Almost There: 01’ XJ Build
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Joined: Nov 2011
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From: Nashville
Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
You my friend have some cojones. My condo HOA would be up my *** so fast if I dropped my tranny in the parking lot. Just thinking about it their hissy fit has me lol'ing. You are my hero.
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 913
Likes: 6
From: Japan
Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 L I6
Originally Posted by fritzthekatt
You my friend have some cojones. My condo HOA would be up my *** so fast if I dropped my tranny in the parking lot. Just thinking about it their hissy fit has me lol'ing. You are my hero. 

Now I just gotta go out there and bolt everything in today permanently.
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 913
Likes: 6
From: Japan
Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 L I6
I have another update. My klune/d300 setup is finally completely bolted in and functional.
Here it is with all the mess of breathers and sight tubes installed:


I went ahead and bolted on the cable shifter mount.

Here is the speedo gear straight out of my xj swaps right into the d300 pretty convenient

And here is the case finally bolted in with the crossmember back on (installed for real this time though-it ain't coming back out). It was a huge pain to get it in this time, but eventually I got it.



I turned on the engine and made everything works and it worked perfect.
Now I need to install the actual cables for the cable shifters on the dana 300 and cut a hole in the center tranny tunnel to poke the klune direct shifter through and figure out how to make it water tight.
I also measured for the drive shafts and flange to flange, the front is 35.5", and the rear is 29". I am going to try and get my driveshafts lengthened and shortened, and if that is too much I may just order some new ones... we will see though. The three I have are 29.5", 29.5" and 31" collapsed. The custom one I have is 35" extended, and the other two are like 33.5" extended if I remember right.
After all that I will have to figure out some sort of protection/belly skid and support crossmember to help support the weight of this pig. Its coming along slowly but surely.
Here it is with all the mess of breathers and sight tubes installed:
I went ahead and bolted on the cable shifter mount.
Here is the speedo gear straight out of my xj swaps right into the d300 pretty convenient
And here is the case finally bolted in with the crossmember back on (installed for real this time though-it ain't coming back out). It was a huge pain to get it in this time, but eventually I got it.
I turned on the engine and made everything works and it worked perfect.
Now I need to install the actual cables for the cable shifters on the dana 300 and cut a hole in the center tranny tunnel to poke the klune direct shifter through and figure out how to make it water tight.
I also measured for the drive shafts and flange to flange, the front is 35.5", and the rear is 29". I am going to try and get my driveshafts lengthened and shortened, and if that is too much I may just order some new ones... we will see though. The three I have are 29.5", 29.5" and 31" collapsed. The custom one I have is 35" extended, and the other two are like 33.5" extended if I remember right.
After all that I will have to figure out some sort of protection/belly skid and support crossmember to help support the weight of this pig. Its coming along slowly but surely.
Last edited by gvns8; Mar 14, 2012 at 03:36 PM.
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 913
Likes: 6
From: Japan
Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 L I6
Here are some updates on my progress:
Here are the 3 drive shafts I got resized. (one extra in case I break both the other ones).

Installed the rear no problem:

The front comes too close to the crossmember though:


But I halfway expected that, so I am going to have to cut a section out of my crossmember to allow it to flex fully without hitting the driveshaft on the crossmember.
I cut a hole for the klune shifter this past weekend:



And I did some more cutting and mounted the double cable shifter in the drivers side for the d300.

Had to bend some brackets to make the shifters point upwards.

And here is the Semi-Final Product:

Now I just need to find a way to seal all the holes up to keep water out, and hook up the cables to the shifters and I will be done finally!! Oh...and I gotta go cut out a section of the crossmember and figure out a skid plate for it.
Here are the 3 drive shafts I got resized. (one extra in case I break both the other ones).
Installed the rear no problem:
The front comes too close to the crossmember though:
But I halfway expected that, so I am going to have to cut a section out of my crossmember to allow it to flex fully without hitting the driveshaft on the crossmember.
I cut a hole for the klune shifter this past weekend:
And I did some more cutting and mounted the double cable shifter in the drivers side for the d300.
Had to bend some brackets to make the shifters point upwards.
And here is the Semi-Final Product:
Now I just need to find a way to seal all the holes up to keep water out, and hook up the cables to the shifters and I will be done finally!! Oh...and I gotta go cut out a section of the crossmember and figure out a skid plate for it.
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 913
Likes: 6
From: Japan
Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 L I6
So here is is what I have been up to the last week or so.
First of all I installed a boot on the Klune direct shifter in order to make it water tight.


