Northern Utah BS thread
CF Veteran
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 1,179
Likes: 0
From: Lehi, Utah
Year: 90' 93'
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
I dont like it in 4th to 5th, when I down shift to go up hills, it wants me to shift back to 5th. If I did that, I wouldn't make it up the point of mountain.
CF Veteran
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 1,649
Likes: 1
From: Springville, UT
Year: 1993
Model: Grand Cherokee
Engine: 5.2 V8, Dual cold air, dual batts, E-fan, Sanden OBA
Originally Posted by Mr Talon
I dont like it in 4th to 5th, when I down shift to go up hills, it wants me to shift back to 5th. If I did that, I wouldn't make it up the point of mountain.
Senior Member
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 564
Likes: 0
From: SLC ut
Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0I
Originally Posted by jmaxj
its your shift light, if you have an auto then it just randomly shorted and came on. if you have a manual then it should come on around 2200-2500rpm i think
Thread Starter
CF Veteran
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 3,612
Likes: 0
From: West Valley
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
<<<<< This kids thinking he's ready for some long arms! I'm thinking about mimicking the Clayton design (but building them with .250 wall DOM rather than square still not 100% sure, just getting started thinking about it) as I've always been super impressed with Jasons rig.
I've got a metric **** ton of homework to do but I figured since some of you guys have a lot more knowledge than I do regarding such things, I figured I'd pick your brains.
1. Would there be an advantage one way or the other regarding DOM vs square tube?
2. Any suggestions as far as the best source for builder parts. Joints, bushings, brackets and such necessary for such a project? What companies to avoid?
3. Any links you guys have bookmarked or know of etc. would be appreciated.
4. Any "make sure you" or whatever you do, dont" suggestions are very welcome.
Those are biggest questions at the moment. Like I said, I am setting off to do my homework, I'm just hoping to make the homework a little easier if possible. Thanks in advance.
I've got a metric **** ton of homework to do but I figured since some of you guys have a lot more knowledge than I do regarding such things, I figured I'd pick your brains.
1. Would there be an advantage one way or the other regarding DOM vs square tube?
2. Any suggestions as far as the best source for builder parts. Joints, bushings, brackets and such necessary for such a project? What companies to avoid?
3. Any links you guys have bookmarked or know of etc. would be appreciated.
4. Any "make sure you" or whatever you do, dont" suggestions are very welcome.
Those are biggest questions at the moment. Like I said, I am setting off to do my homework, I'm just hoping to make the homework a little easier if possible. Thanks in advance.
Last edited by Desert Rat; May 10, 2012 at 07:37 PM.
CF Veteran
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 1,179
Likes: 0
From: Lehi, Utah
Year: 90' 93'
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
CF Veteran
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 1,703
Likes: 0
From: Utardiland
Year: whats left of a 91
Model: Cherokee
Engine: one that makes noise
<<<<< This kids thinking he's ready for some long arms! I'm thinking about mimicking the Clayton design (but building them with .250 wall DOM rather than square still not 100% sure, just getting started thinking about it) as I've always been super impressed with Jasons rig.
I've got a metric **** ton of homework to do but I figured since some of you guys have a lot more knowledge than I do regarding such things, I figured I'd pick your brains.
1. Would there be an advantage one way or the other regarding DOM vs square tube?
the advantage to tube is you can just tap it and call it good, thread your joints in and be done.
2. Any suggestions as far as the best source for builder parts. Joints, bushings, brackets and such necessary for such a project? What companies to avoid?
ruff stuff all the way. best joints and great pricing. but for the tube you can get that local i can get it tapped for ya, and summit has bushing local that'll work for ya. but you could also run trail gears flex joint(forgot the name) i'm running them and they are pretty good.
3. Any links you guys have bookmarked or know of etc. would be appreciated.
many but i'll have to dig them all up
4. Any "make sure you" or whatever you do, dont" suggestions are very welcome.
if it's not now would be a good time to plate the frame to keep it from twisting. and instead of a Y link or radius i'd do a true 4 link but that's just me.
Those are biggest questions at the moment. Like I said, I am setting off to do my homework, I'm just hoping to make the homework a little easier if possible. Thanks in advance.
I've got a metric **** ton of homework to do but I figured since some of you guys have a lot more knowledge than I do regarding such things, I figured I'd pick your brains.
1. Would there be an advantage one way or the other regarding DOM vs square tube?
the advantage to tube is you can just tap it and call it good, thread your joints in and be done.
2. Any suggestions as far as the best source for builder parts. Joints, bushings, brackets and such necessary for such a project? What companies to avoid?
ruff stuff all the way. best joints and great pricing. but for the tube you can get that local i can get it tapped for ya, and summit has bushing local that'll work for ya. but you could also run trail gears flex joint(forgot the name) i'm running them and they are pretty good.
3. Any links you guys have bookmarked or know of etc. would be appreciated.
many but i'll have to dig them all up
4. Any "make sure you" or whatever you do, dont" suggestions are very welcome.
if it's not now would be a good time to plate the frame to keep it from twisting. and instead of a Y link or radius i'd do a true 4 link but that's just me.
Those are biggest questions at the moment. Like I said, I am setting off to do my homework, I'm just hoping to make the homework a little easier if possible. Thanks in advance.
CF Veteran
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 1,535
Likes: 0
From: Eagle Mountain, Utah
Year: 1994
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Thread Starter
CF Veteran
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 3,612
Likes: 0
From: West Valley
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
That is exactly the the type of input I was looking for, now I have even more questions. I'm going to see if I can get my obligations wrapped up tommorow and if I can, I'll see you Saturday.
