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See bolded :party:
Originally Posted by Bugout4x4
(Post 3441857)
Without getting into it too much...
- Weaker than tube: Not quite true... 2" thickwall is just as strong or stronger as 2 1/4 or 2 1/2 lightwall round they use, especially at the weld points. Typical tube used is 1.5" to 1.75" HREW or DOM, with DOM being better for exterior use due to it's better resilience to denting, etc. If you're thinking thickwall 2", you're in for one hell of a heavy exo. It reaches a point where you're protecting the body, but adding quite a bit of stress to the drivetrain. One thing I've learned through the phases of builds, it that full body guys tend to overbuild (I've been guilty of it), which in turn is a vicious cycle. The more you overbuild, the heavier it gets. The heavier it gets, the more reinforcement and drivetrain building you need to do. Before you know it, you've got a 6k lb. rig that has...issues...in areas. If you have a whole bunch of 2" square box around, go for it. That being said, there's definitive reasons why you see tube, not square (in applications related to the chassis) in everything from KOH, Ultra4, Comp Crawling, Trophy Trucks, etc. As far as weakness, as I'm sure you're aware, each weld creates a weakness due to the HAZ. While the weld itself is stronger, the material around the weld is weaker (more brittle). Getting the most nodes possible with the least amount of welding possible is what is ideal. Round tubing bends far better, and when bent and conformed doesn't create the stress risers from unnecessary weld areas. Building something out of box will results in quite a few miters, which in turn means a lot of welding, which in turn means lots of HAZ. Bending that size of box...nooooo thank you. - Hangs up on stuff: Anything on the outside is going to hang up on stuff. When it comes to the point of needed an exo, I've seen 9/10 of them get hung of on the exo somewhere. In a few cases, this resulted in some bent tube in order to make it through. When trails get tight and technical, every half in counts. Most of them walked away without and body damage, but not all. If you're talking 2" tube or box, that's 4" wider you've made yourself. There have been several times I wanted my buggy to be 6" or more narrower. All depends on your intentions. - Looks like utter crap: Anything on the outside is going to look odd and like crap. Who cares? it's meant to be functional and practical not eye pleasing. Just like Camouflage paint. :) To each their own :icon_cheesygrin: |
Originally Posted by Freerider15
(Post 3440942)
No no no for the love of god...no.
Originally Posted by Freerider15
(Post 3442110)
See bolded :party:
I hope you might find time to come share more knowledge and experience if you feel like, It would be greatly appreciated. All I can start with in reply to this comment is that yes I do have the material already. And an important point about welding strengths and weakness is a topic others an myself have discussed several times over on the welding thread so it should probably be continued over there. But I think the most important point I can make to defend my concept and choice here is that Jeep Cherokee XJ's are "square" in design and lines. I would be honored if you would care to and find time to please come share more. Thank you! :) https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f58/we...thread-185853/ |
Thanks Bugout, I have been following this Convo, and appreciate the redirect
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Originally Posted by SirCyber
(Post 3442292)
Thanks Bugout, I have been following this Convo, and appreciate the redirect
But it was going detailed beyond your personal tread topic here and I didn't want to clutter it up even more than I already have to date. :) Please come and jump in! |
Ha ha will do. Not much going on jeep wise as I'm on vacation and jeep is 2k miles away
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Originally Posted by SirCyber
(Post 3442298)
Ha ha will do. Not much going on jeep wise as I'm on vacation and jeep is 2k miles away
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Indeed. As I get to each I will start new thread and post link on first page
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Originally Posted by SirCyber
(Post 3442625)
Indeed. As I get to each I will start new thread and post link on first page
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Subbed - Cyber, it looks like you have your work cut out for you.
Roni recommended a pneumatic needler for removing the undercoating when doing frame stiffeners... not sure how well the body underneath all that bedliner would fare, but it might be worth a try in an inconspicuous area. |
wow it's been FOREVER! ok, so updates on The Beast.
rolled it into my old house, required new front drivers fender, new driver door. It's a white door... and my how that changed the look! I went and bought a new radiator, and fried it. got a Cold Case radiator and a Cyclone triple fan setup, Trinity Fan Control module from NickInTime, and it made a HUGE difference. No overheating! Also got Nick's R.E.M. module. Both of these have been nothing short of amazing, his products are spot on. Shortly after that I got Trail Head Offroads cowl induction intake setup, I don't really have much issue at all from heat soak anymore! Rolled it again a few weeks ago, destroyed my rear drivers window. I'm working now on replacing that with sheetmetal, had to reshape the drivers door due to the mirror caving it in somewhat. now need new mirror. I'm thinking about ways to get a camera mirror setup, for all three mirrors. Here in the US, though, they still require regular mirrors, so I'm thinking that I'm going to get a manual mirror, remove it from the casing, and remove the reflective material on the mirror just large enough for a camera lense to peek through, and attach a lense to the mirror. The rearview mirror will be strickly a screen, and then I am going to do the same for the passenger mirror. the screens for driver/passenger mirrors will be inside, dash level. My apologies to everyone who was following this thread for not posting anything for a while, life forced my hand away from a lot of things, including keeping up here. I'm gonna try to be more active again, especially for this build and the suggestions you guys have given me! the fab stuff will have to start happening soon, especially in light of my recent roll. While a roll cage would not have prevented all the damage I got, it would have prevented the severity of what happened. Pictures soon! Thanks everyone! |
Few updates. actually TONS of updates. Lets see... I got a Renix Engine Monitoring system (R.E.M) from NickInTime, *will edit with URL*, it's a super handy device for Renix computers. Also got one of his Trinity Fan Controllers for my K-suspension cyclone electric fan system. This is paired with a Cold Case 2 row all aluminum radiator, new thermostat housing and t-stat, new water pump, conversion to from closed to open loop. I also got a trail head off road cowl induction intake system.
Those are the highlights since my last update, well at least the positive parts. I have added a link in my initial post titled My Jeep was STOLEN. That happened in January. I finally started digging into my jeep and found that I had a D35 and not the chrysler 8.25. The thieves saw fit to destroy my rear end, and severely damage my leaf springs. In addition, my rear hatch glass was shattered, several body parts spray painted, and gas and water is all over the interior. Today, I removed all the seats, I'm planning on doing an entire interior make-over. I'm also thinking about tackling a lift gate delete on the hatch and installing a barn door hinge and latch setup. I'm going to absolutely cut up my existing hatch, and I have access to a bunch of people who can help me make sure the structure of the rear hatch is sound for this. I'm removing the carpeting tomorrow, and will begin the process of removing all the existing truck liner. I would like to take everything down to bare metal and start over, using the POR-15 bedliner bundle. That is going to be used on all interior upward facing horizontal planes (floorpans) and also underbody. I will be using Permatex anti-seize on all bolts from here out, if you guys havent used this stuff I HIGHLY recommend! I am also needing to redo the carpeting, and involved with that I will be doing sound deadening. With the rear end going out, I'm looking to upgrade to a chrysler 8.25. I've looked up regearing and lockers and all that fun jazz. I have a strong lead on what might be an ARB setup from a junkyard from a waterlogged 2000 xj |
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