Four Corners Colorado, New Mexico, Utah & Arizona

Northern Utah BS thread

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Old Mar 11, 2010 | 07:43 PM
  #856  
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From: SLC Utah
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: I6
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HEY HEY HEY muffler bearing REALLY do exist... no joke, Audi's have them and the chevy corvette lol but anywho

but ya with your jeep running use your multimeter and check your battery and if its reading above 14v then its good
Old Mar 11, 2010 | 07:48 PM
  #857  
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Year: 1998
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After all my years of joking around I just don't think I could trust a car with muffler bearings, LOL!
Old Mar 11, 2010 | 08:48 PM
  #858  
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Year: 1989
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I keep looking..... Checkers tested the battery and said it was gone.... that it will not hold a charge or something like that..... anyway now i have to keep doing what I was doing.... lol just for the sake of learning something so I will continue following wiring diagrams and stuff...

Always, no offense taken, I have once send somebody to the store asking for elbow grease.....
Old Mar 11, 2010 | 08:51 PM
  #859  
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Year: 1989 2 door
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Here's a break down of it. The drag link and tie rod are the ones you want to run as parallel as possible! If its not then you want a extreme drop pitman arm to lower the drag link!
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Nate needs one BAD as you can see...
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Old Mar 11, 2010 | 09:00 PM
  #860  
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Year: 1989 2 door
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steph did you replace the batt then???
Old Mar 11, 2010 | 09:15 PM
  #861  
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Year: 1989
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not yet I am pretty sure that wiring is messed up so I don;t want to spend money on a battery and ruin it right away..... will see this week end

By the way, you guys make me dream hehe I never thought I would be interested in such modifications for a vehicle, but the more I read, the more I am tempted..... fortunately money is a very limiting factor (and added with wife's veto....) lol but little by little I guess one day i will be able to have fun too
Old Mar 11, 2010 | 09:32 PM
  #862  
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Year: 1989 2 door
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Yep guys sounds like someone has been bitten^^^!
I guess we should have warned you how addicting jeeping is!!!
"You don't want none of this stuff dewey!" (Walk Hard movie) lol
This stuff sucks you in & eats ALL your money! Jeeping is more than just a hobby its a way of life...
Old Mar 11, 2010 | 09:50 PM
  #863  
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yup yup

so i have been thinking and came to a decision. this summer when i get a job im selling the jeep and getting a dodge diesel.... and then when i have spare change (a lot of it) im going to buy a YJ and do a complete off frame build, including a 8" coil over lift that will extend the wheel base 8-9" so about 106" total wheel base, a fuel infected chev 350 v8 and so forth so ill be jeepless for a bit
Old Mar 11, 2010 | 10:03 PM
  #864  
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WA WA WHAT??? You might as well say, I'm trying to sell my jeep & buy a subaru... lol
Old Mar 11, 2010 | 10:12 PM
  #865  
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haha ya basically but im having so many problems wit my jeep its driving me nuts so ya haha
Old Mar 11, 2010 | 10:14 PM
  #866  
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ya that sucks dude! well at least your keepin it in the mopar family!
Old Mar 11, 2010 | 10:18 PM
  #867  
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heck ya, its also my best friend wants me to go to moab with him and hes in that buggy so i will need something to keep up with him so thats why im building that buggy
Old Mar 11, 2010 | 10:25 PM
  #868  
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that will be sick! but I couldn't ever give up my XJ
Old Mar 11, 2010 | 10:33 PM
  #869  
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Originally Posted by Desert Rat
Process of elimination. Problem did not occur prior to new lift, this leads me to believe you can rule out bushings (other than track bar, which is new), tie rod ends, ball joints and gear box. This leaves what was changed, longer 3" springs and track bar I believe you said you installed an adjustable one but I'm not 100% sure. If the track bar is parallel to the drag link I would most likely rule that out as well. I'm thinking with a 2" budget lift with 3" springs added on with the stock LCA's is causing your problem. Thats my .02.
x2 if you have that much lift on the stock arms that is the problem most likely but it could be a rod end as well have some one get in the jeep and have them move the steering wheel while you look at the steering parts. also if you still do have stock arm i will be selling my re with flex joints lower arms soon I'm building a long arm since i just put in my 7.5 re coils with 2 inch spacer in the front with just the short arms. yes you read that right 9.5 inches of lift and i still need to raise the front one inch to make me level. now i just need the long arms and 35's and i should be good.
Old Mar 12, 2010 | 10:08 AM
  #870  
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Originally Posted by builtnotbought89'
Here's a break down of it. The drag link and tie rod are the ones you want to run as parallel as possible! If its not then you want a extreme drop pitman arm to lower the drag link!
Attachment 14569
Ok so based off what Ryan says here then yes i need a drop pitman arm cuz the drag link and tie rod are no where near parallel lol and while i'm at it i will be getting adjustable lower control arms just to be on the safe side. So next pay day guess i will be ordering some parts.

Thanks for the help guys, this was really starting to **** me off.



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