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Nutserts into the panels are next to take the place of the sheet metal screws that are currently holding the fenders in place. I used steel, 10-24, Nut-serts. Did a few today on one panel and they were easy to work ( first time I ever used those ) super easy.
Also, someone asked,,,,, those are a couple of drain holes designed into the dimple die 3 hole panel, caught that and made a couple of little upside down u-shaped cuts just before we welded them on. Otherwise it would have been a miniature bathtub in the low spot right on the tube.
Just read through the entire thread. This is one impressive build you have going on. All of your work looks great and I can't wait to see the final product. Be sure to post videos of the motor running. I wanna see how it sounds in the cab and around the rig.
Several months ago I pulled the trigger on the lift kit, but I did not cover the choice or the install. Really happy how the tranny mount laid out with steel sleeves inside hard rubber inserts that I adapted and welded to the crossmember. Found them nearby from a local off road fabrication shop. Its great to live here in the east county of San Diego where there are so many off road competitors and fabrication businesses to choose from.
I went with a 6.5 Clayton package, what a nice kit!
Last edited by GRAYMAN SPOTTER; 10-29-2015 at 11:02 PM.
On the Clayton Kit. Of course it did not come with an option of a "Wrangler 6sp - Diesel conversion-transmission mount" ,,, SO, I had to modify the center section just a bit.
I found the Clayton kit was complete and well made. The Johnny joints at the rear pivot point are a fantastic design, strong and functional without binding at any angle. They are rebuild-able and come with zerk fittings.
Last edited by GRAYMAN SPOTTER; 10-29-2015 at 11:08 PM.
Slip yoke eliminator kit, new shift selector plate, 4WD linkage fabrication, shortened driveshaft, correct speedo calibration set up all done by M.I.T in El Cajon. I added 2 degree shims at the rear axle for the correct pinion angle and all is good!
Also in this pic is a section of the new exhaust, 2 1/2 inch front to back without a muffler. It is really fairly quiet (due to the turbo charger) until I lay into it hard, then it just sounds like a snappy diesel.
This was a scary part for me , not alot of experience welding thin stuff or doing body work.
Spent alot of time on the lower section also where I had to cut and fold and finish it of where it was below what the fenders were going to hide.
The first side took 2-3 hours, thinking and thinking and eyeball engineering. then the second side was about 45 minutes. Then after the shaping was done and tacked in place, there were the hundreds of little spot welds to make one continuous bead.
I need to fill and cover these slits,, i am planning on "Kitty hair Bondo" Unless I come up with a better idea,,, anyone have a good plan for this area???. Of course I will search the forum a bit before I continue because all of this has been done before. In fact all of this work that
i just completed on the rear fenders was first researched and duplicated from other great builds on this Cherokee forum, so THANKS ALL for the great information sharing!
Had to fabricate some aluminum brackets for the front valance to mount up against.
This was a aftermarket Valance and was a mess, did not fit right anywhere, had to fiberglass in some studs for mounting and add lots of material so the gap between the hood And the valance would look half way decent. Probably ten different , thin layers of Bondo to build it up just to add a 1/4 inch or so right on the lip that meets the front edge of the hood. A guy that was good with Bondo coulda probably done it in 2-3 passes by maybe building a dam or a form of some kind , but I just kept adding a bit and letting it dry then sanding and shaping and adding more,,, again I am just treating this project as something to learn with, "sweat equity"
NUTSERTS, another thing I have never done, easy!! just alot of them, close to 100 to hold on the 6 panels of body armour/fenders.
I used 10-24 pitch, steel Nutserts.
Bought stainless steel pan head square bit machine screws (McMaster car catalog comes through again) to prevent rust and to give a smooth finished look,,,also did not want to have hex heads hanging up on clothing etc.
33 X 12.50's on 15's, the bead lip is going to be painted red to match the red and semi gloss black plan for the paint.GEEZ, they are new but already dirty from,,shop debris I guess.
Last edited by GRAYMAN SPOTTER; 10-29-2015 at 11:16 PM.
Reason: more detail
10-20-2015, 01:54 AM