Here it is with the carpet covering it.

Next I finally bought a spare matching tire. I got lucky and paid half price for it on eBay.

I threw it on the roof for now until I have a tire carrier.

I also got around to replacing the passenger-side mirror that I broke a long time ago.


Yesterday I also adjusted the caster angle on my front axle in order to get the pinion angle correct and stop the vibrations that were coming from my front driveshaft. I had to sacrifice a few degrees of castor in order to make the vibes stop however it still steers pretty good.
Before:

After:

Then last night I installed my new iron rock off-road 27 inch steel braided brake lines and flushed the brake fluid.



Now I'm just waiting for a stall to open up at the shop to get some more stuff done.
First of all I installed a boot on the Klune direct shifter in order to make it water tight.


Here it is with the carpet covering it.

Next I finally bought a spare matching tire. I got lucky and paid half price for it on eBay.

I threw it on the roof for now until I have a tire carrier.

I also got around to replacing the passenger-side mirror that I broke a long time ago.


Yesterday I also adjusted the caster angle on my front axle in order to get the pinion angle correct and stop the vibrations that were coming from my front driveshaft. I had to sacrifice a few degrees of castor in order to make the vibes stop however it still steers pretty good.
Before:

After:

Then last night I installed my new iron rock off-road 27 inch steel braided brake lines and flushed the brake fluid.



Now I'm just waiting for a stall to open up at the shop to get some more stuff done.
Last edited by gvns8; Mar 24, 2012 at 06:11 PM.
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 913
Likes: 6
From: Japan
Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 L I6
Here is what I got done today:
I finally figured out a way to mount my quick disconnects when they are disconnected. One is mounted to the track bar bracket:


For the one on the other side I had to be more creative. I used a hinge and attached the mount piece that came with my jks discos to it. I also hooked up a magnet to the top to hold the hinge out of the way when the disconnects are still connected to the axle:

It then drops down like this to hold up the other disconnect. Sweet! No more zip ties to hold them up!

I also flushed out all of my injectors with fuel injector cleaner, and rebuilt them with new pintle caps, o-rings, and filters. I used a vacuum brake bleeder in order to pressurize the injectors.

I put the other end of the inector in the cleaner after pressurizing them with the vacuum pump and opened up the injector flow using a car battery.

This allowed me to flush out the injectors with high pressure like a shop would normally do.
Here is a video I made on how to do it if you want to do it yourself. Sorry about the really bad camera angle,but it gets the point accross if you need the instructions.

The last thing I did today that took most of my day was cut out a section of my clayton crossmember. Like I mentioned before, with my klune and d300 transfercase, the yoke for the front and rear drivelines are pushed back about 2 inches. Although my front driveshaft did not hit the crossmember at normal ride height, I tested the flex with a high lift jack and found that the front driveshaft hits the crossmember about half droop.
You can see here how close the driveshaft is to hitting the crossmember:

Here is the final product cut and primed:


I now have a ton more space for the driveshaft.

I tested out the flex again with the modified crossmember and had plenty of room even when fully flexing out the front axle. It was also nice to see my new longer brake lines not being stretched out to their limits at full flex like my old lines used to.
I know the cuts look kind of sloppy, but I did most of the cuts with a cutoff wheel while the crossmember was still bolted in underneath the car.
So yea thats about it. Still need to finish setting up the d300 cable shifters to shift my transfercase, but then I will finally be done with my dang d300/klune V install, more than 2 months after starting it.
I finally figured out a way to mount my quick disconnects when they are disconnected. One is mounted to the track bar bracket:
For the one on the other side I had to be more creative. I used a hinge and attached the mount piece that came with my jks discos to it. I also hooked up a magnet to the top to hold the hinge out of the way when the disconnects are still connected to the axle:
It then drops down like this to hold up the other disconnect. Sweet! No more zip ties to hold them up!
I also flushed out all of my injectors with fuel injector cleaner, and rebuilt them with new pintle caps, o-rings, and filters. I used a vacuum brake bleeder in order to pressurize the injectors.

