Four Corners Colorado, New Mexico, Utah & Arizona

Northern Utah BS thread #2

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Old Jun 10, 2013 | 09:43 AM
  #4561  
john78's Avatar
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From: fairview utah
Year: 1988
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Default arms

Originally Posted by bigboystoysxj
Yea I kept leafs in the rear air shocks in front
Do you have a set of factory short arms laying around? Any body?
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Old Jun 10, 2013 | 08:13 PM
  #4562  
builtnotbought89''s Avatar
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From: SLC, UT
Year: 1989 2 door
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
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Just so u guys know my buddy donkeypunch is parting out a '95 4 door XJ. It's only missing batt., catalytic converter, ac compressor, & the ps box. Txt or call Nate at 801 eight six four 6638.
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Old Jun 10, 2013 | 09:05 PM
  #4563  
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Originally Posted by john78

Do you have a set of factory short arms laying around? Any body?
Yea I have some the stamped type.
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Old Jun 10, 2013 | 10:12 PM
  #4564  
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Ok guys best way to weld spider gears ? Arc mig heat them up first ?
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Old Jun 11, 2013 | 12:41 AM
  #4565  
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From: fairview utah
Year: 1988
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Default mig

Originally Posted by bigboystoysxj
Ok guys best way to weld spider gears ? Arc mig heat them up first ?
The only way I have ever done it is with a mig or flux and just pulled the cover off, blew the spider gears off with some air and burned it in hot hot hot. Might check out a way called"fozzy lock" you only weld 3 or 4 of the teeth on either the side gears or the top and bottom, it allows the axle to rotate a little before it binds up, that is how I have my little beater Jeep and works pretty well, just a thought.welding them is no big deal just turn up the heat, how much you want for the controle arms, the stamped ones

Last edited by john78; Jun 11, 2013 at 12:45 AM.
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Old Jun 11, 2013 | 05:48 AM
  #4566  
builtnotbought89''s Avatar
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From: SLC, UT
Year: 1989 2 door
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
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You're gonna want to use carb cleaner on the spiders before you weld them. (NOT BRAKE CLEANER, brake cleaner off gases when burned & can be deadly!) U have to get the oil off the metal to get a solid weld...
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Old Jun 11, 2013 | 05:58 AM
  #4567  
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Originally Posted by john78

The only way I have ever done it is with a mig or flux and just pulled the cover off, blew the spider gears off with some air and burned it in hot hot hot. Might check out a way called"fozzy lock" you only weld 3 or 4 of the teeth on either the side gears or the top and bottom, it allows the axle to rotate a little before it binds up, that is how I have my little beater Jeep and works pretty well, just a thought.welding them is no big deal just turn up the heat, how much you want for the controle arms, the stamped ones
I seen that method on the web was thinking about that I just not sure if that will gold to how much skinny peddle I use lol you can have them free If you want message your address ill put in a box
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Old Jun 11, 2013 | 05:59 AM
  #4568  
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Originally Posted by builtnotbought89'
You're gonna want to use carb cleaner on the spiders before you weld them. (NOT BRAKE CLEANER, brake cleaner off gases when burned & can be deadly!) U have to get the oil off the metal to get a solid weld...
Yea that could go bad real quick lol
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Old Jun 11, 2013 | 07:06 AM
  #4569  
builtnotbought89''s Avatar
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From: SLC, UT
Year: 1989 2 door
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
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Haha ya guess I should clarify that it would be wise to blow the carb cleaner out, & let the diff dry before welding!
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Old Jun 12, 2013 | 10:20 PM
  #4570  
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From: fairview utah
Year: 1988
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Talking Ha ha

Sweet does that mean I'm not the only one to light a fire in the pumpkin first time I welded gears lol,
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Old Jun 13, 2013 | 09:53 PM
  #4571  
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From: Layton, Ut
Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
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Is anyone available Mon evening about 530 or 6 to help me put a set of gears in a HPD30??? It will be in a shop and I will have any tool we will need(I believe). I would really appreciate any help I could get. The shop is in Salt Lake. The axle is already stripped and ready for the new gears. Then on another day I will have to do the gear swap on the C8.25 in the rear. Anyway let me know, Please and Thank You

