Pacific Northwest Washington, Oregon, Alaska

Would you buy it for $1000?

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Old Feb 21, 2013 | 10:53 PM
  #16  
caged's Avatar
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From: Northern Ontario, Canada
Year: 1990, 1999, 2000
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i love my renix.
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Old Feb 21, 2013 | 10:59 PM
  #17  
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From: Spanaway
Year: 97
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
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It may be a d44 also right? Damn its hard looking at a Jeep on the other side of the country!
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Old Feb 21, 2013 | 11:59 PM
  #18  
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From: Yakima
Year: 1990
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The renix system is not that bad. The motor itself is just as bullet proof as any other model year 4.0, ask my jeep.

The closed cooling system is a pain, but its as simple as putting in a newer model radiator to get rid of that problem.

I pulled the head off my motor on monday in less than an hour, the gasket is a pretty easy fix if you have worked on these jeeps at all.

for 1000, no. for 500$, id buy it all day. If hes worried about the motor and not being able to fix it. Swap the motor with a running jy motor for 3-400 and you have yourself a pretty decent jeep for >1000.

My blue jeep is a 90 and it has been through hell and back, tore up and down, i know alot about the system so if you have any questions shoot me a pm.

The braking system people are referring to is the abs system that were in some 87-89 jeeps, the bendix peice of ****. That also can be remedied with a few simple part swaps. The bendix system is so bad the govmt made chrysler put a lifetime warranty recall on the accumulator, pump, and master cylinder.
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Old Feb 22, 2013 | 01:23 AM
  #19  
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From: pacific northwest
Year: 2000
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add what he can get it for. the cost of a new engine from the wreckin yard and install if he has it done. take that cost and compare to buying one running with no issues that he can actually check out the brakes, cooling system, trans, diff cases. t-case and electrics.... not being able to drive it opens up a whole bunch of other issues he wont know about till the engine runs. possibly
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Old Feb 22, 2013 | 11:00 AM
  #20  
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From: Spanaway
Year: 97
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Hes never worked on jeeps aside from helping me swap a lift once but knows how to wrench so Im sure he can figure it out with our help of course.
My first suggestion was to buy it and swap in a new engine but I think he is gonna do the head gasket, Im not sure. I think hes going to go look at it today, thanks for the good info guys
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Old Feb 22, 2013 | 11:56 AM
  #21  
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So he bought it for $800 and unkinked a radiator hose and drove it home lol. Thanks guys
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Old Feb 22, 2013 | 12:06 PM
  #22  
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From: Oak Harbor, WA.
Year: 1987
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Engine: 4.0 liter RENIX I-6, DIY Cold Air Intake, 2.5 FM Exhaust, 3 Core Radiator
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Awesome!!! I love hearing stories that end like that. So, did it have the D44 rear end? Some 87-89 Cherokees with the towing package had them. I sure was hoping I'd have a similar situation with my new Jeep but, my poking and probing around revealed that something pretty drastic happened in cylinder number 5. So, there is no issue with the head gasket at all then?
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Old Feb 22, 2013 | 02:16 PM
  #23  
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I dont know yet but it seems ok. Hes going to change all the fluids and put some miles on it and see what happens. I dont know if it has a d44 yet.
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Old Mar 2, 2013 | 02:51 PM
  #24  
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Im no expert but this is a D44 right?

Also the jeep wont shift into 4wd, the front end is not engaging? I said check vacuum lines? Are there any other obvious things that would cause it not to have 4wd?

I helped him find his region and the tech section but I remember what a PITA it was navigating this forum back in the day lol. Thanks for your help guys

Last edited by mudderx; Apr 13, 2013 at 09:43 AM.
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Old Mar 2, 2013 | 03:41 PM
  #25  
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From: Oak Harbor, Wa
Year: 1987
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Looks like a D35.
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Old Mar 2, 2013 | 03:49 PM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by 1987XJ
Looks like a D35.
DOH! Now that you mention it it does look like a 35 doesnt it.
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Old Mar 2, 2013 | 05:48 PM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by NWhunter
I also forgot to mention... I've had problems with the turn single lever. Nothing on it ever worked right... and every older Jeep I've seen had issues with it.
My 98 is temperamental about the blinkers. They work but it rarely cancels, amd sometimes doesn't want to keep the left blinker on.
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Old Mar 2, 2013 | 09:55 PM
  #28  
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From: Yakima
Year: 1990
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Originally Posted by mudderx
Im no expert but this is a D44 right?

Also the jeep wont shift into 4wd, the front end is not engaging? I said check vacuum lines? Are there any other obvious things that would cause it not to have 4wd?

I helped him find his region and the tech section but I remember what a PITA it was navigating this forum back in the day lol. Thanks for your help guys
Yes its a d35. Have him look at the vaccuum lines going into 4xd actuator housing on the passenger side of the front axle. Also look at the lines coming out of the tcase. Those are the two break points that happen most often.

What tcase does he have?

Tell him to check the linkage on the tcase also, they can be out of adjustment!
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Old Mar 3, 2013 | 02:34 AM
  #29  
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From: Oak Harbor, WA.
Year: 1987
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Engine: 4.0 liter RENIX I-6, DIY Cold Air Intake, 2.5 FM Exhaust, 3 Core Radiator
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A trick I learned awhile back when my 91 still had a vacuum actuated front axle was to remove the 4 bolts from the actuator on the right side of the front axle and pull it off. Then flip it upside down. Slide the ring on the axle splines over to where the "U" link lines up with it and the 4 bolt holes and slide the "U" into the groove in the ring. Then install the 4 bolts back into the actuator and tighten them. This in effect takes away the Jeeps lock and unloock vaccum actuation. However with a stock open differential in the front axle and as long as he is in 2WD Hi it should drive normal. Then when he does shift his T-Case into 4WD hi or low, his 4WD will work normal, too. Those vacuum disconnects are garbage and not even needed. That is why with the 92 year model and later XJs they did away with it.
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Old Apr 21, 2013 | 01:05 PM
  #30  
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From: Carrollton Georgia
Year: 1989 Jeep Cherokee
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Engine: 4.0L I6 EFI "Power Tech" - 177 hp @ 4750 rpm, 220 ft lb @ 4000 rpm
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ok so I bought the jeep for 800 and it turns out the rear main is bad on it and guess what you have to drop the transmission to get the oil pan out to get to the rear main.... urgh
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