Hey evguy -
How is the undercoat treatment you did is holding up? I've been trying to figure out what the best way to prevent rust on my Jeep when I do the engine swap and have heard so many mix reviews of different methods it's crazy.
Thanks

 

He doesn't have winter in his part of the world lol.

Rubberized undercoating is great for keeping crap off, but will dry eventually, and if rust gets behind it, moisture is trapped. It's good to apply to a clean surface, put it on thick, and touch it up every few years.

XJs have a lot of hidden areas that pool moisture. The only way to treat them is with oil that gets sprayed inside the frame, rockers, pillars, sills, etc.

 

So far it looks new under there but as Salad says we don't get much of a winter so very little salt gets put on the roads.
The sand blasting and Rustmort (rust converter) are the best starting point.
No mater what you use as a top coat if it goes over existing rust you have already lost the battle.
I don't like undercoat as it traps any moisture in so any water that gets into cavities and seams is trapped till it rusts its way out.
So: sand blast, epoxy primer and topcoat. Zero Rust is a good product if applied properly. Then spraying in a good wax/oil based rust preventative to all seams and cavities will greatly extend the life of the vehicle.
Remove all the interior and spray that S..t everywhere.
It should be dripping out the underside of the jeep for a while after application.
The Jeep has to be moisture free before doing any of this.
We actually manufacture trucks here and this is how we treat every truck.

 

Thank you both! I only need it to last one North Dakota winter and then I am moving to CO or AZ I think, no matter what I'll be outta here. I'll look into what you suggested, from what I can tell the underside has no rust - I'm sure there is some but it will be treated or cut out like the tumor it is.

 

so how much would you charge me to build me one of these haha great build man. been looking into doing this swap myself. I've might of missed it somewhere just read the whole tread but what transmission did you use? ax-15?

 

If you have to ask then you cant afford it. ;<)
The stock trans for the 2000 XJ is the NV3550 which is what I used.
My old 93 ZJ that I swapped in an Isuzu diesel 12 years ago is running the AX15 with no problems.

 

EVguy,

I had a question about the 2.8L isuzu motor you put into the ZJ.

How hard was it to source the parts for it(motor, Exhaust manifold)?

 

[QUOTE="evguy;3226371"]If you have to ask then you cant afford it. ;

you're right I don't have the money but I do have a good bew laying around and one day ill do the swap and off the top of your head to you know if the alh can bolt up to the adapter you make?

 

Yes the BEW and ALH have the same bolt pattern so our adapter and motor mounts fit.
They also fit the newer 2L engines.

 

What is the best solution for a rattly NV3550?
I have read the 3550 is a bit rattly but its embarrassing when in neutral.
Way louder then the diesel!
Rebuild the 3550 or swap in an AX15?

 

Either swap in the terminator 3550 or just keep it simple with an ax15...
I've read that the 3550 sound like a box of marbles at idle...but they are strong, also picky on fluids....

 

use the ax15. It's strong and with good care, it can last really long time

 

Yup ive seen plenty run 300k+

 

I may have missed it, but that kind of mileage are you seeing so far (city, highway, mixed)?

 

Sorry but I have not got any numbers, just driving it.
Still have the big TDI grin as its so much fun to drive.
Still rolls some coal when you put your foot into it so we are going to play with tuning a bit.
It has to be over 30mpg, its my wife's DD and she is out everyday.
With the 4L she had to fill up once a week and now its less then twice a month.
The Jeep comes off the road next week for the summer when she drives her electric Beetle.
The Jeep will get new gears (4:11) and WJ front seats.

I have now sold a couple dozen of the TDI adapters so this conversion is getting more popular.