Well replaced radiator cap Today after my engine hit 223 degrees in city traffic with efan running. The old cap had the Chrysler emblem so it may be original.

New cap on and even sitting it only gets to 210 degrees now so far so I'm sure the cap was passing and the system wasn't fully pressurizing.

Up until a few days ago the hottest it ran was 185-195 but it was 50+degrees cooler outside. I know 210 is normal but I'm going to install a zj fan clutch when I can.

 

I wish that's all I have to worry about lol

 

I have a renix, my eyes are glued to the coolant temp gauge whenever I drive somewhere. My e-fan just randomly started working again, which is quite nice.

 

My Window only works when you pound on the door panel, this heat sucks

 

Hahaha . You think rad cap is my biggest problem. Look what I'm doing right now in middle of thunderstorm. Nice and quiet just making it happen and getting it done. Going to use the big fn hammer trick and swap out the u joint. I used an extension wedged between knuckle and u joint to press the axle free with the help of power steering. But the past weekend of wheeling was worth some old crappy u joints.

Dude honestly a track bar is no big deal.

 

What temp does your engine run on a average? On a day like today high 80s

 

Today it was pretty nice to me with it being 80ish. It stayed below 210 for the most part. On a real hot summer day it can rise up towards 220-230 if I have it running hard going up a hill or sitting in traffic for a while. I'll usually pop the hood whenever I stop somewhere if I can, just to cool it down.

And for whoever is doing the trac bar replacement, DON'T lift up the jeep by the body. You will work against what it's designed to do and it'll be a lot harder to get the bolts out. Best to leave it on level ground. Torque specs are slipping my mind right now but you can easily find them. I wanna say 75 at the frame end and 55 at the axle end, but don't quote me on that. Do some research first.

 

Man so 220-230 is ok in your book? I know the 4.0 runs hotter than most engines I'm use to but its also a long inline six engine block so its harder to cool. I'm going to see how it goes next few days. Thanks for the info.
I just got the old u joint out I'd say its shot and what a pita trying to change one with a hammer and socket.. wish I had a press. But its out now time to carefully install new u joint and put this beast back together. Have to do other side tomorrow, its not clicking yet but may as well.

 

I'd say this u joint is no good anymore..

 

Invest in a bench vise, works great for ujoints

 

Ahh good call that'd work good because the socket hammer is a ball buster. I never considered a vise and its a hell of a lot cheaper than a press.

 

Been their just put a tarp over the hood and sit on a bucket and you will stay relatively dry

 

Pics or it didn't happen

 

Nah I'm half way in my miniature ,packed full of crap garage. So I'm dry.

 

It's not a good temperature, but it's bearable for the motor for short periods of time. Normal running temp is 210. 220 is hot, 230 is up there and it should be cooled as soon as possible. I believe the red zone starts at 250, and it doesn't take long for it to get there from 230. The renix motors are known to run hotter because of the cooling system. We just have to keep an eye on it more. It's just another perk of owning a renix.