I put the other end of the inector in the cleaner after pressurizing them with the vacuum pump and opened up the injector flow using a car battery.

This allowed me to flush out the injectors with high pressure like a shop would normally do.
Here is a video I made on how to do it if you want to do it yourself. Sorry about the really bad camera angle,but it gets the point accross if you need the instructions.
The last thing I did today that took most of my day was cut out a section of my clayton crossmember. Like I mentioned before, with my klune and d300 transfercase, the yoke for the front and rear drivelines are pushed back about 2 inches. Although my front driveshaft did not hit the crossmember at normal ride height, I tested the flex with a high lift jack and found that the front driveshaft hits the crossmember about half droop.
You can see here how close the driveshaft is to hitting the crossmember:
Here is the final product cut and primed:
I now have a ton more space for the driveshaft.
I tested out the flex again with the modified crossmember and had plenty of room even when fully flexing out the front axle. It was also nice to see my new longer brake lines not being stretched out to their limits at full flex like my old lines used to.
I know the cuts look kind of sloppy, but I did most of the cuts with a cutoff wheel while the crossmember was still bolted in underneath the car.
So yea thats about it. Still need to finish setting up the d300 cable shifters to shift my transfercase, but then I will finally be done with my dang d300/klune V install, more than 2 months after starting it.
Last edited by gvns8; Mar 29, 2012 at 11:51 AM.
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 913
Likes: 6
From: Japan
Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 L I6
So I got a lot done on the jeep this past weekend and it is finally trail worthy again!!! Here is the final update on my transfercase upgrade:
-I installed a boot on the bottom of my cable shifter unit to make it water tight.



Final Product:

-Then hooked up the cables from the transfercase to the shifter and adjusted them.

-After that I went to a parking lot and tested out the shifters and the transfercase shifts perfectly.
-Finally, I decided to drill & tap holes to install my transfercase skid plate. I eventually plan to fab a fully belly skid plate and additional crossmember to support the added weight of the transfercase, but this will be fine for now.

