Looks like a leaky injector...Unless there's anything else that can make it go super rich at idle and be OK at speed...
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/rN...P4k=w640-h0-noClick for full res https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/kF...rHY=w640-h0-noClick for full res https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/lD...Iec=w640-h0-noClick for full res https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/rE...We8=w640-h0-noClick for full res |
Have you cleaned your IAC?
|
Originally Posted by Basslicks
(Post 3363701)
Have you cleaned your IAC?
|
Originally Posted by rcguymike
(Post 3363733)
A few months ago. I've been contemplating just replacing it anyways but they're like $90...
|
Originally Posted by Basslicks
(Post 3363757)
I would check your leaky injector theory first. Thing of it is though, if it is a leaky injector, it will leak all the time. I.E. when you shut it off, it will leak out fuel into the intake plenum. Do you notice if it's hard to start or a lot of black smoke when you first start it?
|
Originally Posted by rcguymike
(Post 3363946)
Usually starts pretty quick, but it's usually parked in the garage overnight. Wonder if it just leaks past a certain PSI...?
Try running it for a little bit, then shutting it off for about 5 minutes and starting it up again and see what you get. |
Originally Posted by Basslicks
(Post 3364055)
Well, your fuel rail should be holding PSI for quite a while once the Jeep is shut off. So if that's the case, then it would leak down out of the injector rather quickly. Of course, if you're letting it sit overnight before starting it again, most of it may be evaporating out.
Try running it for a little bit, then shutting it off for about 5 minutes and starting it up again and see what you get. Edit: and the seller on eBay I got my injectors from is sending me a new set, I just have to send mine back once I swap them. Something I noticed is I don't have the clips that hold them to the fuel rail, should I have those or does it not really matter? |
Originally Posted by rcguymike
(Post 3365916)
Haven't driven it in a while, been working from home helping with the new babe, had to run to town to restock and when I ran into the pharmacy and back out it started seemingly normal. Now that I think about it has lately been shuddering on startup a bit. Occasionally when I first take off from work it'll start accelerating but then as I give it more gas to get up the hill it kinda chokes for a second before taking off.
Edit: and the seller on eBay I got my injectors from is sending me a new set, I just have to send mine back once I swap them. Something I noticed is I don't have the clips that hold them to the fuel rail, should I have those or does it not really matter? |
Swapped in my warranty replacement injectors, reset the ECU fuel maps, and did wires, cap and rotor while I was in there.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/qY...AVM=w640-h0-noClick for full res https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/G0...J5o=w640-h0-noClick for full res Crispy https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/uQ...84o=w640-h0-noClick for full res https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/Qp...AvY=w640-h0-noClick for full res Rubs off with finger nail. https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/eB...OVE=w640-h0-noClick for full res https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/SV...wVc=w640-h0-noClick for full res https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/3I...M-Q=w640-h0-noClick for full res Still reading pretty negative on the long term fuel trim. Do the 4 hole injectors pass much more fuel to make the LTFT go really negative? |
Originally Posted by Basslicks
(Post 3263167)
Right on... you know how some people get precious about their sheet metal n flares ;)
Originally Posted by rcguymike
(Post 3369695)
Still reading pretty negative on the long term fuel trim. Do the 4 hole injectors pass much more fuel to make the LTFT go really negative?
Also finally got the XJwonders battery cables put on. |
worn down 31's fit...barely. I think the helper struts are bottoming out before the bump stops otherwise they probably wouldn't fit.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/Rk...b_I=w640-h0-noClick for full res https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/2r...hZw=w640-h0-noClick for full res https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/Ug...aPU=w640-h0-noClick for full res https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/tO...yYs=w640-h0-noClick for full res |
Get some extended bump stops and you'll be able to fit brand new 31's under there. And if you get a little bit longer shocks, once it hits the bump stop, it will "push" the other side down even further (fulcrum and lever).
|
Originally Posted by Basslicks
(Post 3375429)
Get some extended bump stops and you'll be able to fit brand new 31's under there. And if you get a little bit longer shocks, once it hits the bump stop, it will "push" the other side down even further (fulcrum and lever).
|
Originally Posted by Basslicks
(Post 3375429)
Get some extended bump stops and you'll be able to fit brand new 31's under there. And if you get a little bit longer shocks, once it hits the bump stop, it will "push" the other side down even further (fulcrum and lever).
Originally Posted by s14unimog
(Post 1580111)
This is what I did for mine. '97 model siting at 4.5" / 32's / stock flares. No rubbing anywhere. It's a mitered piece of 2x2x0.188 tubing ~ 4.5" Lg, capped with 0.125" plates and welded to my factory leaf retainer plates. My shocks are from my previous 3" lift, I will further exploit my down travel with new shocks once I build upper eyelet mounts for the front and raise my rear lower mounts.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v7...3-07-11006.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v7...RTIramp001.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v7...RTIramp002.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v7...3-05-11022.jpg |
^^Exactly!!!!
|
All times are GMT -5. The time now is 04:33 AM. |
© 2024 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands