Washington Jeep **** At Its Finest! IS Looking Amazing So Far, I Cant Wait To Get Mine Build This Big!

 

Thanks man. Lol let me know if you need anything to work towards your goal.

1-3/4" too bulky? 1-1/2" tube too dinky? 1-5/8" tube just right.

 

Gonna have to do some slight manipulation to the wiper arms.




Got the front fenders done minus the skins.


Started on the rear bumper and D Pillars.

 

Thing is looking sick man! Keep it up! An make sure to keep posting these pictures!

 

Got the rear coilovers mounted up. Picked up 4 90* fittings but went off the front threads for all 4 which are 1/2", the rear are 3/8". So I need to exchange those, put the bump stops on the shafts (which I think will be easier to remove the piston and valving to slide them on verse taking off the lower mount) then bleed and assemble the shocks so I can get them charged. What fluid is everyone using in their shocks?

Gonna be able to keep the cargo area sealed and useable.









Barely cleared the spring when flexed out. Would't have been able to make it work without the wheel spacers.

 

So just checked and it seems my effective rear corner sprung weight is about 625lbs. Doesnt that seem lower then it should be? Its not loaded down with gear and still got a little tube work to do, but still...

 

About 906lbs front corner effective sprung weight. I should also mention that I only have 1/4 tank of gas, no gear, no spare.

 

So I took apart my coilovers to add the bumpstops on the shafts and bleed the air I let in when adding the 90 degree fittings on the remote reservoirs.

FOAs instructions and all other instructions I find say to set the internal floating piston at a depth of 8" then push in the seal head and wiper cap. Nowhere could I find anyone specifically stating the shaft exposure when doing this. Everyone seems to just be throwing them in *****-nilly. So I did some testing and I found today that it is indeed VERY important.

On an 18" coilover with a 7/8' shaft, there is 10.83 cubic inches of displacement from fully extended to compressed.
The remote reservoir is about 2.2" inner diameter so to take up 10.83 cubic inches, the IFS would travel 2.85".

This is the issue, the IFS bottoms out in these reservoirs at 8.75". When I installed my seal head, I had the shaft all the way compressed against the wiper cap to help guide the seal head in strait. This means that when I pull the shaft back out it will hydrolock and attempt to pull air pass the seals.

SO if installing the seal head with the shaft completely compressed then the IFS depth should be less than 5.9". If installing with the shaft completely extended then the IFS depth could be a maximum of just under 8.75.

Sound right? So is everyone just assembling these with the shafts extended and this is just general knowledge? Thought I would post it up anyways.

 

Alright got all of the cage done I am going to do for now. Got some things to do later like rear tire carrier, slider supports, gussets, ect.







Got the OX locker converted over to Air and plumbed it in. I will probably eventually build a mini skid for the cylinder.



Took it out around the block today after I got the new springs on and I am definitely going to need a sway bar. I picked up this torsion bar from an 86 trooper. Matching splines on each end so I can use the adjusting cams and just add arms to them. about 39" long, 7/8" diameter. Now I just need to figure out how long of arms I need to make and where Im going to mount it. :/



I have alot of little things left to do before this weekend. Here is the list.

Fine tune shock preload
Cap the front of the boat sides
Paint cage and undercarriage
Change rear pinion yoke to U Bolt style
Assemble T case shifter and center console
Mount shock reservoirs
Set steering stops
Do exhaust cat back
solder rear passenger harness I cut through while working on fenders
Convert AC to onboard air and hook up lockers.
Wire locker solenoids and switches.

 

Looking good!
In reference to your sway bar, have you read this?
http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=1090855

 

Thanks! Trying to get it done for a shake down run on friday, then go camping/wheelin for the weekend.

You're such a smart guy. I actually saw a write up on pirate from back in like 2008. I dont remember what torsion bar that guy used but thats where I got the idea. Then I remembered I had a body with an old trooper laying around that was a parts rig; started searching around to see if anyone had used those spacific torsion bars to convert to a sway bar and I came across that same thread you linked.

I want to put the sway bar in the rear since when you are climbing, all the weight gets transfered to the rear and thats when you tend to flop. The problem is figuring out where I can mount it in front of the axle without hitting upper or low links during compression and extension.

 

Looking good Kris

 

Would it be a stupid idea to mount the "sway bar" on the axle, kinda like a hummer? Links going up to the body.

 

I've thought about that more than once. It's definitely a possible option.

 

Why does the anti-roll bar need to be in front of the rear axle?

How about incorporating the bar mounts into a gas tank skid? Arms forward... with end links down to the truss. The arms could be "Z'd" if needed for clearance or ease of attachment.