Four Corners Colorado, New Mexico, Utah & Arizona

Northern Utah BS thread

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Old Nov 10, 2011 | 09:02 PM
  #8881  
builtnotbought89''s Avatar
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From: SLC, UT
Year: 1989 2 door
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I can't get the new pics to upload but the passenger side is at this point.


Old Nov 10, 2011 | 09:05 PM
  #8882  
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Year: 1989 2 door
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The tail gate will be 38"-39"s!
Old Nov 10, 2011 | 09:05 PM
  #8883  
A.T.R.Offroad's Avatar
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From: Huricane, Utah
Year: 1994 Ford Bronco
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 351 W
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Thank's Ryan for posting those while I read your build thread.....
Old Nov 10, 2011 | 09:59 PM
  #8884  
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From: Taylorsville, UT
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
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Yeah, the KM2's are working nice, although I have little to compare them to. I have only run KM's and all terrains.

Hydraulic assist would take load off the box, although is it worth the cost and work? Plus, is it legal for the street? I'm sure Derek knows. I think full hydraulic is no-go on the street, but I'm not sure on assist.

IMO, a healthy box and pump, or a minor upgrade to one or both is plenty for a rig on 35s. Maybe if I ran assist I would change my mind, but with the wheeling I do, the situations where I must turn and can't are rare. And I would prefer my limit to be down where it is before I unknowingly turn a bead off my wheel or break something.
Old Nov 10, 2011 | 10:45 PM
  #8885  
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Year: 2000
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Originally Posted by FloydXJ
Yeah, the KM2's are working nice, although I have little to compare them to. I have only run KM's and all terrains.

Hydraulic assist would take load off the box, although is it worth the cost and work? Plus, is it legal for the street? I'm sure Derek knows. I think full hydraulic is no-go on the street, but I'm not sure on assist.

IMO, a healthy box and pump, or a minor upgrade to one or both is plenty for a rig on 35s. Maybe if I ran assist I would change my mind, but with the wheeling I do, the situations where I must turn and can't are rare. And I would prefer my limit to be down where it is before I unknowingly turn a bead off my wheel or break something.
all good points, I picker the lockright as it would save me money even with hydraulic assist, over a selectable. the steering gets SUPER stiff when turning to where i have NO control. hydraulic steering is looking like a must at this point. But ill make up my mind after this CO trip in 2 weeks.

The KM2's are what I am going to get, I have a buddy at discount who can get me 4 35's with a no question asked free replacement warranty if not repairable for 980$ with certificates.

Hydraulic assist is legal, full hydraulic steering is not. hydraulic assist kit is only 200 for a full new kit. so its not a ton of money for a effortless steering system. but I don;t know if its really needed, I am mostly worried about my nut backing off... which a durango box should fix... ? I hope...
Old Nov 10, 2011 | 10:46 PM
  #8886  
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looking good ryan, going to have to bust *** tomorrow night lol
Old Nov 11, 2011 | 08:21 AM
  #8887  
builtnotbought89''s Avatar
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From: SLC, UT
Year: 1989 2 door
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Ya for sure! You still comin over?
Old Nov 11, 2011 | 08:49 AM
  #8888  
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I am!
Old Nov 11, 2011 | 09:07 AM
  #8889  
builtnotbought89''s Avatar
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Year: 1989 2 door
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Cool bring that mig. Haha
Old Nov 11, 2011 | 10:02 AM
  #8890  
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From: Springville, UT
Year: 1993
Model: Grand Cherokee
Engine: 5.2 V8, Dual cold air, dual batts, E-fan, Sanden OBA
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Originally Posted by Gorillaxj

all good points, I picker the lockright as it would save me money even with hydraulic assist, over a selectable. the steering gets SUPER stiff when turning to where i have NO control. hydraulic steering is looking like a must at this point. But ill make up my mind after this CO trip in 2 weeks.

The KM2's are what I am going to get, I have a buddy at discount who can get me 4 35's with a no question asked free replacement warranty if not repairable for 980$ with certificates.

Hydraulic assist is legal, full hydraulic steering is not. hydraulic assist kit is only 200 for a full new kit. so its not a ton of money for a effortless steering system. but I don;t know if its really needed, I am mostly worried about my nut backing off... which a durango box should fix... ? I hope...
Back the nut off a ways and lather some red locktight on it then tighten that bastard up as tight as possible.
Where are you finding a hydro assist kit for 200$? **** the rams I'm lookin at are around the 150$ range by themselves.
And he'll ya on th KM2's I'm kinda jealous I paid 1050$ for mine ( with the warranty of course)
Old Nov 11, 2011 | 11:00 AM
  #8891  
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It had red lock tight on it... i did put more though...

I would bring the mig if i could!!

Last edited by Gorillaxj; Nov 11, 2011 at 11:08 AM.
Old Nov 11, 2011 | 11:10 AM
  #8892  
builtnotbought89''s Avatar
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Year: 1989 2 door
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What other fab shops should I look into aside from ballistics?
Old Nov 11, 2011 | 11:17 AM
  #8893  
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this is the kit i am going to run. its a 2"x8" for dana knuckle aplications. (yes its a toyots site) But its cheap, and have seen them work without problems for years on toy axles and waggy D44 (also a popular sway for newer toyotas)

http://www.trail-gear.com/ram-assist-kits
Old Nov 11, 2011 | 11:17 AM
  #8894  
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I would recomend, ruff stuff, balisticfab, poly performance, and Blue torch fab.. some cheaper then others...
Old Nov 11, 2011 | 12:42 PM
  #8895  
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From: Huricane, Utah
Year: 1994 Ford Bronco
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 351 W
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if ya need your stuff quick don't go with ballistic I'd say RuffStuff all the way



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