Northern Utah BS thread #2

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Jan 2, 2013 | 07:50 PM
  #2986  
Quote:
Do waggys and keep it legal
Thats what im thinking
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Jan 2, 2013 | 08:37 PM
  #2987  
Quote:
Thats what im thinking
Do it.
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Jan 2, 2013 | 09:25 PM
  #2988  
So what do you guys think is a good price for a Dana 60 ball joint out of 93
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Jan 2, 2013 | 09:57 PM
  #2989  
Quote: Should I just do 44 waggys or go all out and do a 60 and 44
Do a narrowed D60 front, and a CCV(62" wide) 14BFF rear. It would be only 2" wider then waggys, and only need 1 custom shaft. the "wider" part is an easy fix with wheel offset. (as far as keeping the tires covered)

Waggy's have served me well don't get me wrong, but its the same amount of work, re-dueing the brakes/steering/both diffs/gears/axle brackets/suspension(arms/geometry ect) drive-lines.... The only REAL difference in parts is the cost of the axles them self's(and narrowing if you choose to). W/E you do, run cross over steering, was one of the best upgrades for street use I did to mine. I was about $1900 total after my rebuilding/locking/gearing and installing my waggys/LA's/steering/ect.

I am interested to know why you want to swap axles, you haven't broken one have you? what is giving you the feeling you need them? planing on running 37+? not trying to discourage you just curious. sometimes I wish I would have kept it a bit more basic as I did a lot of upgrading for "peace of mind" but probably would never would have had an issue lol
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Jan 2, 2013 | 09:59 PM
  #2990  
Quote: So what do you guys think is a good price for a Dana 60 ball joint out of 93
Any ball joint D60 100-200$. they are all over the JY for 150$ all day long.
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Jan 2, 2013 | 10:03 PM
  #2991  
Quote:
Any ball joint D60 100-200$. they are all over the JY for 150$ all day long.
Cool same guy selling a 60 and sterling for 500 was just not sure if I should invest in it
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Jan 2, 2013 | 10:07 PM
  #2992  
Quote: Cool same guy selling a 60 and sterling for 500 was just not sure if I should invest in it
Not a bad deal, but you could go pull them yourself for 300ish. That is how Tom got his, and the axles he is running.
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Jan 2, 2013 | 10:12 PM
  #2993  
I'll just stick with my 44 for now just thought it was worth the input
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Jan 2, 2013 | 10:46 PM
  #2994  
Quote:
Do a narrowed D60 front, and a CCV(62" wide) 14BFF rear. It would be only 2" wider then waggys, and only need 1 custom shaft. the "wider" part is an easy fix with wheel offset. (as far as keeping the tires covered)

Waggy's have served me well don't get me wrong, but its the same amount of work, re-dueing the brakes/steering/both diffs/gears/axle brackets/suspension(arms/geometry ect) drive-lines.... The only REAL difference in parts is the cost of the axles them self's(and narrowing if you choose to). W/E you do, run cross over steering, was one of the best upgrades for street use I did to mine. I was about $1900 total after my rebuilding/locking/gearing and installing my waggys/LA's/steering/ect.

I am interested to know why you want to swap axles, you haven't broken one have you? what is giving you the feeling you need them? planing on running 37+? not trying to discourage you just curious. sometimes I wish I would have kept it a bit more basic as I did a lot of upgrading for "peace of mind" but probably would never would have had an issue lol
I really dont want to do all that work and dont really want to spend all that money u know but it is for piece of mind as well I bent my dang drag link again on my front end and just tired of being small but at the same time of worried im going to break it wj nuckles are expensive to do tge crossover steering.
I here you can also sleave your tie rods with dom u know but I found a diff steering set up it is the 1 ton set up

Im not planning on running 37s I really just want to stay with 35s but its going to be a while
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Jan 2, 2013 | 10:46 PM
  #2995  
This is the one I may be getting

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Jan 3, 2013 | 09:57 AM
  #2996  
Quote: This is the one I may be getting
that the seriouse off road setup? or IRO? can't tell from the pic.

I would get hiems, run a 250 wall dom upper tube, and a 250 wall, sleved with 120 wall dom for the lower, tapped for hiems and jam nuts. would be pretty bullet proof, and cost should be the same or slightly more...

Either way IF you buy the "1ton" steering upgrade get a kit that you can get off the shelf joints for it, that way any parts store should have them. some kits are "one of a kind" joints and can only get them threw the company that sells the kit.
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Jan 3, 2013 | 10:51 AM
  #2997  
Just to clarify, cross over was a huge change in steering feel/response. but I would only do it with an axle swap, the D30 is not worth putting more $$ then you have to into it, but should handle 35's no problems, alloys are a lot cheaper then an axle swap for "peice of mind" I would put the $$ into long arms, alloys, lockers, gears ect unless your planning to "go all out"

but this is YOUR RIG and YOUR money . do with it what YOU wnat to make WHAT YOU want to drive/wheel.
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Jan 3, 2013 | 12:30 PM
  #2998  
Quote: Just to clarify, cross over was a huge change in steering feel/response. but I would only do it with an axle swap, the D30 is not worth putting more $$ then you have to into it, but should handle 35's no problems, alloys are a lot cheaper then an axle swap for "peice of mind" I would put the $$ into long arms, alloys, lockers, gears ect unless your planning to "go all out"

but this is YOUR RIG and YOUR money . do with it what YOU wnat to make WHAT YOU want to drive/wheel.
Ya for sure man thanks for for tge input ya that steering set has the chevy one ton tie rods im picking it up used for 50 bucks so I hope its worth it so that os considered cross over then
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Jan 3, 2013 | 07:16 PM
  #2999  
Selling two wheels. Black steelies.. 17x9 5x5.5 with 2.5" bs. Used on my jeep for about 8 months. Have some rock rash but aren't bent. 75 bucks.
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Jan 3, 2013 | 08:26 PM
  #3000  
I just found my intake that I had on ol blue came from a civic, first 15 bucks takes it(air filter not included)
Also I still have the 99 s10 springs that are uncut with good bushings for 50 bucks
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