builtnotbought89'

buning oil would be BLACK!!! & white smoke is common when first resurecting any truck, but in is aways blowing white smoke then you have a problem!

AFfireguy

Oil looks more blue then black. If its black kinda like a diesel then it running way too rich. If it blows white smoke after is is warmed up then i'd be worried about a head gasket but white smoke when cold is normal. Its extra fuel in the mix to help it warm up faster and get into closed loop faster.

builtnotbought89'

Huh I always thought oil smoked black, I could be wrong though! Have yet to run into that problem... Thank god

Steph74

OK, just to please Always, I am going to play...
"how do you check the fluid for the blinkers ?"

Yeah fume is definitely white at the beginning then thins out..... then gets through a different array of colors lol but mainly nothing alarming at that stage. As I said, the engine since to run really smooth so far.

Tonight I will get the battery tested and charged (again) then I will remember to disconnect it when I am not working.... just to keep it longer.
When it is running, the gauge shows a full 14V is that an indication that the alternator is good ?
Then now that I have some wiring diagrams, I will try to trace back the faulty blinker/light and see what I can find....

How do you remove the flasher on the fuse box ? i tried to pull it out, but I am afraid of forcing too much to pull it...

Anyway I guess I will take it easy even though I am impatient to go try Cheekee (yeah I gave her a little name ) outside of the block. There is mud everywhere with our names on it....

Desert Rat

[QUOTE=Steph74;463561]OK, just to please Always, I am going to play...
"how do you check the fluid for the blinkers ?"

Always is yanking your chain, its an old mechanics joke.
Also disregard advice to check the muffler bearings or to retrieve and send him an exhaust sample. Ha!

rivercrazy

Yah, 14V means your alternator is pumping out juice. Your Battery could just be low on water.

Not sure about the flasher but it should just pull strait out.

I still haven't been able to locate the Blinker Fluid!?! Let me know if you do!

builtnotbought89'

LMAO good times!!!

Steph74

yeah I am not mechanic savvy, but I smelled the blinker fluid joke from far way....
Now I got some exhaust samples trapped in a bottle.... who do I have to send them to already ? maybe next time I start the engine, i will take different samples at different time and take pictures of them so you guys can see what is the color of the fumes....

AFfireguy

Alright guys i'm stumped I'm still fighting with this damn death wobble in the front of my jeep. According to the alignment caster is within factory spec's, everything is tight with no play anywhere. After the alignment and new steering stabilizer i thought it had gone away but i guess not

Above 50 mph i can feel it start to wobble but it gets real bad once i hit a bump. Damn thing tries to tear the wheel outta my hands. I have to pull over to get it to stop. Would is be because the rear is sitting lower them the front????? i'm outta ideas so please help!!!!!!!!!!!

alwaysxj

it is called bump steer. how it the bushings on the track bar? and you have to make sure if you have a dparm that the track bar is parallel with each other.



and as far as the bliker joke i just had too sorry. me and my buddy was working on his toy truck and his blinkers were not working and we could not figure it out. his little cusion was over that day and i said well did you check the blinker fluide and his cusion said ya maybe that is it so we went to the parts store and sent him in to get some blinker fluid while me and my buddy sat in the truck we just had too so he could learn. so sorry i just had too.

AFfireguy

Track bar is brand new, sorry forgot to mention that. There is only one track bar so what is it supposed to be parallel with?

Desert Rat

If my memory serves me correctly the track bar needs to be parallel with your draglink. I have to wonder if your problem isn't with your stock LCA's being too short for the lift. Also, with this still occuring, are you still running with the swaybar disconnected, I'm sure that won't cause the problem, but I doubt that would help out when it does occur?

AFfireguy

The track bar and drag link are pretty damn close to parallel.

No the sway bar is still disconnected.

builtnotbought89'

Josh lets get a pic of the drag link & track bar??? Nate is having the same problem, but even only at 35mph if he hits a bump!!!

Desert Rat

Process of elimination. Problem did not occur prior to new lift, this leads me to believe you can rule out bushings (other than track bar, which is new), tie rod ends, ball joints and gear box. This leaves what was changed, longer 3" springs and track bar I believe you said you installed an adjustable one but I'm not 100% sure. If the track bar is parallel to the drag link I would most likely rule that out as well. I'm thinking with a 2" budget lift with 3" springs added on with the stock LCA's is causing your problem. Thats my .02.