Tweeter
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Old Jun 17, 2013 | 01:24 AM
  #4572  
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From: Taylorsville, UT
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
Default Leaky

So, I recently had a classic snowball effect on a repair. I had gotten a warranty Durango box on account of the last one leaking. I was going to bleed the system as directed which involved taking the return line off the reservoir. As many have before me, I broke the fitting off the reservoir. No one local seemed to carry this, so I went to the junk yard and found one. Since I had the pump off, I replaced my super old cracked serp belt as well. Got the reservoir on and everything back together and found I was leaking pretty soon. Yay!
I could not tell for sure, but I am pretty sure the leak was between the pump and junk yard reservoir. Serves me right for not bothering with a new o-ring. Now I COULD pull it back off and seal it one way or another...but why do that when I could spend a bunch of money?

While I waited for the parts to come in, the leak got slowly worse. The puddle in the pic is from sitting there for 5 minutes right before I started pulling stuff off.

Got an AGR super pump and super box (tapped for hydro), new reservoir...and o-ring, 4.5" PSC pulley, a cooler, filter, hoses, a shorter belt to comp for the small pulley, and a gallon of red line full synth fluid. She steers purty nice now and doesn't leak. Now it is on to a ram and hoses to add the hydro. Plus there is a spare Durango box in my garage to guarantee I will never need it.
Attached Thumbnails Northern Utah BS thread #2-wp_000261.jpg   Northern Utah BS thread #2-wp_000260.jpg  

Last edited by FloydXJ; Jun 17, 2013 at 01:28 AM.
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Old Jun 17, 2013 | 06:11 AM
  #4573  
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Originally Posted by FloydXJ
So, I recently had a classic snowball effect on a repair. I had gotten a warranty Durango box on account of the last one leaking. I was going to bleed the system as directed which involved taking the return line off the reservoir. As many have before me, I broke the fitting off the reservoir. No one local seemed to carry this, so I went to the junk yard and found one. Since I had the pump off, I replaced my super old cracked serp belt as well. Got the reservoir on and everything back together and found I was leaking pretty soon. Yay!
I could not tell for sure, but I am pretty sure the leak was between the pump and junk yard reservoir. Serves me right for not bothering with a new o-ring. Now I COULD pull it back off and seal it one way or another...but why do that when I could spend a bunch of money?

While I waited for the parts to come in, the leak got slowly worse. The puddle in the pic is from sitting there for 5 minutes right before I started pulling stuff off.

Got an AGR super pump and super box (tapped for hydro), new reservoir...and o-ring, 4.5" PSC pulley, a cooler, filter, hoses, a shorter belt to comp for the small pulley, and a gallon of red line full synth fluid. She steers purty nice now and doesn't leak. Now it is on to a ram and hoses to add the hydro. Plus there is a spare Durango box in my garage to guarantee I will never need it.
http://www.surpluscenter.com/item.as...name=hydraulic. This seams to be the go to ram.
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Old Jun 18, 2013 | 07:09 PM
  #4574  
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From: Salt Lake City, UT
Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
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Originally Posted by FloydXJ
So, I recently had a classic snowball effect on a repair. I had gotten a warranty....................... Plus there is a spare Durango box in my garage to guarantee I will never need it.
Sounds about right! definitely went the high road and shouldn't have issues (fingers crossed for ya)

Your going to love hydro! has been one of my fav mods!

Can still hook you up on the trail-gear kit if your interested, just text/call Tyler for pricing ect...
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Old Jun 20, 2013 | 06:43 AM
  #4575  
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From: provo, utah
Year: 1995
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
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Two questions any one got a passenger side door hinge just the side that goes on the door ?? Second why would there be sand in a radiator and would that cause any problems for the engine ?
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