BUD6770 xj build <--noob
#1
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Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: verona, wi
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Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0l
BUD6770 xj build <--noob
Hey guys, new member here.
I've had my xj for about a year now and absolutely love it! it has been slow progress but she looks much better than when i got her. I only have $150 into everything you see so far (perks of knowing a salvage yard owner ). Anyhow, here's a before and after shot, as well as mod list and future plans!
Before:
Now:
Mods:
30" bfg all terrains
American racing wheels
Brush guard w/4 fogs
Yakima roof rack
Wig Wag strobe lights in factory ambers
Tinted %50
Vent shades
Shorty intake
Flowmaster 40 series
steekars
Plans:
2" budget booster
Home made winch style front and rear bumpers
Home made safari rack (mount and unmount from the yakima)
make some steel tail light guards
Home made skid plates
Before yall say anything, im set on the 2". im only doing mild wheeling and this is my DD.
I've had my xj for about a year now and absolutely love it! it has been slow progress but she looks much better than when i got her. I only have $150 into everything you see so far (perks of knowing a salvage yard owner ). Anyhow, here's a before and after shot, as well as mod list and future plans!
Before:
Now:
Mods:
30" bfg all terrains
American racing wheels
Brush guard w/4 fogs
Yakima roof rack
Wig Wag strobe lights in factory ambers
Tinted %50
Vent shades
Shorty intake
Flowmaster 40 series
steekars
Plans:
2" budget booster
Home made winch style front and rear bumpers
Home made safari rack (mount and unmount from the yakima)
make some steel tail light guards
Home made skid plates
Before yall say anything, im set on the 2". im only doing mild wheeling and this is my DD.
#4
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Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Alta Loma, CA
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Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 inline 6
next step should be to remove the purple "sport" sticker haha but other than that why a 2" budget build? you gonna do it and regret it, go 4.5 you wont be disappointed
#6
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Location: verona, wi
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Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0l
Alright, so i did a little research on both the 2" and 3" lift kits and heres what i gathered. 2" is as simple as adding the coil spacers and rear shackles, boom, done. 3" has an AAL plus the shocks, coils, brake lines, etc... everything you need. My questions are, 1. it seems everyone thinks both the aal and the shackle will cause my leafs to sag shortly after install, if thats the case why do people buy it? 2. Im getting mixed opinions on whether a t case drop is necessary with the 3"..... Can anyone clear this up?
#7
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Join Date: May 2011
Location: Las Vegas, Nevada
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Engine: 4.0L
Stay under 3." no new track bar, hopefully no transfercase lowering or lifting. dont really need new shocks. No extended brakelines, no new coils, no splitting apart the leaf springs to add a leaf which will sag faster than brand new leaf packs and ride terribly because add a leafs are stiff as hell. No trying to loosen the dreaded front leaf spring to frame bolts to get the shackles on.
Simple.
Trim the fenders and run 31s.
Pull off both sway bars and have fun
^^^ my old xj 2" teraflex budget kit. Shackles and coil spacers. 31" bfg mud terrains. Rubbed slightly before I trimmed.
Simple.
Trim the fenders and run 31s.
Pull off both sway bars and have fun
^^^ my old xj 2" teraflex budget kit. Shackles and coil spacers. 31" bfg mud terrains. Rubbed slightly before I trimmed.
Last edited by sandfish88; 08-22-2012 at 02:39 AM.
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#8
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Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0l
Well the reason I started to think maybe 3" is because my leafs sit straight, so I can get new leaves and all the hardware for around $350 plus the chat of a 2" lift.... Or for $55000 I can get all new leafs with a 3". Will going to a 3" really be that much trouble?
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