So I want to do a lift for my 91 xj and I'm no sure about what parts I need, I want about 3.5" to 4" so I can clear 31" tires. I will eventually buy a lift set but I want to test the waters first. Just for fun. What all do I need? Just coils shocks and leafs? I've read about s10 leaf springs and lots of dofferent coils for the front. Someone wanna dumb it down and help a fella out?

 

Junk yard parts that will work
Suspension & Lift:
1. ZJ V8 Upcountry Coils = 1-1.5" lift
2. F-150/Bronco Coils ('70s-ish) = 4-4.5" lift
3. S10 (P/U or Blazer) leaf packs (cut eyes off S10 main and bolt pack under XJ main) = 3-4" lift (may require use of degree shims)
4. Dakota Bastard Pack (do same as with S10 pack) = ~4" lift
5. JK shocks = slight mod to fit 2-4" lift (some dispute)
6. MJ Shackles = 1/2" lift
7. Camaro Spring Isolators = 1.5" lift
8. Full size Blazer Bastard Pack (do same as S10 pack) = 4-4.5" lift (may require use of shims) may be stiffer than S10 leafs
9. ZJ spring isolators = stronger, metal core, can be stacked
10. GM fullsize pickup shackles ('95-99) = 1.5" lift, better shackle angle
11. Thunderbird Front Coils ('83-97) = 3-4" lift (varies in lift and softness by year and trim package), will need top plate from strut too
12. Any 2.5" wide leaf spring can be used between to make a bastard pack (they may differ in stiffness and lift)
13. S10 Shocks (Rear only) = good for the lift you will get when you do a bastard pack
14. TJ Lift Coils (front only) = provide 1" less lift on an XJ than on a TJ

Brakes:
1. WJ brake booster
2. WJ Master Cylinder
3. YJ Brake Lines = 3-4" longer
4. Dodge Ram Van Brake Lines = 10-12" longer (for big lifts)
5. WJ Rotors/Calipers = bigger brakes and more stopping power (will fit 15" rims)
6. ZJ brake booster, master cylinder, proportioning valve = may need for disc conversion
7. XJ '95+ brake booster and master cylinder = dual diaphragm
8. Dakota Rear Softlines ('95-00) = 6" longer
9. GM C/K1500 Front Softlines ('90-95) = 6" longer
10. KJ disc brake set-ups can be used for a conversion on your XJ axle

Axles:
1. Ford 8.8 inch ('97+) = need spring & shock mounts (3.55, 3.73, or 4.10, maybe LSD, Disc Brakes)
2. XJ I-4 & some V6 = may have 3.73, 4.10, or 4.56 gears may have vacuum discos
3. XJ C8.25 ('97+) = bolt in and upgrades to 29 spline (strength comparable to D44)
4. XJ D44 = found in some but not all '87-'89 XJ's with Towing Package
5. Lincoln Lockers = welded spider gears, operates like a spool, must be a GOOD welder
6. MJ D44 = need new spring perches and shock mounts
7. XJ D30 = ('95-'99) non-disconnect, larger u-joints, high pinion, bolt in
8. Homebrew posi-locks for '84-90 vacuum disconnect D30s, eliminates vacuum actuation (use search function)

Front End & Steering:
1. ZJ V8 Tierods = beefier & bolt in
2. WJ Knuckles/Tierods/Draglinks = beefier and crossover steering
3. Durango Steering Box = beefier
4. 350 or 351 Power Steering Pump = helps with oversize tires (requires welding)
5. WJ LCA's = more tire clearance (some grinding required)
6. ZJ pitman arm = 1 inch drop over stock
7. WJ rear LCA's = replace XJ front LCA's, 2" longer to accommodate a lift, some grinding required
8. WJ power steering pump (fits '96+, plug return hole, and use XJ pulley)
9. V8 ZJ front sway-bar
10. JK rear UCA = use as XJ LCA, its about 1-2" longer

