Cheap Jeep
#61
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Year: 1997
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Thanks, try this link. http://ironscorpion.com/zen/index.ph...8832ecf607c6c1
If it doesn't work. On the left hand side, in the white box area, scroll down to "shop" and find it there.
If it doesn't work. On the left hand side, in the white box area, scroll down to "shop" and find it there.
#62
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Year: 1990 2door
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
Hey brother, I lucked out and found a sound bar at the jy. Did you have to change the wiring harness? How'd you connect it up, cut and splice??? Also we had to pop the rivets holding the light portion, do i need to go get new ones or just use screws?? any thoughts would help. I appreciate it.
#64
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Year: 1997
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Hey brother, I lucked out and found a sound bar at the jy. Did you have to change the wiring harness? How'd you connect it up, cut and splice??? Also we had to pop the rivets holding the light portion, do i need to go get new ones or just use screws?? any thoughts would help. I appreciate it.
Thanks!
#65
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Year: 1997
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Ford 8.8
Went Jy'ing today
After much researching, adding, subtracting, and looking at all my options, I decided to do the 8.8 swap. I thought I was set. Got all the codes for the axles, etc. Found 3 axles today w/4:10s. 1 LSD, 2 open. We pulled the 1st axle only to find it was actually a 3:73. I tried to see the tag on the diff, but it was hard to see, so I went off the door code.
Well, the next explorer, I made sure to get down and dirty and check the diff tag. 4:10 open. Works for me! Going to drop an Aussie in there. I was originally going to do a Lockright in my 8.25, but the Aussie is $100 less for the 8.8. Plus already geared to 4:10 and disc brakes, it's worth the extra work IMO. And the axle ran me $98. Will hopefully be getting to the swap soon. Just need to get my front diff figured out.
Rotors and pads surprisingly still in good shape.
I grabbed the DS too. I'm going to see what my options are to mod this to fit. If it's too much work/money, I'll just take it back.
After much researching, adding, subtracting, and looking at all my options, I decided to do the 8.8 swap. I thought I was set. Got all the codes for the axles, etc. Found 3 axles today w/4:10s. 1 LSD, 2 open. We pulled the 1st axle only to find it was actually a 3:73. I tried to see the tag on the diff, but it was hard to see, so I went off the door code.
Well, the next explorer, I made sure to get down and dirty and check the diff tag. 4:10 open. Works for me! Going to drop an Aussie in there. I was originally going to do a Lockright in my 8.25, but the Aussie is $100 less for the 8.8. Plus already geared to 4:10 and disc brakes, it's worth the extra work IMO. And the axle ran me $98. Will hopefully be getting to the swap soon. Just need to get my front diff figured out.
Rotors and pads surprisingly still in good shape.
I grabbed the DS too. I'm going to see what my options are to mod this to fit. If it's too much work/money, I'll just take it back.
#66
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Year: 1987
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
bring a front DS in when you mod it, and do a hack'n'tap SYE with the same yoke as your front shaft...have them add the double cardan (after subtracting appropriate length from exploder shaft) from that xj front driveshaft to the rear driveshaft and then call it good
#68
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Year: 1987
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
realistically you could probably get a slip-flange adapter for the whole thing, but a spare front driveshaft is usually cheap, that tube looks roughly the same as a stock xj front DS, an SYE is fairly easy and not too expensive, and it increases parts interchangeability.
cheaper yet, you could probably just take the 1310 flange adapter, throw it on a stock front DS's lower end, and then bolt that in with a hack'n'tap SYE and it would be cheaper than going to a DS shop.
IIRC the exploder should have a 1310 adapter but don't quote me on that...I don't know if those are 260 joints on that shaft but they appear so in the pics
cheaper yet, you could probably just take the 1310 flange adapter, throw it on a stock front DS's lower end, and then bolt that in with a hack'n'tap SYE and it would be cheaper than going to a DS shop.
IIRC the exploder should have a 1310 adapter but don't quote me on that...I don't know if those are 260 joints on that shaft but they appear so in the pics
#70
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Year: 1997
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Diff Stuff
So check out what brown did for me.....
Not too crazy about "Made in Korea" tho....
Also, received my Detroit Truetrac about a week ago.
Just waitin' on some more parts and hope to have the 8.8 installed soon.
Not too crazy about "Made in Korea" tho....
Also, received my Detroit Truetrac about a week ago.
Just waitin' on some more parts and hope to have the 8.8 installed soon.
#71
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Year: 1997
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
More stuff
Brown showed up again on Fri..
The owners manual is very detailed and has great info.
And this thing feels pretty beefy
Took out my D30 so FrankZ could install the 4:10s & Truetrac...
..Now I'm thinking of new adjustable control arms.. or long arms... Since everything is apart right now, might as well go for it. Not sure what to do.
The owners manual is very detailed and has great info.
And this thing feels pretty beefy
Took out my D30 so FrankZ could install the 4:10s & Truetrac...
..Now I'm thinking of new adjustable control arms.. or long arms... Since everything is apart right now, might as well go for it. Not sure what to do.
#72
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Year: 1997
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Also, grabbed a V8 ZJ tie rod.. and planning on doing the goferit insert flip.
And sway bar brackets for the new shock mounts
And sway bar brackets for the new shock mounts
#74
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Year: 1997
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
BLACK FRIDAY
So I wake up this beautiful morning to see these on my porch.
Didn't buy them on Black Fri, but I still got a dang good deal on them, and it just feels like Christmas already.
Didn't buy them on Black Fri, but I still got a dang good deal on them, and it just feels like Christmas already.