water.
Rewired all 11 wires. Had to cut the harness off on both ends and put connectors on all wires and then plugged them in to one another. Works like a champ now.
Rewired all 11 wires. Had to cut the harness off on both ends and put connectors on all wires and then plugged them in to one another. Works like a champ now.
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Aug 2012
Posts: 583
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From: Clear Lake, TX
Year: 1999 Jeep Cherokee
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
My Jeep makes weird noise when letting off of the gas at pretty much all speeds until the RPMs get down to 1500. If I put it in N, it does the noise not stop until the speed drops to 20 or so regardless of the RPM level.
Any ideas? Take a listen. The audio in the video does not give you the real sound level of the noise or the kind of spinning sound it makes. You can hear a noise, but not the full details.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FqhPe...ature=youtu.be
Any ideas? Take a listen. The audio in the video does not give you the real sound level of the noise or the kind of spinning sound it makes. You can hear a noise, but not the full details.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FqhPe...ature=youtu.be
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Aug 2012
Posts: 583
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From: Clear Lake, TX
Year: 1999 Jeep Cherokee
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
$39 at the JY today and I got a new rear brake light harness, door push pin things (tell the computer the door is open), and a YJ track bar. All installed today.
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Aug 2012
Posts: 583
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From: Clear Lake, TX
Year: 1999 Jeep Cherokee
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
New exhaust tip and tie rod end dust covers.
I had to cut the exhaust to get the shackle relocation brackets to fit. My first cut made the exhaust pipe end and point right at the bushing bushing in the relocation bracket. I did not want it to melt so I cut it back more and put a tip on to point it down.
I had to cut the exhaust to get the shackle relocation brackets to fit. My first cut made the exhaust pipe end and point right at the bushing bushing in the relocation bracket. I did not want it to melt so I cut it back more and put a tip on to point it down.