So yea 3 months have gone by since I first started this doubler and transfercase project, and finally after hours upon hours of work, I can officially say the install is done! :cheers2:
Can't wait to trail test it, I just need to find some people going wheeling soon.
-I installed a boot on the bottom of my cable shifter unit to make it water tight.
Final Product:
-Then hooked up the cables from the transfercase to the shifter and adjusted them.
-After that I went to a parking lot and tested out the shifters and the transfercase shifts perfectly.
-Finally, I decided to drill & tap holes to install my transfercase skid plate. I eventually plan to fab a fully belly skid plate and additional crossmember to support the added weight of the transfercase, but this will be fine for now.
So yea 3 months have gone by since I first started this doubler and transfercase project, and finally after hours upon hours of work, I can officially say the install is done! :cheers2:
Can't wait to trail test it, I just need to find some people going wheeling soon.
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 913
Likes: 6
From: Japan
Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 L I6
I just found out my next base assignment is in Japan! I am so stoked about it. I leave in like July or August. It would be pretty sweet to bring this thing to japan wouldn't it! haha...I will have to look into that I don't know if people wheel there.
What do you guys think my jeep is worth if I sold it? It only has 92000 miles on it. I paid $7200 for it with 69k miles on it and I have spent about $18k on upgrades/maintenance in the last year. I might try for $12k or just part it.
What do you guys think my jeep is worth if I sold it? It only has 92000 miles on it. I paid $7200 for it with 69k miles on it and I have spent about $18k on upgrades/maintenance in the last year. I might try for $12k or just part it.
Last edited by gvns8; Apr 1, 2012 at 04:21 PM.
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 913
Likes: 6
From: Japan
Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 L I6
Haha thanks man I appreciate it. I will let you know if I ever visit up there. I am just glad to be done with that doubler/transfercase install it took forever.
A little update: I went wheeling and everything works perfect. I can do front digs now with my twin sticks so frickin sweet
Driving up a steep rock I was slipping on, I also threw it in double low crawled right up it. The brakes can still stop it too luckily.
A little update: I went wheeling and everything works perfect. I can do front digs now with my twin sticks so frickin sweet
Driving up a steep rock I was slipping on, I also threw it in double low crawled right up it. The brakes can still stop it too luckily.
Last edited by gvns8; Apr 1, 2012 at 04:23 PM.
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Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 2,231
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From: West Springfield, MA
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Haha thanks man I appreciate it. I will let you know if I ever visit up there. I am just glad to be done with that doubler/transfercase install it took forever.
A little update: I went wheeling and everything works perfect. I can do front digs now with my twin sticks so frickin sweet
Driving up a steep rock I was slipping on, I also threw it in double low crawled right up it. The brakes can still stop it too luckily.
A little update: I went wheeling and everything works perfect. I can do front digs now with my twin sticks so frickin sweet
Driving up a steep rock I was slipping on, I also threw it in double low crawled right up it. The brakes can still stop it too luckily.
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 913
Likes: 6
From: Japan
Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 L I6
No problem man I never really knew what a front dig was until I started researching for my transfercase upgrade and decided it would be extremely sweet to be able to do. It requires having the ability to disengage your rear axle and put your front axle in low. I do that using my d300 twin sticks then I put the parking brake on and turn hard and basically drag the rear end in a radius around the left or right wheel. It gives me a super tight turning radius that is better than having rear steering.
To do this even better some guys put a cutting brake on each of the back wheels so they can lock up only one tire at a time and be able to do a 360 degree turn in place without moving forward- Literally "turning on a dime".
I will find a good YouTube vid and post it up in a little.
To do this even better some guys put a cutting brake on each of the back wheels so they can lock up only one tire at a time and be able to do a 360 degree turn in place without moving forward- Literally "turning on a dime".
I will find a good YouTube vid and post it up in a little.
Last edited by gvns8; Apr 1, 2012 at 07:55 PM.
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 913
Likes: 6
From: Japan
Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 L I6
So here are some updates on the jeep.
-last week before I went wheeling I cut my front fenders a little wider because I noticed that the tires were rubbing the front.


-Then I went Wheeling and camping last weekend at hidden Falls off-road park.

I had a great time except for pretty much everyone I went with ended up breaking something. One of my buddies broke his tie rod and his rear axle shaft both at the same time and he had to trailer his jeep back home. Another jeep ripped off one of his fender flairs. And I ended up smashing in my rear quarter panel... Again haha.

So yesterday I decided to do the rear corner panel tuck and fold mod to give more clearance.
Here is the part I had to cut off.



As you can see I have about 8 inches of extra clearance now. I had to trim my fender flares and I think they turned out pretty good.




-I still need to sand them down and maybe use some Bondo to smooth out the side that was smashed in and then repaint them
Then what I plan to do is buy some rear upper quarter panel guards from JCR or THOR offroad, and get a bumper designed to be used with this tuck and fold modification. Either that or have a local shop Fab this stuff up for me.
-last week before I went wheeling I cut my front fenders a little wider because I noticed that the tires were rubbing the front.


-Then I went Wheeling and camping last weekend at hidden Falls off-road park.

I had a great time except for pretty much everyone I went with ended up breaking something. One of my buddies broke his tie rod and his rear axle shaft both at the same time and he had to trailer his jeep back home. Another jeep ripped off one of his fender flairs. And I ended up smashing in my rear quarter panel... Again haha.

So yesterday I decided to do the rear corner panel tuck and fold mod to give more clearance.
Here is the part I had to cut off.



As you can see I have about 8 inches of extra clearance now. I had to trim my fender flares and I think they turned out pretty good.




-I still need to sand them down and maybe use some Bondo to smooth out the side that was smashed in and then repaint them
Then what I plan to do is buy some rear upper quarter panel guards from JCR or THOR offroad, and get a bumper designed to be used with this tuck and fold modification. Either that or have a local shop Fab this stuff up for me.
Last edited by gvns8; Apr 15, 2012 at 08:56 PM.


