The pinch weld needs to be finessed flat.



Foil wrap anything you dont want to become melted or on fire.



As long as your system is sealed you will only lose about a 1/4 cup of coolant when installing the coolant feed line. This is a good time to flush the block if you've never done it.






Take out the oil pressure sending unit.



Install the tee.



Install the npt to AN fitting.



Attach the turbo feed line and reinstall the oil pressure sending unit.



Drill into the flattest part of the pan as high as you can get it. The oil coming oit of a turbo is super heated and a whipped consistency. If the drain is below the oil level in the sump it will not readily empty into the pan. This will cause back up into the turbo center section and one heck of a smoke show.

Im going to try a weldless option on the oil return and see how that turns out.

 

Keep it up

 

Time to scrape some of the intake gunk out. Meth will clean up the rest.

...

Perfect time to install some new motor mounts to handle the extra torque.

Slide the through bolt back in from the rear for more clearance for the intake.

Prop the turbo assembly up on the motor mount and install the lower coolant feed line then install the upper coolant return line.

From this position drop the turbo assembly with the #6 runner against the transmission bell housing and access the 3 downpipe bolts from under the vehicle.

 

Ensure the oil return is tight.

Install the stock upstream o2 sensor and the wideband sensor.

Route the wideband and boost reference into the cabin anyway you like. I put it through this firewall seal.

Attach the oil feed line before installing the intake manifold. Be sure to install the intake hose and hot charge pipe.

Attach the oil feedline on the turbo and then route it through the hole in the intake manifold.

Install the rail and accessories.

Waiting for a 62mm TB...

Make a spot for the intercooler.

 

 

 

Is it done yet?

 

Nope. I'm waiting for my TB to come back from machining. Also gotta balance work and family time.


Cut the return line from the liquid to liquid cooler to run to the air to liquid cooler.

Gauges?

Boost, AFR and trans output temp.

 

Gauges with power. That trans temp might get annoying.

 

Time to mark where you will tie in the turbo hot coolant return.

I plumb it into the heater core inlet so i can have cabin heat quickly in the winter. This configuration also allows a thermal cycle of coolant after a hot shut down.

If you havent already, put oil in the crankcase!

Fit all of the vacuum lines. Be sure to pull the fuel pump fuse while cranking for the initial start. Once pressure is seen on the gauge this indicates all journal bearings have been primed. This means the turbo bearings will be primed as well.

 

Getting close to organized.

Replacing the bosch plugs that had been installed by the previous owner.

Champion 344s are what you want to use.

 

Install the trans temp sensor in the hot line.

 

Drove it around a little to find the issues. Radiator cap leaks. I could probably just replace it but its a good idea to tell the wife the whole thing is shot.

Next piece to get figured out is the exhaust. It is currently straight piped from the turbine housing. I don't think my neighbors will tolerate me much longer.

 

For those trips through New Jersey.

Oil catch can positioned to help pull the oil vapors out of the CCV.

 

Heres some 1.5" spacers

Some 6.5mm caster plates.


Low, 4x4, red ebay mudflaps, wheel spacers, turbocharged.




I patched in a speeduino. Had some spare time i guess.



Ive been slacking lately but here is some stuff.