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I plan on doing the swap after long arms and building my axles up unless I can get one for a good Neal I just wanted to start researching early so I can make the right choices for me
Ya it really isn't that hard to do it just took me awhile to find all the info. And fyi if you don't do a doubler, you are going to have to cut up a big hole in the floor to make room for the T/C too.
Yeah I was Thinking about doing what you did or doing a 231/300 doubler whichever works out better lol but you only needed the clocking jig to bolt it to the transmission? Because the $700 Novak adapter scares me lol
Yeah I was Thinking about doing what you did or doing a 231/300 doubler whichever works out better lol but you only needed the clocking jig to bolt it to the transmission? Because the $700 Novak adapter scares me lol
Well it depends on what route you go. For mine thats all i needed since I needed to get the klune shifter to point up at the right direction. The klune itself allows you to clock the angle of the transfercase. The only reason I went for the klune was because I found one half price used that came out about what I would have ended up paying for building a 231 doubler. With the 231 I think you would need a flip ring not a clock ring. Nw fab has them and maybe some vendors on pirate.
Well I guess it just cones down to luck Dana 300s cost about 300-500 around here and 231s go for about 150-175 so just depends on how lucky I get. Are there any major benefits to the klune over the doubler?
Well I guess it just cones down to luck Dana 300s cost about 300-500 around here and 231s go for about 150-175 so just depends on how lucky I get. Are there any major benefits to the klune over the doubler?
Unless you can machine the plate and shorter shaft you also have to buy a 500$ doubler kit and tig weld the aluminum which will add another $100 if you have a shop do it. Most people use their own 231 case. Shafts also have to be shortened/lengthened.
Oh wow the klune sounds like a better deal. I guess it really just comes down to being lucky. Just need to keep an eye on craigslist
Nw fab makes a black box which is a similar decent option. Whichever way you go it costs a lot unless you can machine all the prices yourself. There are also multiple ways to flip the Dana300. For mine I just went with cable shifters costing about $350 and they look really sharp. Other options include relocating the shift rails to the top which kits cost about 600$ to do or just making your own mechanical shifters. With zero labor since I did everything the whole project cost me around 2500 out the door including little things such as the fluid and d-shafts. I still need to fab up a full skid and rear support too.
Okay well I think I may price it together as I go and spread out the cost over time. That or try to find a 241 out of a tj but I don't think that'll happen anytime soon
Okay well I think I may price it together as I go and spread out the cost over time. That or try to find a 241 out of a tj but I don't think that'll happen anytime soon
Ya I mean it is a pretty sweet setup and nice to have so many options like rear low and front low along with 2 different low gear options.
Hey guys, I am raising this build thread from the grave. I have been living overseas being in the military and all and have had this thing in longterm storage. It will be coming out at the end of the year. Alright let's hear some inputs on what needs to happen to this beast to give it the finishing touches. What do you guys think I should do to this thing?
Lol yea really. Yup I think I figured out the problem with my gas milage a couple weeks ago thanks to a comment on my youtube video. Someone mentioned the donut gasket in between the cat and headers is bad on this video:
I think this was killing the back pressure on the exhaust and possibly affecting O2 sensor readings and decreasing my gas milage? I need to replace it so that's at least an excuse for new high flow headers
Front bumper: The guy who designs the bumpers at Ares Fab is a bro and might be designing a new bumper I asked him to make! I specially requested that he design a bumper that holds a winch under the radiator inside the bumper that looks the same as his XJ Evolution bumper as seen below, but with a fairlead cut in the center for sale at this link: http://aresfabrication.com/?page_id=585
Ares Fab XJ Evolution Front Bumper
What I am requesting Ares Fab Make
Here is why I am hoping he can pull it off:
-Approach angle. This Bumper has amazing approach angle. The reason I did not buy a bumper for so long was because the XJ stock bumper sticks out less than almost all aftermarket bumpers. I can climb near walls with my xj, something my tj and jk friends can't do. Why would I give that up for cool looking fat lip bumper? If I get an aftermarket bumper I want it to hold a winch otherwise it offers nothing much more than looks, because I don't plan on smashing head into anything anytime soon. I am more likely to flop on my side.
-No obstruction of airflow. All those hoops on bumpers and winches in front of the radiator restrict the airflow to the radiator. Yea they look cool, but function comes first then form. Things should be designed to function ideally, then make it look as good as possible.
-Good looks to top it off. With the fold in the metal, this thing follows the lines of the late xj's perfectly. It also sticks out past the grill just enough to look just right. I know they have stubby bumpers that are flush with the grill and might have slightly better approach angles, but they just don't look right.
-It would also be tied into the unibody frame plenty well and securely hold the winch.
What do you guys think? Would anyone else buy this bumper?