1TON are you running leafs front and rear or how is your setup ? I cant tell from the pics you have. and what kind of steering are you running.. to push those 39.5's are you running a hydro assist or something?

Nevermind I just read over your profile lol.. how much work was the hydro assist setup?

 

The steering would be easy to add hydro assist with a basic tractor supply ram and porting your own box...I did not set it up B/C it was in the shop and I wanted it trail ready comming out , And Josh did not want the old set up being seen comming out of his shop...lol...So I let him do A Psc box and AGR ram with all new links...CrawlerTech set that up so well it drives like like stock on 40's...But you could do assist on your own for far less with a ram from tractor supply and porting you stock box...the porting diagrams are all over the web , and it's not hard , And with those ports you run 2 hydraulic lines to the ram which you will mount to the axle and tie rod ...I've seen it mounted on drag link...in a location that clears everything while cycling the steering ...this makes turning easy and since mounted to the axle and tie rod it takes a ton of stress of the steering box...I'm thinking full hyrdo will be my next set up completely eliminating the drag link/steering box frame tie in .

 

Stock TR location was or is stronger? im confused.. I know at points I have hell with pushing into a obsticale with my stock box.. Im am just running stock steering with the exception of a zj tr.. so I know I need to do some major upgrading to that area of my heep. Just trying to get a feeler for what I am looking at in terms of work to upgrade to close to what your running. ( I dont really have a desire to move up from 35's)

 

On the dana 60 the stock casting for the tie rod are way stronger than drilling into the top of the kuckle and bolting on a HI-steer arm to the top of a stock Knuckle due to material thickness and leverage at the top of the Knuckle , So i'm just using that HI-steer arm for the drag link ...the 60 Tie rod location is still way higher than a d30 , But I'll be getting New Crane Knuckles shortly and going back to Full HI-steer ...


A tractor supply ram and a ported stock XJ box will easily turn 35's ...Also you could look into a steering box Like a Durango ...I think the Durango box has less turning radius than the xJ , And I think a ram box works but has better turning radius than the Durango I think these boxes have a bigger piston in them thus more hydraulic force for turning wheels ...PSC also makes an XJ box with a massive Pistion in it ,But by saying PSC I just said $600.00 ...But for 35's a box with a bigger piston amd plating up your steering box frame rail tie in will be plenty to keep turning the wheels and not rip it off the rail ...even if locked up front .

 

I want some beef in the steering! I dont want to have to worry about bending my **** when I go wheeling.. maybe since I dont plan on running any larger rubbers I could get by with the durango or ported with 1ton steering components.. I just know I tend to break something everytime I go out. although It always manages to get me back I get tired of my steering being loose/alignment being effed etc etc...

 

I think in the past month or two I have managed to destroy my TR/DL/Track bar etc.. getting old.

 

Tie rods and drag link getting destroyed ...will keep getting destroyed even with a new box or ram set up since those simply make it easier to turn the wheel ,but the force on the parts you're bending will be the same actually more since there will be more force to turn the wheels with ... Look into a full DOM steering link set up or something like 1.5 solid my tie rod is 1.5 inch high alloy Solid ...it does not flinch even when jamming a tire into a 48 inch tall rock and climbing it ... So replace the Links with something aftermarket and Beef and plate up the steering box and then add something like the Rusty's steering box brace that ties the steering box into both frame rails ...then you can see if steering is easier with linkage that is not twisting while you try to steer , and then look into a bigger box or ram assists ...My friends Jeep the Chinakee sometimes has problems turning the wheels with his stock XJ box , But he's running 40's and locked up front , but his steering only consists of DOM steering links and braced box ...So I'd immagine if he's turning locked 40's like that then you should be able to turn un-locked 35's .

 

Yeah Im sure its just when I go wheeling I always end up with something bent lol I will look into the DOM steering. Thanks!

 

Anyone in the denver aurora are have a spare track bar for 6.5 lift??? My dd needs one,im out of a car I wanna drive my baby! If anyone has a trackbar for 6.5 inches hit me up 7202407744

 

What happened to the one you have/had on there?

 

Sold the one it wudnt fit

 

Ok so let's brain storm here. I changed out my rear main seal about 6 months ago and my oil pan still leaked from near the back of the pan. About a week and a half ago, I changed out the gasket, again, with black rtv and a rubber gasket. It still leaks from near the back of the pan. What really ticks me off is when I first turn the jeep on, my oil pressure gauge runs at 60 out of 80 when normal is 40. It stays like that til I really drive for a while and the jeep warms up. Then it alternates from idle at 20 then 40 when I drive. Could this whole gauge thing be the result of my oil leak?

 

i had the same problem with my pan leaking on one of my xj's. after replacing the rear main and pan gasket twice i talked with my buddy that works at a jeep dealer.

he said to use anerobic sealer with the gasket instead of rtv and it would never leak again.

so i used the anerobic sealer on the pan where the front and rear mains sit, along with the gasket. never had a leak again!!

you can get the anerobic sealer from napa.

hope that helps.

 

So my friend said he would by my xj last night for $3500 here is a list of what it has
Jcr #2 front bumper
Oem tire carrier
Street lock wheels 5
5 bfg at 33x10.50x15
Roof rack
Aussie rear locker
Cb radio
Also it's a se edition for manual windows and locks
3.07 gears
4.5" lift lower and upper adj control arms
Has 215,000 miles
Also clutch has about 15,000 on it
Receiver hitch

You guys think that's a good price to sell to him for

 

I'd say that's pretty fair, esp if he is offering.