Teaser. Detailed pics to come tomorrow

 

There is still a decent list of things to get done before I can take it for a shake down run. I did drive it 30 miles from the shop to my apartment. Let's just say that was quite the experience. The rear tires are so out of balance(because they have been cut) that the rear was basically jumping down the highway and not having rear shocks only made it worse. I never got above 55 mph. I have also driven around town a little today. Got some death wobble because of the tires being so out of balance. Plan is to find a cheap set of military's to throw on until I have the cash for another set of TSLs. The wheel base came out to 106". Drip rail height is a little tall at 73.5" but the belly height is pretty good at 22". But here is my to do list:

Cut and fold rear quarters(possibly tub depending on flex tests)
Traction bar
4* rear leaf shims(perches were already welded when I bought the axle and set up for the PO's rig)
New rear driveshaft as the one I have is too short
Rear shock mounts and mount shocks
Replace leaking pinion seal
Replace bad wheel stud
Replace steering bolts with Grade 8 hardware
Make sway bar mounts
Alignment
New tires so that they can be balanced

Now on to the pics.

 

I see you made it outside yesterday to flip the steering.
Angles look much better, did the bump steer go away?

Did you check the drive shaft we pulled for fitment?

 

There is still a little bump steer but that's because the angles aren't perfect. The drive shaft we pulled is actually shorter than the ones I have so next time I'm going to measure the drive shaft before we pull it instead of trusting what I read online haha.

 

Well Dang... At least it's a spare.
Maybe have Olivers Rebuild that one for you so it doesn't take the Jeep Down.

 

Got a little more work done over the past couple days. I replaced the rear pinion seal, installed new longer axle breather lines, and cut and folded the rear quarters. I did a mini flex test and wasn't very happy. Because of the new C bushings, the rear flexs much faster than the front. I believe over time these bushings will get broken in and allow the front to flex better. I have also decided I'm going to push the rear axle forward an inch. This will allow my rear driveshaft to be happy, keep me from tubing the rear, and allow me to mount the driver rear shock behind the axle tube so that it leaves plenty of room for the traction bar that I'm ordering tomorrow. Anyways, on to the pics...

 

Well aren't you just MISTER overachiever!!! lol... great progress made man, glad to see the tons on there....

oh and good luck w/ COTM

 

The bushings will break in and it'll be good to go.
Now we just need to move that rear forward a little bit then get it bumped stopped right.

 

Yup. I've already got ideas for the rear bump stops.

 

Traction bar kit was ordered today from Barnes 4wd. If anyone is looking for builder/fab parts, go check them out. They have fantastic customer service, all of my orders have shipped same day, the products are top notch, and prices are very reasonable.

I also ordered a set of 4* shims for the rear axle. I already have one set but because of the way the perches are designed, the spring plate needs to stay parallel to the perch to avoid stress concentrations on the bolt heads. This axle already had the perches welded on when I bought it so that's why I need to shims to correct my pinion angle. I will be installing one shim under the spring to bring the pinion up, and then another on top of the spring, but facing the opposite direction so that the spring plate stays parallel.

 

I've heard good things about Barnes.

Never seen plates that have to stay parallel with the perches, that's interesting... so are you not using U-Bolts then?

 

No. I'm using ruff stuff 2+ perches. The bolts thread into the perch

 

I hope those welds hold up really well. Part of the appeal of U-bolts (to me anyway) are the added security of holding the axle on.

She's coming along, though! Can't wait to see this in person.

 

They held up through one rig so I think they should hold up on mine.

 

Got some more work done this past weekend. I repainted the lower quarters, rear bumper and front skid. I then got grade 8 bolts installed in the steering, dropped the tierod to under the knuckle to help with my drag link to make it parallel to the track bar. I also got the front skid reinstalled. I've got roughly .25" of clearance between it and the drag link at full lock either way.

I still have to align the front, install a new sleeve in the track bar bushing, and throw some BB's in the tires to balance them. The traction bar parts should come in today and the axle shims tomorrow.

Ignore that the rear is sagging. It's both my terrible photography skills and the fact there are a ton of spare parts loaded in the back.