Engine/Transmission/T-case:
1. Newer XJ intakes (may require some modification)
2. Mustang 5.0 Injectors = near bolt in (have 4 holes instead of 1, more fuel, better spray)
3. ZJ V8 alternator = more power to run accessories (some grinding required) 136A
4. Ford Electric Fan ('90-95 3.8L Taurus, '87-93 5.0L Mustang) = replaces mechanical fan, more cooling (8C607)
5. 2.5L Dakota Alternator = bolt in, upgrades to 117A
6. Dodge Neon Injectors = better throttle response*
7. '94+ V6 Dakota AX-15 = bolt in (but must use XJ bellhousing)
8. ZJ and WJ stock tranny coolers with stacked plates (even an upgrade for us with the stock fin style)
9. 5spd crossmembers give 3/4 inch t-case drop on autos with no loss in ground clearance
10. Hoodvents (i.e. Lebaron, Laser, Turbo Thunderbird etc.) = help keep ur 4.0 cool at low speeds
11. You can convert the closed system to open without replacing your radiator by using the fill cap from a 4.7 durango or dakota, cutting it into your upper hose, and replace your bottle with an MJ overflow tank or any that fit. Then cap off or eliminate the T'ed lines in the heater core.
12. Homebrew Slip Yoke Eliminator (use search function)


Body/Interior/Armor:
1. 97+ mirrors are direct bolt in to older XJ's and allow you to fold them in on tight trails.
2. MJ/2 Door XJ Bucket seats = tilt forward, bolt in
3. ZJ gas tank skid = can be modified to fit 97+
4. GM power antennas replace your broken XJ's with little modification
5. XJ '97+ doors onto older cherokees = one piece windows and better mirrors
6. XJ overhead console = most commonly found in '00-01 or higher trim level, provides space for switches etc.
7. '97+ center console = can be made to fit '96 and older, gives you cupholders!
8.'96-00 Ford Explorer hatch shocks = lift your hatch about 3" lower but are beef (ever see one that doesn't work?) need modification for '97+
9. OEM skid plates (Front, Tranny, T-case, gas tank, found on "up-country" package XJ's)
10. OEM swing-out tire carriers, get the bumper with it, found mainly on '84-'90 XJ's

 

Personally i used tbird coils and a dodge dakota leaf set for my lift. I also have coil spacers and extended shackles. You will need to get new center-pins and u bolts for the bastard leaf pack and new shocks and an extended brake line in the rear. The front brakes you can just relocate. You will also need new leaf clips witch are only like 5 bucks for a set but worth it to keep your leafs straight. I would also recommend buying some spray for the leafs to keep them from squeaking. Also, if you pull the tbird coil you need to take the metal disk on the top so it will fit right around the spring seat.

 

Sweet thanks! Sounds like this would be right around 150$ right? Without the wheels and all, I'll save this and start Savin up!

 

Go for about 3 inches of lift and trim the fenders a little. Any more and most likely you have to think about a T-case drop or SYE.

 

Yeah that's what I'm thinking too

 

And i would buy a new track-bar! Don't cheep out on this one, buy a nice one.

 

not even close man... $150 will buy you a set of S10 leaf packs and new U-bolts. That still leaves centering pins you WILL NEED to replace, you will need 4 shocks, front coils or spacers. I did a 3.5 / 4 inch junkyard lift on my jeep and I thought I could get away with spending only 250$... I'm into the lift now about 600$ but that includes aftermarket HD track bar, 4 brand new Pro Comp shocks.

NOTE~ You will need an alignment done after lifting your jeep, and around here in the south sound... thats another 80 - 100$

 

Alright well ill start buyin parts slowly then! I'll get there eventually, once I get all the parts I'll put it all on, it's going to start snowing soon so I have some time to collect parts before next summer!

 

Prices must be different where you are... I got my leafs for 40$ off craigslist, could have pulled them myself at the junkyard for 16$ each pack. Centering pins are cheap and decent u bolts around 30$.
Then just get the coils and track bar (or drill a new hole) and figure out shocks.

Theres quite a few brand new 4.5" kits for less than 600$ And I've never seen a 3" for more than that.

 

Yah here in the south sound... prices are high for car parts. A friend of mine bought a BRAND NEW 4.5" lift for $320 off craigslist that included everything needed to do that job correctly, The only thing he had to buy was a new Track Bar... Which ended up being 160$ at 4 Wheel Parts brand new.

 

Well up here in Washington those parts are paperweights, everyone's got them so I could probly pick up a set for around 200$ and be just fine with everything I need, it's maple falls there's cars people dump off all the time around here I can scavenge lol