1999 wagoneer d44
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Model: Cherokee
1999 wagoneer d44
So I have a 92 xj, was gonna go with the ford 8.8, but came across a guy that is selling me his 99 grand wagoneer for 200$ (not running). Will the d44 from that year model be a good fit for my 92 xj?
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Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 HO I6
Umm, 99 would be a Grand Cherokee (WJ). If it has the d44 then it is the d44a (aluminum pumpkin), and would not be a desirable swap. The aluminum center section is weaker, the axle is several inches wider than your XJ axles and the bolt pattern is 5x5.
Last edited by gpXJ; 01-14-2015 at 07:09 PM.
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Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 HO I6
There is a reason most people not going full width one ton axles use the 8.8. It is strong, you get disc brakes, and the width and bolt pattern match the XJ. The wagoneer 44 you are thinking came from early 80 full size Cherokees (before our XJ came on the scene). But they are 6x5.5 bolt pattern and the 44 is not better than an 8.8. So basically a lot more work for no better result.
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Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 HO I6
Well, you never mentioned your wheeling style (rocks, mud, fire roads) or your ultimate desired tire size, which makes a big difference in what axles you need to look into.....so all of this is just assumption at this point, but........
Yeah, there are no "ideal" candidates for the front, without dropping heavy coin on something like a dynatrac pro rock 44. Spend a little to beef up the d30 (maybe sleeves, c-gussets, and some moly shafts) and it will survive up to 35's if you don't drive stupid. Full case locker like a Detroit would help too.
But, don't go crazy though and drop $2k upgrading the 30, as you will never get your money back out of it and you still have a d30 ring and pinion, which becomes your weak point.
I wheeled a locked, mildly built d30 on 35's for 2 years, following around all my friends on 37-40's, running the 4 and 5 trails. I actually never broke anything (though I always planned for it), but you should expect to at least break a ujoint, or shaft or two if you do this for a while. Always carry spare parts (shafts, ujoints) so you aren't "that guy" who breaks on the trail and needs to bum tools, parts and time from everyone else to get home.
Yeah, there are no "ideal" candidates for the front, without dropping heavy coin on something like a dynatrac pro rock 44. Spend a little to beef up the d30 (maybe sleeves, c-gussets, and some moly shafts) and it will survive up to 35's if you don't drive stupid. Full case locker like a Detroit would help too.
But, don't go crazy though and drop $2k upgrading the 30, as you will never get your money back out of it and you still have a d30 ring and pinion, which becomes your weak point.
I wheeled a locked, mildly built d30 on 35's for 2 years, following around all my friends on 37-40's, running the 4 and 5 trails. I actually never broke anything (though I always planned for it), but you should expect to at least break a ujoint, or shaft or two if you do this for a while. Always carry spare parts (shafts, ujoints) so you aren't "that guy" who breaks on the trail and needs to bum tools, parts and time from everyone else to get home.
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Well im gonna be using it for trails street driving ( not a daily driver) hopefully get to the Rubicon sometime this year. Im planning on sticking to 33bfg mt, and a 4.5 long travel kit.
My first project, my first jeep, so im stoked about it.
Any other ideas or suggestions let me know
My first project, my first jeep, so im stoked about it.
Any other ideas or suggestions let me know
#9
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Well im gonna be using it for trails street driving ( not a daily driver) hopefully get to the Rubicon sometime this year. Im planning on sticking to 33bfg mt, and a 4.5 long travel kit.
My first project, my first jeep, so im stoked about it.
Any other ideas or suggestions let me know
My first project, my first jeep, so im stoked about it.
Any other ideas or suggestions let me know
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