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SW VA XJ's/MJ's, Roanoke/NRV to Bristol, post up!

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Old 04-08-2014, 07:10 PM
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Originally Posted by jeepsurfer1

Sounds like when you apply throttle via your accelerator your vehicle is having to negotiate if it needs more air or fuel and then deliver the fuel or air, now if you factor in that we have a cable actuated accelerator for the throttle plate there should be no reason for a lack of air which leaves you fuel have you checked or tried to clean your injectors
Before I put the new motor in, I replaced the injectors with the updated 4 hole injectors from another member on here and they ran like a dream. Only time any issues arose was right after the fuel pump crapped out.
Old 04-08-2014, 11:46 PM
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Originally Posted by DesertStorm92XJ

Before I put the new motor in, I replaced the injectors with the updated 4 hole injectors from another member on here and they ran like a dream. Only time any issues arose was right after the fuel pump crapped out.
Interesting... I do like puzzles sounds like you need to come get a fuel gauge and drive around and make sure you're not losing fuel pressure when you punch it.. Aside from that I can't honestly I think of anything unless you want to get into the electrical side, throttle position sensor MAP sensor pcm itself could be the problem... As a matter of fact it could even be the oxygen sensor... What year Cherokee are you working on if we can hook up a scanner to it that always helps
Old 04-09-2014, 03:16 AM
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My vote is fuel pressure. Get a gauge somehow and check your pressure, where did you get the new fuel pump from?
Old 04-09-2014, 08:38 AM
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Originally Posted by jeepsurfer1
Advance Auto on 13th Street
I thought so, I just got hired at the Advance Auto in Christiansburg
Old 04-09-2014, 09:21 AM
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Had to put an airtex in it from advance, the whole assembly. I just replaced the fuel filter and pressure regulator too. I cab track down a gauge and make a run around the neighborhood this weekend to verify I'm losing pressure. I'll probably fork out the money for a Carter since I've heard good things about them.
Old 04-09-2014, 11:29 AM
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Anyone heard anything about MTS fuel pumps? Might try one of those out if that ends up being the issue. I also think I'm putting a new distributor in Friday to rule out Cam Position Sensor.
Old 04-09-2014, 05:22 PM
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The Beauty of pre-od2 diag. Check fuel, and check your cam, crank sensors and your MAF. It should be easy to find the resistance tolerances for the cam and crank sensors online and the maf. Good luck!
Old 04-10-2014, 02:29 AM
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Originally Posted by DesertStorm92XJ
Anyone heard anything about MTS fuel pumps? Might try one of those out if that ends up being the issue. I also think I'm putting a new distributor in Friday to rule out Cam Position Sensor.
You don't need a new distributor the sensor will swap out and an easy way is to take your hood off and run a gauge off of your Schrader valve
Old 04-10-2014, 04:15 AM
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I use Bosch fuel pumps only, airtex is junk. Put a Bosch in it.
Old 04-10-2014, 05:39 AM
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My reason for swapping the distributor in is that you have to remove it anyways to replace the sensor and it's only a little more expensive than the sensor itself. Jon, does Bosch sell the whole assembly or just the pump? All I can ever find is the pump. I guess I'll dig the old assembly out of the trash before I put the can out to the curb unless I could swap the bosch pump into the new assembly.
Old 04-10-2014, 10:52 AM
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Originally Posted by DesertStorm92XJ
My reason for swapping the distributor in is that you have to remove it anyways to replace the sensor and it's only a little more expensive than the sensor itself. Jon, does Bosch sell the whole assembly or just the pump? All I can ever find is the pump. I guess I'll dig the old assembly out of the trash before I put the can out to the curb unless I could swap the bosch pump into the new assembly.
You pull a cap on the distributor, and it's right underneath the cap and button. You don't have to pull the distributor
Old 04-10-2014, 11:12 AM
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Originally Posted by jeepsurfer1

You pull a cap on the distributor, and it's right underneath the cap and button. You don't have to pull the distributor
If bros got the dough, I don't see why not replace the whole kit and kabootle. I mean, distributors don't really wear, but if he wants to replace the whole thing I don't see why not. He is right about the price though, I think it's literally like ten bucks difference
Old 04-10-2014, 11:15 AM
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Mine has the style like the renix where it's around the shaft itself. It's a pain in the *** because I wish it had the one where you could pop the cap off but I checked it when I put the motor in. Should've just replaced then but it ran fine. I might check the coil for cracks because I was hitting creeks pretty hard and I think I soaked the engine bay pretty good. Got it at work today but have been to busy to actually test anything yet. :/
Old 04-10-2014, 11:19 AM
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Originally Posted by DesertStorm92XJ
Mine has the style like the renix where it's around the shaft itself. It's a pain in the *** because I wish it had the one where you could pop the cap off but I checked it when I put the motor in. Should've just replaced then but it ran fine. I might check the coil for cracks because I was hitting creeks pretty hard and I think I soaked the engine bay pretty good. Got it at work today but have been to busy to actually test anything yet. :/
That's right I forget Renix era things are different
Old 04-10-2014, 11:59 AM
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Only thing that irritates me is I thought I was past the renix era. Oh well. I'll do some testing in a little while once I catch up on all these cars.


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