axekick

Well, I got myself a 98 XJ on a whim. It seems to have been well taken care of. Everything works and I don't see any rust anywhere. The P.O. left many receipts and it seems he had things fixed as they came up at a well known Jeep specialty shop around here. I've had it for a couple of months now and I've yet to find anything to make me regret getting it.

I'll be modding it as I can afford to. I have tools and I have worked on lots of stuff so I'll be doing most things myself. Here's what I'm starting with:


and I'll be working on this starting tonight:


I've got some 4.88s for this (ford 8.8) and the D30. I also have a Yukon Grizzly locker for the 8.8 and I plan to get one for the front as well.

Since it only has 30" tires now (that are in really good shape) I will build this axle then I'll build the front axle and remove the driveshaft until I can get a set of 33s. Then I'll install the 8.8 and the new tires and do whatever trimming I have to do to the fenders to make the tires fit. I think the jeep has a 2.5 or 3" lift now. I'll want to get it a little higher down the road. I'll try to get some good pics of the axle build as I set up the gears and stuff.

axekick

I got a pretty good start in a couple hours of working on it on a work night. Its nice to build on a table.


Its open, boo. It looks like it sat for a while.



Got the carrier and pinion out and the old pinion races.



I use this to remove the old bearings. I don't really need the old bearings since I'm not reusing the carrier but I chop off the cage and use the inner part to press on the new bearings. This tool also allows me to use the new bearings for setup since I can remove them without damaging them. I wouldn't do this so often if I didn't have this tool.



This is my Grizzly Locker. It will cure the openness of my new diff. You can see the inner part of the old bearing on top which let me press the new bearing all the way on. Don't press against the cage.



You might think that the bearing on the bottom would be pressing against the cage but the bearing presses on far enough that all the pressure is on the housing. I continuously make sure i can still turn the bottom bearings while I press on the top ones to make sure I'm not against the cage.

I got the new pinion races in and pressed on the pinion bearing. I added about .003" to the original shim for my first setup. I am also using a crush sleeve eliminator but I think I put the shims on the wrong side initially because the coned from the compression. Apparently the little piece of tube needs to be on the pinion side and the shims on the bearing side. I didn't get the preload set. After I messed up those shims I was too hungry and tired to keep going. I should be able to finish setting them up tomorrow. More to come.

cleenrob

i have a feeling ill like this build

axekick

If it comes out anything like yours I'll like it too!
I got to work on my gears on Saturday. i finished getting them setup. Here was the pattern on my first attempt.






The pinion needs a little more shim. I think I added about .006" to the pinion shim thickness. Here's what I got after assembling it again.






I'm happy with that. I ended up with .012" backlash. I prefer that to be a little tighter but my adjustments kept overshooting so that's what I ended up with. It within spec so I'm cool with that. My carrier bearing preload is nice and tight. I managed to get it all in straight and I had to use a big hammer (with my aluminum punch) on the races to get the carrier in. I actually used every csrrier shim provided in the kit.

I used a crush sleeve eliminator for the first time. Here's what I learned. Don't bother setting it up until your final assembly just like a crush sleeve. Also, and most important, the shims go on the bearing side and the little pipe goes on the pinion side. If you get that wrong you'll destroy the shims. I ruined a couple of mine so I had a limited selection of shims after that. For my final assembly, I got the pinion bearing preload set and it was at the high side of the spec. Right at 28 or 29 in.-lbs. After I put the seal in and everything it measured out at nearly 40 in.-lbs which concerns me a little but I'm not going to worry too much about it since it was in spec without the extra friction of the seal and stuff. At least I know deflection will never be a problem with this axle.

I installed my axles and c-clips just to realize I needed to remove them again since I need to work on my backing plates and the axles must be removed to remove them. The Grizzly locker does not come with instructions and I couldn't even find them online. But it pretty much ends up being like you expect. Remove the allen bolt holding the pin and access plate. Push the pin in. It is only a half pin on the other side so I didn't have to clearance my gear. You push the pin to the inside of the case. I actually used the pin to knock out the plate that covers the access hole. Then you may have to rotate your carrier just right to get the pin far enough in for the axles to slide in so you can install your c-clips. I wish I'd taken better pics of this for explanation. Here's a picture with the plate removed. The pin goes in and the little plate comes out.



So I left it on the table with the axles out but the cover on to keep it clean. I'm going to get the tubes welded on to the pumpkin and start cutting brackets off and grinding next time I get out there. I have RuffStuff brackets and U-biolts already. That stuff is heavy and very nice. They got them to me fast too! I'll do more business with those guys for sure. (cough cough COVER cough cough).

axekick

I'd like to say thanks to Jg22 for the deal on the gears and install kits. I guess there's no way to give positive trader rating or anything in this forum but he sold me a brand new set of gears and install kits for my 8.8 and D30. We made the deal, he shipped them fast and it was all just like I hoped it would be. I wouldn't hesitate to deal with him again.

axekick

I did some light wheeling in the river rocks this weekend. It is very limited by the open diffs right now. I can't wait to get it all locked up and go nuts. I also looked under it a little. I really haven't even had time to get to know this thing. I noticed that it had a JKS adjustable track bar and sway bar ends and some beefy looking control arms. I guess the PO wasn't cheaping out. The CA's don't have a name on them that I can see. I'm starting to consider some 5.5" springs and CA drop brackets to get it up over 35's cheap and make good use of what it already has. What I really want is Clayton's 3-Link based on all the reading and comparing I've done but I don't know when I could spend that kind of cash. Here's a couple more pics I snapped, still just like i got it.

chilly

Grizzly locker works great! Just put one in my 8.8 not too long ago. Good like looking project!

axekick

So my axle is still sitting on the table. I got all the brackets cut off and ground down. It might be a few weeks before I can get it under the Jeep. I don't have much time to work on it. I did just order a Grizzly locker for the front. I can't wait to go crawl around fully locked. However, I still need to find some tires. I don't think I can drive around on my 30s and 4.88s. I'm still debating going 33 or 35s. The price difference isn't huge, its just a matter of whether I can cut enough fender to fit them. After I sink that much into tires I won't be able to afford any lift. If I can squeeze the 35s on now, I'll lift it a little later but I know I can get some 33s on there where I stand. I'll post some pics when I setup my front gears. I'll just have to take the front DS off until I get the rear axle buttoned up. I think I want 35s so I can run drop brackets for my control arms without so much clearance issue. I guess I just need to keep getting everything together and do it all at once, like this:
Build my front diff,
Get tires and wheels (35 12.5 15) on 15"x8" w/3.75" BS
Get drop brackets,
4.5" RE coils (SeriousOffroad has a great deal on these)
Build a bastard pack
Cut fenders
Put it all together.
Sound right?

axekick

I found a deal on some 33s on Craigslist. I know I don't have the list for that, or the gears yet but I'm going to start chopping and see if I can get them to fit.

axekick

The backs went on without trimming. I just took the flares off. I'll trim then later just to get rid of the holes. I had to term a lot off the fronts. Especially in the back side. I also hammered down the seam inside the well. I think I have to get some kind of flares to male or look better. I can also tell that I need some steering beef. I will probably get the jrc frame beef stuff. I'll get some 4.5" springs soon and see how the rear looks after my axle swap. I think I might have caught jeep.

axekick

axekick

I have gathered a few more parts that I'm just trying to find the time to install. My rear axle is ready, I have a front gear set and grizzly locker to install. I just got my RE 4.5" coils and I'm going to go pick up some S10 or durango leafs at a junkyard this weekend. Any advice on picking out a set?

I've been driving around on these 33s now for a week or so. I must say, they do make the steering feel loose and heavy compared to the little 30s. I'm considering the JRC front frame stiffeners or some other option to stiffen up the steering. Also, there are some Bilstein 5100s in my Jeep's future.

axekick

I got the chance to put a few hours in on the Jeep this weekend. With the help of my dad I got the axle mounted up. I used Ruffstuff 8.8 swap kit. I love how beefy it is. It seems like the U-bolts were too small for the axle, I had to pull them on with torque from the nuts and it spread them out quite a bit but I made them work. Also, the shock mounts don't make any sense to me so I ordered a pair from Zone yesterday. I was able to use a combination of the brake lines from the two axles without any problem.

I also put together my S10 Bastard pack. When I took the stock springs off, I realized that they were 1.5" lift springs (Rancho). They have a double main spring and I forget how many smaller ones. I went ahead and made a bastard pack out of it anyway. Looks like its going to get me up there. I'm 6'6 and I can stand under the hatch now. That's the goal.

I started to work on the front but I got grumpy hungry so I put it down. I got one coil out. I had to compress it a lot so I was worried about compressing my lift coil enough. I have the shock, sway bar and UCA diconnected. I'll have to disconnect the LCA and see if I can get some more droop.

Once I get the freeze plug for the sensor hole in the rear axle, get Dad to weld on my Zone lower shock mounts and get my front coils in, it will be time to build the front diff. It looks like the PO got longer brake lines installed so that's good. It has an SYE so the driveshaft is aftermarket but the length is cutting it close (seems a little short). We'll see what happens there. And obviously, I'll have to figure out the shock situation when I'm done. I ordered a D30 front diff cover from Ruffstuff for rigidity to help my locker last. I'll probably gusset it eventually. I need to get a cover for the back soon too. I will probably do that when I replace the fluid after the break in period on the gears.

For my steering, I will be getting a steering brace from Boostwerks. That's the only one that makes perfect sense to me. However, they are supposed to be coming out with a hidden winch mount that also serves the same purpose, so I think I'm going to try to hold out for that. Once that's done I should be ready to start saving up for some 35s!

axekick

I got the front springs on. I like how it sits. However, my shackle angles are straight up and down so I'll have to relocate. I'll probably make my own but I figure they'll probably put the back a little too high but I'll adjust my spring packs accordingly.

I'll be building my front diff this weekend. The grizzly locker is on the table along with the 4.88s and rebuild kit. I also got a Ruffstuff cover to help with the case strength. Hopefully I can get it in shape to take for a spin by the end of the weekend.

axekick

Well, its been a long time since I updated my build. I got the front diff rebuilt with the Grizzly. That one gave me a lot of trouble getting a good gear pattern. I was frustrated and out of time so I didn't take any pics. I didn't make any steering or alignment adjustments after my lift. I think I pretty much finished off the worn 33s that I bought to hold me over. I started reading about it after I was hydroplaning all over the road in the rain and learned that I needed to do an alignment. I guess I thought since I was going from a pretty well done 3" lift to 4.5 that it wouldn't need to be adjusted. The toe in was around an inch. I adjusted it to 1/8" and it drives better. I haven't had time to do caster but since I just ordered a B.Lee 3-Link, I'll set it when I install that. I also ordered some Napier V2 flares to cover the 35" General Grabber AT2s I have sitting on my garage floor. Once I get all that done, I'll probably get either the JRC steering reinforcement plates which I'll build my bumpers off of or the Boostwerks steering reinforcement. So I'll be updating with some good pics soon!