Basslicks

meh.... whichever

On a chopper, rake is with the front end is way out in front and sits up a little higher... the rear end is low.

Just assumed it was referred to the same way in cars n trucks.

adamk

I hate the rear being lower. It's like that right now because my spare tire(160 lbs) was back there. Having the rear raked a little higher than the front looks much much better in my opinion. I still have adjustment in the rear to bring it up another inch

Basslicks

Yeah, I agree. Mine is sagging a bit in the rear since I took the overload leaf out. It's a thick, flat leaf so it does nothing for the arch of the pack until you put a heavy load on the rear, but it inhibits flex severely so I took it out. Unfortunately, that leaf is 1/2" thick so it takes a little bit of height out once you remove it. I've got a set of shackles I'm going to throw in once I get the chance though.

adamk

Went to the Uwharrie Jamboree and worked the event with TJC. I sold off some small parts that have been collecting dust. I didn't do any wheeling opening weekend. I'm not a fan of mud so I let others have at it out there. I was driving home last week when death wobble decided it wanted to play a game. I couldn't get over 30 mph without getting it. Dove into that issue at lunch today and found a plethora of issues.

Here's the list:
Passenger side heim bolt came loose - check that off as fixed
Play in steering box - play between worm gear and sector shaft
Play in joints of steering arm between column and box - JY replacement will be fine for now
Track bar bushing is toast
Torn welds on frame side track bar bracket - this is an RE bracket bolted to frame. Bolts are still tight but has started ripping one of the welds. Plan is to take it off and repair it.

Pretty much I have a good bit of work ahead of me. I'm hoping to tighten up the slop in the steering box without having to remove it. I'll get pics of the TB bracket once I get it pulled tonight/tomorrow.

adamk

Yesterday I got the track bar mount pulled. I found the welds ripping on both sides of the mount. I also noticed that it was only welded on the exterior and not the interior. I had a buddy check his mount and his was fully welded inside and out. I guess I just got one that missed a step in the assembly process. Oh well. I then took it over to Yates Speed Shop, cut the bracket up, ground it down, and then welded it all back up. I made sure to weld it inside and out. I'm also planning to make a brace very similar to RE's one they sell for their track bars.

Basslicks

That intermediate shaft (between the gear box and steering column) has a vulcanized rubber bushing. After age, it will de-vulcanize and cause that slop. You can weld the "stops" in place on it which will prevent you from having to replace it at all.






Man those are pretty welds.

adamk

Oh really? I've never pulled it out so I haven't fully inspected it. That's good info!

Thanks!

Basslicks

You'll know it if it de-vulcanized... there'll be a dead spot in your steering wheel that will feel like it's not connected to anything at all until the exhaust warms up the rubber bushing and metal around it - then it will be tight-ish again.

Desertfox1023

WOW! You just described the exact scenario my jeep has with the play in it's steering. I couldn't account for why it did that, Thought it may have been the pump.

Basslicks

Yup, I had no idea that's what was going on until I pulled the shaft out to replace it. Now that I know, I won't worry about replacing one ever again... just weld up the tabs and be done with it. Good thing about that "fix" is that if your welds break, you don't lose steering... you just lose "tight" steering.

onlyinajeep726

Basslicks... you have just made a light bulb clicked on for me too! About to go check mine and weld it if need be. Thanks!!!!

Basslicks

lol... maybe I should make that a writeup. Seems like a lot of people are experiencing this problem.

Sorry about your thread, Adam.

adamk

After a lot of searching, I came up empty handed on a replacement bushing for the track bar that would work with a 3/4" bolt. I ended up just ordering a RE replacement bushing and planned to drill it out. While I waited for it to show up, I made a sleeve from some scrap steel we had at work. I machined it to a 1" OD and 3/4" ID. I was going to use 1" .120 wall DOM but the issue with that is the .010" slop that would be between the sleeve and the bolt. The bushing showed up Saturday so I got it machined out for the 1" sleeve and assembled it all today at lunch. I also picked up a new bolt and nylock. The plan is to weld the nylock to the axle mount for the track bar and thread the bolt into the axle side mount. This will put the head of the bolt facing the steering and give me some more clearance between the bolt and the tierod. I should have all this done tomorrow and will get pics then.

adamk

I got the track bar on last night. Because the front is stretched, I couldnt get a socket on the track bar mount bolts next to the coil. My solution was the jack the front end up and let the coils droop out of the way. Worked great.

Also, I decided it was a good time to start to finish this hybrid cage that needs to get done. I had some scrap 1.75" .120" DOM laying around that was just long enough for the rear interior. I can't call it a D pillar because the jeep is a 2 door and I can't call it a C pillar because its not close enough to the rear hatch so the joke of the night was I was making a B and a half pillar.

I'll get more pics this afternoon.

adamk

Still more bracing to do but its moving along.