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Another Race Jeep Build SRT-6

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Old 04-09-2016, 12:41 PM
  #31  
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Another update here:

Well went out for some Wednesday night fun, I upped the boost to 10psi, and ran a 2006 SRT-4 Caliber with a tune and open exhaust, close to 300whp. We went from a stop and I had him all the way to 110 he said before he passed me, by the way thats way past the 1/4 mile. Super happy with that, but the fun was shortly ended when I went to launch a again to take some buddies for a spin, I guess the extra 450lbs was enough to make the ol 8.25 rear explode.. The pinion shaft snapped along with some teeth in the rear and #RaceJeep had to be towed to the shop. The next day I found a 3.55 geared rear on craigslist, $200 and a lot of blood sweat and tears later. She is back on the road like nothing ever happened. I am not sure if I like the 3.55 gears as now it spins a lot higher. Highway driving will most likely be avoided as 70mph is about 2600rpm, a little high for my taste. Just figure I'd put that in there as its not all butterflies with this build as things are going to break lol. Ive got a walk around video and a little ride with boost ill post up shortly as well as some other cool videos I took last night,
Thanks to all thats interested
Tony.

Last edited by XJTony22; 04-09-2016 at 12:44 PM.
Old 04-09-2016, 12:46 PM
  #32  
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Hope you enjoy the newest addition to the grill lol, I am also thinking about putting the stock wheels and tires back on for a more sleeperish look.. Also these Vette wheels are a good amount heavier and is probably slowing it down pretty good.
Old 04-18-2016, 12:02 AM
  #33  
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So here is a little video of a few nights ago against a 2014 Fiesta st with Cobb tune and a cat-less down pipe. A car that was trouble back when the jeep was stock. It is a 14 sec car to say the least, Also ran a Built Duramax turbo diesel that I beat from a dead stop by at least 4 truck lengths or more. Also ran a 2016 Camaro with the 8 speed auto and 335hp, lighter than the last model and runs a 13.3 in the 1/4. You can hear the jeep bog on the start so I couldn't get the jump that I needed in order to keep him from passing by at the 1/8th mile mark.
Old 04-18-2016, 12:03 AM
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Nevermind that post, I tried to get the videos from my buddies twitter but its not working, ill just have him send them to me instead. I guess you could go on my twitter account and see if it works like that, I don't know lol I made a twitter just to see those videos. @Antonioe2244

Last edited by XJTony22; 04-18-2016 at 12:06 AM.
Old 04-20-2016, 12:04 PM
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When installing the turbo did you have to do any major fabrication to the engine compartment and did you rebuild the engine or just throw it on the original engine?
Old 04-20-2016, 01:59 PM
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Originally Posted by Gunmetal Pearl XJ
When installing the turbo did you have to do any major fabrication to the engine compartment and did you rebuild the engine or just throw it on the original engine?
No modifications to the engine only wired in the safc fuel tuner and bolted the turbo to the exhaust pipe , stock 180.000 mile 4.0.
Old 04-23-2016, 08:53 PM
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Default apexi wiring

hi i have a m90 on my 01 xj and im trying to tune it with a apexi how did you get it in open loop and when i hooked up the apexi to the map wires the jeep started missing and running rough... also where did you get rpm signal from
Old 04-24-2016, 01:04 PM
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That is weird, are you sure you used the right wires for the map? It should be a Green/red stripe wire, Also the safc-2 has a wire that is supposed to go to the map sensor and one that goes to the map from the ECU side, important not to get those mixed up. The RPM signal I got was from Injector 1 on the ecu. It will be the module of wires that is in the middle instead of the last one closest to the front of the jeep, where all the other connections should be. Also make sure on the SAFC it is all zeroed out until you get an AFR guage to see whats being effected, also you'll need to disconnect your 02 sensor in order to keep the jeep in open loop at all times.
Old 04-24-2016, 01:10 PM
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Update on the jeep, chasing a clutch issue right now, so the ol heep is down right now. Before it broke I managed to get a video of a launch/ 1/4 mile pass on the street with it. Still need to put the stock shifter back in so I can start quick shifting again. I would say in its current state it would do around a 14.5 maybe lower in the 1/4. Still need to heat wrap the exhaust to see what that does in terms of boost. Thats all I have for now I will get back when it is back up on the road.

Thanks,
Tony

Old 04-24-2016, 01:50 PM
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Originally Posted by XJTony22
That is weird, are you sure you used the right wires for the map? It should be a Green/red stripe wire, Also the safc-2 has a wire that is supposed to go to the map sensor and one that goes to the map from the ECU side, important not to get those mixed up. The RPM signal I got was from Injector 1 on the ecu. It will be the module of wires that is in the middle instead of the last one closest to the front of the jeep, where all the other connections should be. Also make sure on the SAFC it is all zeroed out until you get an AFR guage to see whats being effected, also you'll need to disconnect your 02 sensor in order to keep the jeep in open loop at all times.
You do realize that injector 1 only fires once every 2 crank revolutions and is not a true tach signal, it is only 'half tach' signal. RPM/2.

Don't you get a CEL by disconnecting the O2 sensor? Around here that is not legal. Something about 'Federal Emission Laws' or something like that.
Old 04-24-2016, 02:01 PM
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Originally Posted by CobraMarty
You do realize that injector 1 only fires once every 2 crank revolutions and is not a true tach signal, it is only 'half tach' signal. RPM/2.

Don't you get a CEL by disconnecting the O2 sensor? Around here that is not legal. Something about 'Federal Emission Laws' or something like that.
When setting up the safc you make the engine a 1 cylinder and that gave me a prettyaccurate rpm , idle is 750 and recline is 5200rpm , I'd say it's pretty close using that injector wire . And yes it will set the engine light off unfortunately, the other way you can keep the o2 on is by keeping the part throttle djustments as close to stock as possible so the 02 isn't fighting the safc.
Old 04-24-2016, 02:46 PM
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IDK that the safc has an engine cylinder adjustment. Thanks.
Old 04-24-2016, 03:24 PM
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Originally Posted by CobraMarty
IDK that the safc has an engine cylinder adjustment. Thanks.
Yup from 1-16 cylinders if I can recall lol .
Old 04-25-2016, 12:40 PM
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i got the right wires hooked up i tried using 5th injector wire for tach and it started missing... i heard that the buss wire (-) will work... so you unplug all the O2 sensors?
Old 04-25-2016, 01:57 PM
  #45  
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Originally Posted by bassxj
i got the right wires hooked up i tried using 5th injector wire for tach and it started missing... i heard that the buss wire (-) will work... so you unplug all the O2 sensors?
That is weird that it is missing, did you make the connection correctly by cutting some of the insulation off the injector wire and then wrapping the safc rpm wire around the injector wires exposed copper? I remember the instructions saying not to cut the wire completely and then splice them together. I can take a picture of my wiring if you need any more help. And I only had to remove the 1st 02 on the header to make it go into open loop, If you have a diagnostic scanner that plugs into the obd2 port, you can use that to show if it is in open or closed loop. Whats nice is when you go this route you can just use the open 02 sensor port for your wideband AFR guage, rather than welding in another bung etc.

Last edited by XJTony22; 04-25-2016 at 02:01 PM.


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