Yes Another Death Wobble for hell
this morning i checked the toe an it was toed in over an 1 1/2inches ajusted the toe an now its goo to go . I will defently have it aligined once i have new tires on it . thank you all very mush for the ideas . Im still gona try an get some of the slop out of the box. .I cant beileive that a 3in kit made that much of a difference in the toe in . My zj never had any problems .
But thanks agin too all of you guys i really appreciate it
But thanks agin too all of you guys i really appreciate it
the death wobble is back . adjusted the toe in an it was fine now allof a sudden the DW is back agin . My paitence are wearing thin. im gone try an drill a hole an move the track bar over a little bit.
I have the EXACT problem right now! Have some new lower control arm bushings on the way and will have them installed Friday. I have a WJ with a Rusty's 4.5" kit. The wobble is HORRIBLE. Mostly at 42MPH and a funky grove in the road. Had it happen merging going about 60MPH last weekend...that will get the ole pucker factor up!!!
Will advise if the bushing replacement works.
It's aligned perfect, wheels are all balanced, and the rotars are new.
Will advise if the bushing replacement works.
It's aligned perfect, wheels are all balanced, and the rotars are new.
CF Veteran
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 6,588
Likes: 495
From: Chico, CA
Year: 1986
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.3L with headers and full 3" exhaust system
Yes. It takes a 5/8" wrench and an allen wrench Don't make it too tight. Just have someone wiggle the steering wheel back and forth and tighten it until you get instant movement from the pitman arm.
CF Veteran
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 3,513
Likes: 0
From: Aurora
Year: 1997 XJ
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 HO JASPER MOTOR
did you get a trac bar bracket with your kit? if so then the bracket could be moving. i had that problem on saturday. i ended up moving back into postion and then welding the bracket to the Origional bracket.
I have the EXACT problem right now! Have some new lower control arm bushings on the way and will have them installed Friday. I have a WJ with a Rusty's 4.5" kit. The wobble is HORRIBLE. Mostly at 42MPH and a funky grove in the road. Had it happen merging going about 60MPH last weekend...that will get the ole pucker factor up!!!
Will advise if the bushing replacement works.
It's aligned perfect, wheels are all balanced, and the rotars are new.
Will advise if the bushing replacement works.
It's aligned perfect, wheels are all balanced, and the rotars are new.
Received the lower control arm bushings in the mail yesterday, today getting ALL upper/lower control arm bushings replaced. Have HD steering stabilizer since lift. Was told to be SURE and have align it with a 7 degree positive castor and the rest to spec of the WJ. Will keep you posted!
Death Wobble
http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=89888
http://www.jeepin.com/features/trackbarfix/index.asp
CHECK THIS JEEPIN LINK…. I AM DOINT THIS FIRST>>
Curing death wobble is definetly a reality. Death wobble isn’t similar to a wobble from an unbalanced tire. It is by far worse. When death wobble hits you will know… it’s a violent shake form the front end that feels like the Jeep is about to fall apart. Usually when it happens the only thing you can do to stop it is slow down. The first steps to eliminate death wobble should be a visual inspection of each component, check the bushings, tire balance and an alignment. There are some common things you must check anytime you lift your Jeep. Death wobble is experienced mostly on lifter Jeeps, however it is not uncommon for someone without a lift to experience the dreaded DW. Listed below are a few things you can check.
Torque specs:
Item ........................................ Ft. lbs. ................... Nm
Lug nuts (1/2 X 20 w/ 60* cone) .... 85-115 .............. 115-150
All tie rod ends ............................ 55 ..................... 74
Steering (both ends) .................... 55 ..................... 74
Shock absorber upper nut .............. 16 ..................... 22
Shock absorber lower nuts ............. 17 ..................... 23
UCA frame end ............................. 66 ..................... 89
UCA axle end ............................... 55 ...................... 74
LCA frame end ............................. 85 ...................... 115
LCA axle end ............................... 85 ...................... 115
Track bar frame end ..................... 60 ...................... 81
Track bar axle end ....................... 40 ....................... 54
Track bar bracket bolts ................. 92 ....................... 125
Track bar bracket nut ................... 74 ....................... 100
Track bar bracket support bolts ...... 31 ....................... 42
Hub bolts (3) ............................... 75 ....................... 102
Hub- axle bolt .............................. 175 ..................... 237
Alingment specs (stock):
Angle ............. Preferred ........... Range ............. Max R/L diff.
