I might be and I'll let you know wednes 4 the cleanupday

 

okay after a little research it is a U4WDA cleanup/trailrun on November 12th at 10am lets put some station wagons to good use and help clean up some trash

 

We were just out there for NPLD, not that its clean by any means...

Not gonna happen for me. It's lukes first b-day!

 

K so I talked to the wife we are going to go but we are leaving by two to make it to lukes b day party

 

k sounds good...

 

I won't be able to make the clean up... damn work...

So I have been trying to figure out a way to clock my transfercase up and level with my crossmember. It will rub on my trasnfercase skid on steep climbs, and my skid hangs down a bit. roughly 10* higher would get me right where I want, and its what TJ's run at stock so oiling should be fine, it would also alow me to flush the skid off at the crossmember and keep a flat belly.

Any who, looked into clocking rings but no luck for a NP231 from what I found, unless a D300 ring works??

but I did find that people drill new holes with a higher offset in the transmission tail adapter... http://www.bsfab.net/?p=23

any one think its a bad idea? or know of a ring that works?

 

a dana 300 ring should work, if you want i can go out in the garage dig out my doubler setup and tell you for sure. but a D300 will bolt directly to an AW4 so i see no reason it wouldn't work.

but i've watched a couple people drill their holes to clock the case and as far as i know they have no problems at all with them, and that was a few yrs ago.

 

I was thinking it would work, but then I need to take up the gap of the spacer for the seal on the output right? Haven't come across anything on that part...

Drilling the holes would be nice in the fact that it would work and nothing really changed. But its a dirll once type of deal lol

 

also, I've read that the NP231 has a bigger case then the NP242, and vise versa... are they actually different? if so which hanges lower? I was planning to switch to a Np231 with a 4-1, Full SYE, 2 low kit ect all at once... or is that over kill? lol

 

i've read to keep it from leaking RTV and alot of it LOL but you work for toyota so you can get that cool toyota goop that seals anything
yes they are different the 242 will hang lower, it has a bigger case than the 231, it has more stuff in it than the 231 also. but the 231 is stronger and lighter so your 231,4.1 SYE and 2 low is a great idea, really expensive but great. might wanna price an atlas new or used(i've seen them go for cheaper used than the cost of that 231) for the cost of what you wanna do to that 231

 

Better do a write up on it if you end up doing it

 

dunno if this was ever posted here,(couldn't find it) but here's the last little bit of mine, cory's and wayne's race up the first drop/final climb on cliff hanger

 

Interesting. I think I am going to drill it. Although I may not need it with the np231, further out of the way the better though, and its something fast and free I can do before my CO trip in a few weeks if I get motivated....

that's the debate to be honest.. build a NP231, or stakk/atlas. the NP231, would cost me 75$ for the T/case, 600$ for the 4-1, and 150$ for the SYE, and my current drive lines will work. So roughly 850$ said and done. or the $1200-$1500(from what I've seen) for a used basic atlas + drive line changes if needed... (I have no clue if you do) I don't think i need the 2lo kit, just sounds fun lol

So with cost being a little cheaper, should I just run a 231, save for an atlas if i feel the need later? or build the 231?

 

Oh I will do one when it happens.

 

Looks like fun. that was a weird obstacle to do in the dark... I walked up from the bottom right, then cut across and up the center. I want to run cliffhanger again, I loved it other then the rock I hit... lol