When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Currently the WJ seems to have a blown head gasket and some engine shake at idle. i am hoping to diagnose and repair this power train but if worst case scenario happens along, could the 98 XJ provide engine, transmission and t-case?
The transmission and t-case seem to be in working order, but i would be more comfortable with a total power swap if i had to. i dont like mixing parts if i can help it. I am pretty knowledgeable about the XJ's but im not so sure about the newer years 2000 and up.
About the transmission and t/case. Your WJ uses a 42re Chrysler transmission and either an NP242 or NP247 t/case. Your XJ uses an AW4 transmission and either an NP242 or (more common) an NP231 t/case.
The engine in your WJ is a "clean side" block that mounts in the body at different bolt locations on the block. You can fabricate compatible mounts or by now someone may make them, however you may need to remote the oil filter. If you retain all your external parts, manifolds, sensors, and ignition from the WJ, you'll have to fabricate brackets to hold the coil rail in place or use the "viper" coil conversion. You will also need an exhaust manifold adapter to match the exhaust ports in the head to the cast iron manifolds from the WJ.
Yes, it will work, but it's not a simple swap. Be sure to use the flexplate from the WJ and don't damage it when you pull the engine. Leave the converter on the transmission and pull the CkPS before doing anything.
Last edited by dave1123; Apr 21, 2020 at 06:59 PM.
Thanks for the reply! You seem to know a thing or two about the wj and the xj. I own a 96 xj and a 95 yj but I have never really worked on a zj or wj so this is kinda new to me.
This will really be my first big project mechanically wise... Aka power train. I have replaced my breaks, alternators, belts, sensors, and so on, but I've never torn into a motor deeper then the air intake. I know with the right tools I'll be able to do it but it will be an up hill battle.
Can anyone recommend a torque wrench and a good set of sockets/bits to get going on this "adventure"
Year: 1998 Classic (I'll get it running soon....) and 02 Grand
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
Originally Posted by Zusez3
Can anyone recommend a torque wrench and a good set of sockets/bits to get going on this "adventure"
Harbor Freight Pittsburg line is okay. Not great, but okay. If you want to step up a bit, get their new upgraded line. Check their website. They are pretty decent.
I would not trust their torque wrenches, though. Go to NAPA and get a good one, or rent one.
Nothing in the XJ drivetrain is a direct swap into the WJ without modification. Axles mounts are different, engine mounts are different, completely different transmissions, and the transfer cases have different input shafts and tailhousings. For torque wrenches the Harbor Freight ones work fine, I have been using them for 4-5 years, they are still accurate when I test them against other torque wrenches, their sockets and ratchets are good also.
Until i decide what i really want to do with the WJ, I have decided to start working on the XJ. Currently i am stripping the damage and repairing it to a simi-drivable state.
Damage:
Bumper
Radiator -->
Fender/front 25% of inner fender (right side)
Fender flares
Headlights/turn signals
Air bags/air bag sensors
Battery box
Entire grill assembly
Breaks have no pressure/leaking when depressed (Driver side line damage) -->
Cracked windshield
Possible uniframe damage along with minor suspension damage --> initial tear-down. Impact side after stripping outer damage very clean interior aside from missing radio/air bag deployment
Upon removal of radiator, I inspected the uniframe cross member where the forward bumper mounts.
She is a little crinkled up in right impact side.
when I go to weld in the replacement from a junkyard Jeep, would it be better to take the whole cross member off and weld the replacement onto the frame rails or can I cut the damaged section off and replace that section of the cross member thing?
I want it done safely, not half ***. But I do have a lot more work so I’d like to save time where I can.
Yep, it’s definitely got most if not all of the above mentioned items. i ran the vin but no information.
with this new information, it’s full steam ahead with “project protection” it is now my mission to try my best at restoring this classic service vehicle