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Old Jun 12, 2013 | 10:46 PM
  #136  
Lead Foot's Avatar
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From: Lynden, WA
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
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Wells its all my design. We are offering the coilover conversion as a kit now.

Thanks for the link man. I get quite a bit more in depth. I am using this calculator.
http://api.viglink.com/api/click?format=go&key=36ad8bc22d612b2ca8645f59506d61 1a&loc=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.pirate4x4.com%2Fforum%2Fge neral-4x4-discussion%2F1074029-spring-tech-thread-3.html&v=1&libId=9aa6cbf8-7095-4fb7-940d-e4e1e28727b5&out=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.patooyee.com%2Fm iscpics%2FDemartini's%2520coil%2520over%2520spring %2520calculator.xls&ref=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.pirate4x4 .com%2Fforum%2Fgeneral-4x4-discussion%2F1074029-spring-tech-thread-4.html&title=the%20spring%20tech%20thread%20-%20Page%203%20-%20Pirate4x4.Com%20%3A%204x4%20and%20Off-Road%20Forum&txt=Spreadsheet&jsonp=vglnk_jsonp_137 10951590959

Let me know if you have any questions and I can help you out.
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Old Jun 12, 2013 | 10:50 PM
  #137  
XJ4life92's Avatar
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From: Levittown P.A.
Year: 1992
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L H/O
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Originally Posted by Lead Foot
Wells its all my design. We are offering the coilover conversion as a kit now.

Thanks for the link man. I get quite a bit more in depth. I am using this calculator.


Let me know if you have any questions and I can help you out.
oh cool. thats quite a bit better. figured you would have solidworked it all up haha. possibly in the future after i get my head back, and cam done. and maybe some rust fixed. haha. but sooner or later it will probably end up with coilovers
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Old Jun 12, 2013 | 10:52 PM
  #138  
Barrelmaker's Avatar
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From: Holland MI
Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
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I have a feeling this thing is going to have allot more attention now.
Keep it up, I'm saving my moneys for your 3 link.
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Old Jun 21, 2013 | 08:32 PM
  #139  
Lead Foot's Avatar
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From: Lynden, WA
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
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My frame stiffeners will be here tomorrow and I order 8 sticks of tube that will show up sometime next week. Getting closer.
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Old Jun 21, 2013 | 09:30 PM
  #140  
N20jeep's Avatar
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Year: 92
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Ah! You're going to beat me to coilovers!


Looking good man!
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Old Jun 23, 2013 | 12:50 AM
  #141  
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From: Lynden, WA
Year: 1998
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50 Rosetta's down. 110 to go.

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Old Jun 23, 2013 | 07:18 PM
  #142  
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Year: 2001
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Great build. Definitely going to follow this and reach out for more information on your products
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Old Jun 24, 2013 | 11:00 PM
  #143  
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From: Lynden, WA
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So I worked on the jeep some more today. Got the center frame stiffeners and front frame stiffeners welded on. Notched the front truss for oil pan clearance. Got the track bar bracket welded on. Painted all the control arms, mounts, and crossmember. Then assembled everything. Getting excited that it is all coming together but I stll have a few clearance issues to address.



So heres how she sits.



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Welded stiffeners and track bar bracket.



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All the shiny painted parts.



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So track bar/tie rod. Only about 2-1/2" until contact. This will be remedied as soon as I can get some one to trade me knuckles with the stock steering arms intact. By moving the tie rod onto the stock steering arm I will have at least 6" of clearance.



Ride height
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Contact
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Axle truss/Oil pan. At ride height there is about 5" now before contact. This will be remedied by building 1" lift engine mounts.



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And probably the biggest headach to take care of. The lower control arms contact the bottom of the frame at about 4" of uptravel. Looks like I will have to do some notching.



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I also have some slight front fender well contact at about 4" with the steering wheel cranked. I cant move the axle back anymore without hitting there. Looks like a little cutting and sheet metal patching here. Hopefully I wont have to relocate the battery.



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So thats where Im at. Need to do the mods above, weld on rear stiffeners, weld on the boat sides, make the exo cage (tube arrives thursday), make front and rear coilover body side mounts, convert my AC to onboard air, convert my OX to air, run airlines to OX and ARB, and of course other misc stuff that comes up.
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Old Jun 24, 2013 | 11:56 PM
  #144  
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From: Holland MI
Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
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question:
You running your 3 link?
Would others run into frame contact on up travel?
Why not do the inner fender panels like
http://www.tntcustoms.com/Jeep_Chero...er_Panels.aspx ?
With an optima like they show could still keep stockish location.
Just wondering.

Looks great! I'm glad to see you building this rig!
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Old Jun 25, 2013 | 12:24 AM
  #145  
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From: Lynden, WA
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
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Yes, our 3 link. My LCA axle mounts are up higher than stock, so that brings my arms up as well; making them closer to the frame. Most guys on 4" of lift also arent trying to get 6" of up travel. I have a guy running our kit at 3-1/2" of lift and heas never complained.

I dont think I need to cut out that much inner fender but we will see. Thanks for the link and the ideas.

As far as the lower control arms go. I think Im going to put a slight bend in them for clearance. Way easier than trimming the frame.
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Old Jun 25, 2013 | 12:46 AM
  #146  
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Maybe if i give you enough ideas ill see what my dream Jeep looks like haha!
Sounds good, figured you had something going on with those lower arms.
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Old Jun 26, 2013 | 11:11 PM
  #147  
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Got the passenger side boat side notched out and tacked into place. Misjudged some of the needed clearancing to make them fit. Driver side will go smoother. Im still trying to decide if it would be worth trying to seal them up or just put some drainage holes in the bottom of the boat sides like the frame rails have. Thoughts?

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Old Jun 26, 2013 | 11:16 PM
  #148  
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From: Holland MI
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I think drainage holes. Otherwise water may still find a way (Condensation?).
Can't wait to see more.
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Old Jun 27, 2013 | 12:45 AM
  #149  
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Originally Posted by Lead Foot
Got the passenger side boat side notched out and tacked into place. Misjudged some of the needed clearancing to make them fit. Driver side will go smoother. Im still trying to decide if it would be worth trying to seal them up or just put some drainage holes in the bottom of the boat sides like the frame rails have. Thoughts?






I'd personally do a drainage hole, but buy tapping the hole so u can thread a bolt in so u can open it to drain it, but not leave it open to let water in in chances of deep water or mud or just water fling up.
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Old Jun 27, 2013 | 01:26 AM
  #150  
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From: Fort Collins, CO
Year: 1996
Engine: 4.0L HO
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Originally Posted by Lead Foot
Yes, our 3 link. My LCA axle mounts are up higher than stock, so that brings my arms up as well; making them closer to the frame. Most guys on 4" of lift also arent trying to get 6" of up travel. I have a guy running our kit at 3-1/2" of lift and heas never complained.

I dont think I need to cut out that much inner fender but we will see. Thanks for the link and the ideas.

As far as the lower control arms go. I think Im going to put a slight bend in them for clearance. Way easier than trimming the frame.
been meaning to subscribe to this thread, may as well contribute. If your inner fender clearance issue isn't really horrible, I have seen some people just cut some of the sheet metal out, and weld in a concave piece. Hell I've seen one or two rigs on pirate where they clearanced it with a hammer
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