Caster ............ +7.0* ........ +5.25* to +8.5* ......... 1.25*
Camber ........... -0.25* ....... -0.75* to +0.5 ........... 1.0*
Total Toe-in .... +0.25* ....... 0* to +0.45* ............. .05*
Thrust angle .... 0* to ± 0.15*
Check your Track Bar, play in this can cause the axle to shake.
1. Bushings - check to see that they are not worn. Looks for cracks, and excessive play)
2. Angles - this angle should be the same as your draglink. Use an angle finders you can get at sears to determine this, don’t just eye-ball it.
3. Bolts – Make sure all bolts are tightened down to spec (some lift components have a different torque spec then)
Check the Axle, your mounts may be worn
1. Check the axle mount. Here is a good write up on a wallowed out bolt hole
http://www.jeepin.com/features/trackbarfix/index.asp
2. Check your Universal joints, a binding or lose U-Joint can cause DW
3. On the frame end if you still use the conventional Tie Rod End or (TRE) make sure that there is no play in this, as play can cause DW.
4. Look/Check for worn/torn boots on ball joints/tie-rod ends.
Check your Tires
1. Out of balance tires can cause shaking in the front end, which can lead to death wobble.
2. Make sure all of your lug nuts are tight, (Sounds elementary but it happens to the best of us)
Check your Frame
1. Small cracks in the frame can cause the steering box to feel loose, Shaking from DW can only make this worse. 33’s and larger should have some form of Steering box brace, or frame brace in.
2. If you have upgraded your frame mount, make sure its cranked down nice and tight. (best to use an impact gun)
3. A busted Frame Mount can cause play in the front end causing DW (Keep a watchful eye on the welds as welds in sheer can break over time.
Make sure you have a good alignment
1. After you get an alignment done, have them print out the numbers for you. An XJ should have a 7* positive caster angle. A lifted XJ can’t always have that high of a number because the pinion would become out of alignment with the front driveshaft. Pinion angle takes precedence over caster.
2. Make you sure you go to a place that will adjust the caster if necessary (either by shims in the frame side of the LCAs, or adjustable LCAs).
The more adjustable parts the easier it is to tune in your suspension.
1. Adjustable Track Bar
2. Adjustable Upper and Lower Control Arms (upper ones above 4” of lift). Not only are they adjustable, but they are stronger.
Things to remember:
1. A Steering Stabilizer (SS) is not a quick fix for DW.
Entire list of everything that can cause death wobble:
-Front tires out of balance
-Front alignment out of spec
-Loose track bar
-Worn track bar bushings
-Worn track bar end
-Need adjustable track bar
-Bad bushings/joints in control arms
-Worn/damaged steering stabilizer
-Worn/damaged shocks
-Worn/damaged tie rod end
-Bad U Joint
-Bad ball joint
-Loose frame mount
-Steering box looseness
-Need drop pitman arm
-Driveshaft(s) not balanced
-Bad front hub assembly
http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=89888
http://www.jeepin.com/features/trackbarfix/index.asp
CHECK THIS JEEPIN LINK…. I AM DOINT THIS FIRST>>
Curing death wobble is definetly a reality. Death wobble isn’t similar to a wobble from an unbalanced tire. It is by far worse. When death wobble hits you will know… it’s a violent shake form the front end that feels like the Jeep is about to fall apart. Usually when it happens the only thing you can do to stop it is slow down. The first steps to eliminate death wobble should be a visual inspection of each component, check the bushings, tire balance and an alignment. There are some common things you must check anytime you lift your Jeep. Death wobble is experienced mostly on lifter Jeeps, however it is not uncommon for someone without a lift to experience the dreaded DW. Listed below are a few things you can check.
Torque specs:
Item ........................................ Ft. lbs. ................... Nm
Lug nuts (1/2 X 20 w/ 60* cone) .... 85-115 .............. 115-150
All tie rod ends ............................ 55 ..................... 74
Steering (both ends) .................... 55 ..................... 74
Shock absorber upper nut .............. 16 ..................... 22
Shock absorber lower nuts ............. 17 ..................... 23
UCA frame end ............................. 66 ..................... 89
UCA axle end ............................... 55 ...................... 74
LCA frame end ............................. 85 ...................... 115
LCA axle end ............................... 85 ...................... 115
Track bar frame end ..................... 60 ...................... 81
Track bar axle end ....................... 40 ....................... 54
Track bar bracket bolts ................. 92 ....................... 125
Track bar bracket nut ................... 74 ....................... 100
Track bar bracket support bolts ...... 31 ....................... 42
Hub bolts (3) ............................... 75 ....................... 102
Hub- axle bolt .............................. 175 ..................... 237
Alingment specs (stock):
Angle ............. Preferred ........... Range ............. Max R/L diff.
