ZJ steering/suspension parts on an XJ?

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Jun 3, 2021 | 10:48 AM
  #1  
1989 XJ 4.0 4x4 Auto 119,000 miles Stock

I tried searching this but here lately I can't seem to find things on google as easily. Not sure if they changed algorithms or what. Chasing death wobble.

I have already replaced my Track Bar with a Moog.

But I will need to be replacing my Tie Rod Ends, Tie Rod, Drag Link, & Steering Stabilizer.

I was told by somebody that they believe those parts work off a 93 to 98 ZJ and are a direct fit, and are more heavy duty. Is this correct?

If I am going to replace them and it the price is very near the same of course I would prefer a stronger version. But don't want to buy something is not going to work and be a direct fit. I just want this death wobble gone and my ride to be somewhat smooth. This has been too long. Thank you.

PS: In the future (at some point) I will be doing new leafs and coils, as my leafs are getting to the point. I will be doing the HD leafs that give the ~1" Up Country height and coils that give ~1". Don't even want to bother with all that comes with the bigger lifts.
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Jun 3, 2021 | 12:36 PM
  #2  
ZJ tie rod, driver's side tie rod end and adjusting sleeve. That is the upgrade. Drag link and stabilizer you use XJ parts.
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Jun 3, 2021 | 01:12 PM
  #3  
ZJ parts must be for the V8 Grand Cherokee, and not the 4.0L

Moog MOG-DS1238 Draglink QTY 1

Moog MOG-DS1312 Tie rod QTY 1
Moog MOG-ES2079S Tie rod sleeve QTY 2
Moog MOG-ES3096L Tie rod end QTY 2

I bought all of my parts off of Summitracing.com, they give you free shipping on orders over 100.00. Also their customer service is second to none.
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Jun 3, 2021 | 04:01 PM
  #4  
Those parts will run me about $185. As somebody counting money all I can say is Dang. Plus a steering stabilizer is going to put me at about $220.

I mean I might could save some by not using Moog but who wants to put sub par parts on and them break in a few months or a year? Sure they have warranty and can be swapped out but who really wants to have to do that? Some things you just want to do once and be done for years because we all know other things will need changing and no need to add more on top of that.

And if the ZJ parts listed above are a direct fit and more heavy duty then it only makes sense to get them.

The stuff always hits me at the worst times.

Edit: Just seen the other post. Which one is correct? The one that list all the parts to use or the post that said only use part of the ZJ stuff? I need confirmation before ordering anything and now I have conflicting answers so I want to make really sure.
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Jun 3, 2021 | 06:47 PM
  #5  
Those are the parts that are on my 93 (same for your Jeep).



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Jun 3, 2021 | 07:47 PM
  #6  
Quote: Those are the parts that are on my 93 (same for your Jeep).


Ok. I wasn't doubting you on a personal level. Just wanted to be extra sure. I will order the stuff within the next day or so. The hardest part is finding the money right now ha. But it has to be done. This death wobble is ridiculous.
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Jun 4, 2021 | 02:03 PM
  #7  
I literally just bought these this week off Amazon lol. $160 total, just tie rod, drag link, ends and sleeves. I bought an OME stabilizer already. Get a monroe stabilizer, like $40? I've never used RC anything but I wouldn't lol.

Ordering a stock XJ drag link is correct. The other parts V8 ZJ. I used a thread that listed the PN needed I'll see if i can find it.
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Jun 4, 2021 | 05:12 PM
  #8  
Also what would be a good order to change this stuff in? Do one thing and then the next or what? I just don't want stuff shifting around if you understand the ignorant level of my question.

Should I jack it up or just leave it on the ground?

I'll do some research on how to change the parts, as I always do to be cautious. But since I'm changing a lot sort of at once I figured I ask in this thread.
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Jun 5, 2021 | 01:15 AM
  #9  
Try to take everything off in one piece. (keep the draglink, and the tie rod together)
That way you can better match Tie Rod to Tie Rod on the new parts. Basically match up the measurements on the new stuff to the old.
It will still be off, but it could get you to an alignment shop.
The other thing you could do is a driveway alignment, but I would still take it to get an alignment.




Lower left corner you can kinda see the Draglink / Tie Rods all together.


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Jun 5, 2021 | 01:24 AM
  #10  
Quote: Ok. The hardest part is finding the money right now ha. But it has to be done. This death wobble is ridiculous.
You checked your Track Bar, Upper Control Arm Bushings, and Ball Joints right?
I did not have "death wobble", but my ball joints, and bushings were toast.
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Jun 5, 2021 | 03:41 AM
  #11  
Quote: You checked your Track Bar, Upper Control Arm Bushings, and Ball Joints right?
I did not have "death wobble", but my ball joints, and bushings were toast.
Already replaced the Track Bar. It had play in it and no longer does so it needed it for sure. It helped make things feel better overall but still got the death wobble wanting to occur at around 50 to 55, when I hit bumps sometimes or also if the road curving (worse when left) and I turn into it so to speak. I can feel it wanting to do it. When ever it does trigger it is insane.

My tie rod ends seem to have some play in them and even look shot as the pictures above show. So is my steering stabilizer. I've been doing more research and some people swear that a bad steering stabilizer can cause DW. They replaced everything associated with DW and still had it until they replaced the steering stabilizer.

So what I will be changing next is the tie rods, drag link, and steering stabilizer as they feel like some play and visibily look worn. Hope to God that fixes it. If not I'll have to drive it and try to avoid the trigger as much as possible for a few weeks and move on to checking ball joints, etc, etc.

So many other things I could be doing to my jeep with this money that I really don't have anyway, but this death wobble has got to be solved. Did it to me last week coming up on a stop sign and the only thing I could do was let off the gas and pray it stopped in time for me to hit the brakes. Because hitting the brakes while it's death wobbling does not help. All I can do is let off the gas and let it slow down. I now only drive 45mph everywhere. It has only ever happened at 45 one time and it was when I hit a hard bump. Typically I am ok at 45mph.
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Jun 5, 2021 | 10:57 AM
  #12  
Quote: My tie rod ends seem to have some play in them and even look shot as the pictures above show. So is my steering stabilizer. I've been doing more research and some people swear that a bad steering stabilizer can cause DW. They replaced everything associated with DW and still had it until they replaced the steering stabilizer.
I had that on a 95 YJ that had 1.2" body lift and 30" tires. I replaced all the loose stuff which helped tremendously, but it would still wobble on occasion until I replaced the worn out stabilizer with a fairly new one I found at the junkyard. My old one had no resistance at all in the middle of the stroke. In my opinion, the stock design is marginal and gets worse when you lift and put on bigger tires. So while it shouldn't cause DW all by itself, a bad one can contribute to it (or at least fail to keep it under control).
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