98 Green Cherokee XJ
#62
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Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L I-6
Just an update on the issue I was having previously
So after finding out it was the CPS (gave diagnostics code) I quickly went to Oreilys this morning and picked up a BWD CPS with lifetime warranty. Quickly swapped them out. Reset the ECU, start up and... Splutter splutter rough idle etc.
Had to get it perfect before school starts tomorrow, so I immediately started taking out every sensor I could. MAP, TPS and idle air valve control. Throughly cleaned the air intake too.
Well... The culprit was the idle air valve control, had massive build up on it. Cleaned it nicely and popped everything back. Had a little hesitant start, but let it idle for a few minutes and all is perfect now! Jeep hasn't ever idled this well.
So I would definitely say the culprit for the jeep cutting out was the CPS, and the rough idle was the idle air valve control.
Attached are some pics:
So after finding out it was the CPS (gave diagnostics code) I quickly went to Oreilys this morning and picked up a BWD CPS with lifetime warranty. Quickly swapped them out. Reset the ECU, start up and... Splutter splutter rough idle etc.
Had to get it perfect before school starts tomorrow, so I immediately started taking out every sensor I could. MAP, TPS and idle air valve control. Throughly cleaned the air intake too.
Well... The culprit was the idle air valve control, had massive build up on it. Cleaned it nicely and popped everything back. Had a little hesitant start, but let it idle for a few minutes and all is perfect now! Jeep hasn't ever idled this well.
So I would definitely say the culprit for the jeep cutting out was the CPS, and the rough idle was the idle air valve control.
Attached are some pics:
#63
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Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
I would reset your ECU.
1. Disconnect the battery by removing the positive battery cable. Remember, the positive battery cable.
2. Ground the positive cable to the negative cable for 30 seconds to erase the electric charge in the capacitors.
3. Reconnect the positive cable to the battery.
4. Turn the key to on but do not start.
5. Turn the headlights on.
6. Turn the headlights off.
7. Turn the key off.
The ECU has now been reset to its factory settings. For the next 50 warm-up periods the ECU will re-learn the engine and driving habits for your driving conditions and the newly installed parts.
1. Disconnect the battery by removing the positive battery cable. Remember, the positive battery cable.
2. Ground the positive cable to the negative cable for 30 seconds to erase the electric charge in the capacitors.
3. Reconnect the positive cable to the battery.
4. Turn the key to on but do not start.
5. Turn the headlights on.
6. Turn the headlights off.
7. Turn the key off.
The ECU has now been reset to its factory settings. For the next 50 warm-up periods the ECU will re-learn the engine and driving habits for your driving conditions and the newly installed parts.
#65
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Location: Nebraska
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Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
I would reset your ECU.
1. Disconnect the battery by removing the positive battery cable. Remember, the positive battery cable.
2. Ground the positive cable to the negative cable for 30 seconds to erase the electric charge in the capacitors.
3. Reconnect the positive cable to the battery.
4. Turn the key to on but do not start.
5. Turn the headlights on.
6. Turn the headlights off.
7. Turn the key off.
The ECU has now been reset to its factory settings. For the next 50 warm-up periods the ECU will re-learn the engine and driving habits for your driving conditions and the newly installed parts.
1. Disconnect the battery by removing the positive battery cable. Remember, the positive battery cable.
2. Ground the positive cable to the negative cable for 30 seconds to erase the electric charge in the capacitors.
3. Reconnect the positive cable to the battery.
4. Turn the key to on but do not start.
5. Turn the headlights on.
6. Turn the headlights off.
7. Turn the key off.
The ECU has now been reset to its factory settings. For the next 50 warm-up periods the ECU will re-learn the engine and driving habits for your driving conditions and the newly installed parts.
Highly recommended when changing out components that effect how she/he/it, runs. You want it to remember those good times.
#66
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Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L I-6
I would reset your ECU.
1. Disconnect the battery by removing the positive battery cable. Remember, the positive battery cable.
2. Ground the positive cable to the negative cable for 30 seconds to erase the electric charge in the capacitors.
3. Reconnect the positive cable to the battery.
4. Turn the key to on but do not start.
5. Turn the headlights on.
6. Turn the headlights off.
7. Turn the key off.
The ECU has now been reset to its factory settings. For the next 50 warm-up periods the ECU will re-learn the engine and driving habits for your driving conditions and the newly installed parts.
1. Disconnect the battery by removing the positive battery cable. Remember, the positive battery cable.
2. Ground the positive cable to the negative cable for 30 seconds to erase the electric charge in the capacitors.
3. Reconnect the positive cable to the battery.
4. Turn the key to on but do not start.
5. Turn the headlights on.
6. Turn the headlights off.
7. Turn the key off.
The ECU has now been reset to its factory settings. For the next 50 warm-up periods the ECU will re-learn the engine and driving habits for your driving conditions and the newly installed parts.
#69
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Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L I-6
Most current poser pics. Wheel clearance still an issue so cutting will have to be done soon
Oh, also put a little flag on the CB antenna
Oh, also put a little flag on the CB antenna
#70
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Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L I-6
Hit 255 555 miles today on the Jeep, and still running like a beast. Always impressed about these 4.0's
Also drove in the rain today, which I haven't done since owning the Jeep!
Also drove in the rain today, which I haven't done since owning the Jeep!
#72
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Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Looks great. How the heck did you "quickly" change that crank shaft sensor??? I need to do mine and looking at where the thing is I'm not sure I can get to it.
#74
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Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L I-6
So been wheeling the Jeep as is for the last few months. No major changes besides regular maintenance. Replaced starter motor, another CPS, new battery and added hood louvers. Have some big plans coming up in the next few months:
- 5 inch lift with long arms
- Durango box upgrade with unibody tie ins and bracket, pitman arm drop
- 4.7L Stroker build and swop
- Front and Rear bumpers
- New seats
- Rebuild AC compressor
- Heavy duty steering rod
Attached are some pics of the last few months
- 5 inch lift with long arms
- Durango box upgrade with unibody tie ins and bracket, pitman arm drop
- 4.7L Stroker build and swop
- Front and Rear bumpers
- New seats
- Rebuild AC compressor
- Heavy duty steering rod
Attached are some pics of the last few months
#75
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Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L I-6
Just ordered front Timken wheel hub assemblies, new brakes, calipers, rotors and sway bar bushings, so I will be busy with that this weekend. Will update with pics once started