Caster ............ +7.0* ........ +5.25* to +8.5* ......... 1.25*
Camber ........... -0.25* ....... -0.75* to +0.5 ........... 1.0*
Total Toe-in .... +0.25* ....... 0* to +0.45* ............. .05*
Thrust angle .... 0* to ± 0.15*
Check your Track Bar, play in this can cause the axle to shake.
1. Bushings - check to see that they are not worn. Looks for cracks, and excessive play)
2. Angles - this angle should be the same as your draglink. Use an angle finders you can get at sears to determine this, don’t just eye-ball it.
3. Bolts – Make sure all bolts are tightened down to spec (some lift components have a different torque spec then)
Check the Axle, your mounts may be worn
1. Check the axle mount. Here is a good write up on a wallowed out bolt hole
http://www.jeepin.com/features/trackbarfix/index.asp
2. Check your Universal joints, a binding or lose U-Joint can cause DW
3. On the frame end if you still use the conventional Tie Rod End or (TRE) make sure that there is no play in this, as play can cause DW.
4. Look/Check for worn/torn boots on ball joints/tie-rod ends.
Check your Tires
1. Out of balance tires can cause shaking in the front end, which can lead to death wobble.
2. Make sure all of your lug nuts are tight, (Sounds elementary but it happens to the best of us)
Check your Frame
1. Small cracks in the frame can cause the steering box to feel loose, Shaking from DW can only make this worse. 33’s and larger should have some form of Steering box brace, or frame brace in.
2. If you have upgraded your frame mount, make sure its cranked down nice and tight. (best to use an impact gun)
3. A busted Frame Mount can cause play in the front end causing DW (Keep a watchful eye on the welds as welds in sheer can break over time.
Make sure you have a good alignment
1. After you get an alignment done, have them print out the numbers for you. An XJ should have a 7* positive caster angle. A lifted XJ can’t always have that high of a number because the pinion would become out of alignment with the front driveshaft. Pinion angle takes precedence over caster.
2. Make you sure you go to a place that will adjust the caster if necessary (either by shims in the frame side of the LCAs, or adjustable LCAs).
The more adjustable parts the easier it is to tune in your suspension.
1. Adjustable Track Bar
2. Adjustable Upper and Lower Control Arms (upper ones above 4” of lift). Not only are they adjustable, but they are stronger.
Things to remember:
1. A Steering Stabilizer (SS) is not a quick fix for DW.
Entire list of everything that can cause death wobble:
-Front tires out of balance
-Front alignment out of spec
-Loose track bar
-Worn track bar bushings
-Worn track bar end
-Need adjustable track bar
-Bad bushings/joints in control arms
-Worn/damaged steering stabilizer
-Worn/damaged shocks
-Worn/damaged tie rod end
-Bad U Joint
-Bad ball joint
-Loose frame mount
-Steering box looseness
-Need drop pitman arm
-Driveshaft(s) not balanced
-Bad front hub assembly
i have a 92 XJ that has a hell of a death wobble to it at 40-50 mph. can any body tell me the best remedy for it? i was told to replace the trac bar with an adjustable one and get rid of the ball joint style and get an upgraded trac bar with new mounting bracket.... any suggestions???
I would recommend replacing your UCA and LCA bushings if they are original. It was a definite cure after my lift. Its hard to see how bad they are worn out the rubber is until you unbolt and drop down a control arm.
Hi,
I've had my 2000 GC since new. It had horrendous wobble when braking into corners.at speed .... dealer skimmed brakes...still the same. New disks..... still the same . Found that stabbing the brake quickly and then easing off helped and drove it like that for ten years. During that time I changed my Wrangler tyres all 4 at a time at least 4 times.
Last year I replaced all four with Severo tyres. It was like a miracle......much more positive steering and not a trace of shake shimmy or wobble. That solved my problem.........now looking forward to another ten years!!!!!!!
I've had my 2000 GC since new. It had horrendous wobble when braking into corners.at speed .... dealer skimmed brakes...still the same. New disks..... still the same . Found that stabbing the brake quickly and then easing off helped and drove it like that for ten years. During that time I changed my Wrangler tyres all 4 at a time at least 4 times.
Last year I replaced all four with Severo tyres. It was like a miracle......much more positive steering and not a trace of shake shimmy or wobble. That solved my problem.........now looking forward to another ten years!!!!!!!


