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Old Dec 31, 2012 | 03:03 PM
  #16  
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Year: 1995
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before and after
Attached Thumbnails new member new jeep looking for some help wa-5.jpg   new member new jeep looking for some help wa-7.jpg  
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Old Dec 31, 2012 | 03:20 PM
  #17  
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From: Federal Way, WA
Year: 1997
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Engine: 4.0L I6
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Originally Posted by mudhawk
before and after
some fender trimming in the near future.
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Old Dec 31, 2012 | 04:06 PM
  #18  
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Originally Posted by outlawcherokee
tell yourself that when your rear driveline or u-joint breaks on the trail, you'll be wishing you had an sye .
So when you have an sye an you break a u joint or driveline on the trail then you just broke an expensive driveline or your replacing a u joint anyways! I'm a little over 5" lift in the rear with a 1 inch t case drop stock driveline works great! Actually more than great cuz you can acquire an entire spare shaft for around 20 bucks an toss it in the back! That or go ahead spend a couple hundred bucks on your sye an driveline I don't care lol
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Old Dec 31, 2012 | 05:09 PM
  #19  
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From: puyallup
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started fender triming today not done yet but gives me a good idea. i started a build thread too i got a lot left and really appericate ideas and advice thanks again everyone. oh yeah build is project seattle mudhawk
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Old Dec 31, 2012 | 05:29 PM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by fullthrottlejake

So when you have an sye an you break a u joint or driveline on the trail then you just broke an expensive driveline or your replacing a u joint anyways! I'm a little over 5" lift in the rear with a 1 inch t case drop stock driveline works great! Actually more than great cuz you can acquire an entire spare shaft for around 20 bucks an toss it in the back! That or go ahead spend a couple hundred bucks on your sye an driveline I don't care lol
Doing a lift then dropping your t case back down an inch is a waste. Lifts are for better ground clearance and youre lowering it back down when you do a t case drop. Theyre a band aid to cover up vibes. The fix is an sye and driveshaft. Do it right or dont do it at all.

Also, just because it works for your xj doesnt mean it will for his. When it comes to vibes etc every jeep is different and will react different as well.

He asked for info and help and we are giving it.
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Old Dec 31, 2012 | 05:46 PM
  #21  
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From: Spanaway
Year: 97
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You can use a 5 spd crossmember for 3/4 " drop and if you need to aftermarket motor mounts. But a sye would be better in the long run.

Last edited by mudderx; Dec 31, 2012 at 05:52 PM.
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Old Dec 31, 2012 | 06:02 PM
  #22  
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Year: 1988
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My driveline is cheap it's a front driveline off a stock cherokee available at any wrecking yard.
And if you break to the point of not being able to put a driveline back in you will be done at that point as your slip yoke will fall out and leak fluid.
A sye eliminates the slip yoke, meaning when you break beyond repair you pull the rear shaft off and can still drive without leaking fluid.
And as others have stated eliminating vibes as well, although mine never had vibes without the sye or drop kit for the cross member but many have.

By the way the jeep is looking good, now time to go get it muddy.
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Old Dec 31, 2012 | 06:05 PM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by mudhawk
started fender triming today not done yet but gives me a good idea. i started a build thread too i got a lot left and really appericate ideas and advice thanks again everyone. oh yeah build is project seattle mudhawk
Aren't those directional tires? because they look like they are on backwards.
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Old Dec 31, 2012 | 06:48 PM
  #24  
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From: puyallup
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good eye i just have them on to see how it looks and tighten some things up but good lookin i prob would of forgoten
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Old Dec 31, 2012 | 06:49 PM
  #25  
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i have to put on an adj track bar there is no way the stock one will go back on. right? do i hook back up the rear sway bar?
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Old Dec 31, 2012 | 07:04 PM
  #26  
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i have 4.5 of lift no sye using a ax15 dana 35 drive line and a yj front yoke.
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Old Dec 31, 2012 | 07:41 PM
  #27  
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what all did you have to take out of the yj and will it all just bolt on thanks
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Old Dec 31, 2012 | 07:54 PM
  #28  
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I got rid on my t case drop and the issue was that front yoke was pulled out almost two inchs on the tcase. this ment the drive line was to short for my lift. xjs came with many different lengths of driveline and the yj slip yoke is around 1/2 inch longer than a xj swapped the yokes when changing the front u joint and used a dana 35 drive line which is the longest. I have a 8.25 rear end which is the second longest and the dana 44 being the shortes of the drivlines.
right now my yoke is only around 3/4inch pulled out of the tcase and i didnt loose ground clearance. i will say though when i go up another inch ill need a sye.
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Old Dec 31, 2012 | 08:59 PM
  #29  
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From: Federal Way, WA
Year: 1997
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Get yourself a grinder, If you dont have one... A cheapo 4 1/2 inch grind can be obtained for 45$. You want to to figure out about how much you want to trim, For me... It was roughly 1 1/4 inch. I went ever 3 inchs and cut into the fender using the grinder about 1 1/4 inch in. Repeat process till the whole fender has notch's. Take hammer and / or pliers and fold back the metal tucking it away in the fender well. If dont right, It will look factory. Cheers.
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Old Dec 31, 2012 | 09:10 PM
  #30  
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From: Federal Way, WA
Year: 1997
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Originally Posted by Keaton
Doing a lift then dropping your t case back down an inch is a waste. Lifts are for better ground clearance and youre lowering it back down when you do a t case drop. Theyre a band aid to cover up vibes. The fix is an sye and driveshaft. Do it right or dont do it at all.

Also, just because it works for your xj doesnt mean it will for his. When it comes to vibes etc every jeep is different and will react different as well.

He asked for info and help and we are giving it.
Lifting your Jeep doesn't give you ground clearance dude. Putting a lift on your rig opens up your wheel well's to fit a bigger tire in which gives you ground clearance. You can do a 6 1/2" long arm and your diff is still the same height off the ground(Assuming your running stock P235 75 R15).
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