CF Veteran
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 1,649
Likes: 1
From: Springville, UT
Year: 1993
Model: Grand Cherokee
Engine: 5.2 V8, Dual cold air, dual batts, E-fan, Sanden OBA
Originally Posted by X1994J
Right now. Soon as I get back from Moab it's going away and I'm going to start my next project.
CF Veteran
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 4,968
Likes: 0
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
Also, his "tap guy" is great. Got mine today, this thing is beef! and its getting a sleeve lol He (Derek's buddy) has a friend that stocks Ruff stuffs hiems locally, easier to buy, and local replacements....
So Derek... How would you do a front 4 link? just curious as to how you would mount it, I am thinking about just buying the Clayton Cross-member and building my own arms for a 3 link (1 1/4 hiems 2" 250 wall), But would prefer a 4 link, Just curious about how the 4th link would need to be mounted, any different then the 3 link? or just throw the 4th arm on... lol
Did you ever get your bender back? I still need to bend a tube LOL
CF Veteran
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 4,968
Likes: 0
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
Hdraulic assist question...
I have been reading about setting it up and ideal on this and that.... one thing I keep reading about is a larger reservoir for the fluid the ram uses and then pushed back.
How did you guys do this? or did you... I am puzzled as I get nothing other the PSC kits coming up with searching about it on xj's.... stupid o-ring attached reservoir lol
I have been reading about setting it up and ideal on this and that.... one thing I keep reading about is a larger reservoir for the fluid the ram uses and then pushed back.
How did you guys do this? or did you... I am puzzled as I get nothing other the PSC kits coming up with searching about it on xj's.... stupid o-ring attached reservoir lol
CF Veteran
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 1,703
Likes: 0
From: Utardiland
Year: whats left of a 91
Model: Cherokee
Engine: one that makes noise
pretty much... I love the Ruff Stuff hiems, I am planning to build everything with them. I hae been very impressed with the joints I have gotten so far!
Also, his "tap guy" is great. Got mine today, this thing is beef! and its getting a sleeve lol He (Derek's buddy) has a friend that stocks Ruff stuffs hiems locally, easier to buy, and local replacements....
So Derek... How would you do a front 4 link? just curious as to how you would mount it, I am thinking about just buying the Clayton Cross-member and building my own arms for a 3 link (1 1/4 hiems 2" 250 wall), But would prefer a 4 link, Just curious about how the 4th link would need to be mounted, any different then the 3 link? or just throw the 4th arm on... lol
Did you ever get your bender back? I still need to bend a tube LOL
Also, his "tap guy" is great. Got mine today, this thing is beef! and its getting a sleeve lol He (Derek's buddy) has a friend that stocks Ruff stuffs hiems locally, easier to buy, and local replacements....
So Derek... How would you do a front 4 link? just curious as to how you would mount it, I am thinking about just buying the Clayton Cross-member and building my own arms for a 3 link (1 1/4 hiems 2" 250 wall), But would prefer a 4 link, Just curious about how the 4th link would need to be mounted, any different then the 3 link? or just throw the 4th arm on... lol
Did you ever get your bender back? I still need to bend a tube LOL
and as for the 4 link i would do it just like my 3 link but add a 4th arm which is very doable, maybe one night you can cruise over look at mine and i can show ya, easier than explaining it here loland not yet but i should be next week.
Hdraulic assist question...
I have been reading about setting it up and ideal on this and that.... one thing I keep reading about is a larger reservoir for the fluid the ram uses and then pushed back.
How did you guys do this? or did you... I am puzzled as I get nothing other the PSC kits coming up with searching about it on xj's.... stupid o-ring attached reservoir lol
I have been reading about setting it up and ideal on this and that.... one thing I keep reading about is a larger reservoir for the fluid the ram uses and then pushed back.
How did you guys do this? or did you... I am puzzled as I get nothing other the PSC kits coming up with searching about it on xj's.... stupid o-ring attached reservoir lol
CF Veteran
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 4,968
Likes: 0
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
ya he's told me about the local supplier of ruffstuff (steve) is the only one i know of but he rarely has the 1.25's when i go into his shop. unless carl knows of another guy now and as for the 4 link i would do it just like my 3 link but add a 4th arm which is very doable, maybe one night you can cruise over look at mine and i can show ya, easier than explaining it here lol
and not yet but i should be next week.
and as for the 4 link i would do it just like my 3 link but add a 4th arm which is very doable, maybe one night you can cruise over look at mine and i can show ya, easier than explaining it here loland not yet but i should be next week.
... while we BS about said setup lol I can bring some 
(once you do get it back)I am mainly wondering about the geometry of the upper arms on the body side... it would be the same as a 3 link just with 2 upper arms right? so If I get the cross-member and just add a matching upper arm mount I should be A-O-K right? (as long as it clears everything on the pass side)
CF Veteran
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 1,703
Likes: 0
From: Utardiland
Year: whats left of a 91
Model: Cherokee
Engine: one that makes noise
yes to all 
and as for the geometry the general rule of thumb i was told is....the uppers at least 80% the length of the lowers and have the uppers as parallel as possible with the lowers, and so far with the exception of mine they have worked with minimal issues.
and as for the geometry the general rule of thumb i was told is....the uppers at least 80% the length of the lowers and have the uppers as parallel as possible with the lowers, and so far with the exception of mine they have worked with minimal issues.