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Old 09-21-2015, 03:49 PM
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Old 10-30-2015, 11:20 PM
  #51781  
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Originally Posted by cruiser54
No. Quit being a sissy and bleed the brakes.
Why don't you do it for me then! Seems like AMC and Chrysler don't mix in the brake department.
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Old 10-30-2015, 11:23 PM
  #51782  
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Originally Posted by unidentifiedbomb
Why don't you do it for me then! Seems like AMC and Chrysler don't mix in the brake department.
88 is AMC. Same as everything else for decades. Besides, brake fluid needs to be renewed every so often.
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Old 10-31-2015, 07:51 AM
  #51783  
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Originally Posted by cruiser54
88 is AMC. Same as everything else for decades. Besides, brake fluid needs to be renewed every so often.
Indeed. It's hygroscopic, which means it absorbs moisture from the air and becomes diluted. The system should be flushed as part of scheduled maintenance, and open bottles of brake fluid shouldn't be reused after a couple weeks
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Old 10-31-2015, 09:08 AM
  #51784  
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And Bomb, you do realize we're not busting your chops, right?

Clown is dead on in his comment also. Bleeding brakes is easy.

Whaddya need to know?
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Old 10-31-2015, 11:30 AM
  #51785  
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Originally Posted by cruiser54
And Bomb, you do realize we're not busting your chops, right?

Clown is dead on in his comment also. Bleeding brakes is easy.

Whaddya need to know?
I know guys. Just figured it would save time while doing it in a parking lot that's all. I bled the rear brakes when I swapped out my axle a couple months ago so i'll just do it again when swapping out the front. I know it's time to do it too.
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Old 10-31-2015, 12:45 PM
  #51786  
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MightyVac little hand-held vacuum pump.
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Old 10-31-2015, 02:53 PM
  #51787  
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I asked CCKEN about this on another thread but I really should have asked it in here. I was hoping someone could please point me to a diagram or picture of how my 97 fuel pump housing comes apart so I can replace the pump it's self? It may or may not be the original configuration. It could be an after market configuration because I have no idea if it has ever been changed. It is a spring loaded plastic/aluminum housing configuration obviously designed to fit tanks of different depths.


Any help with this would be greatly appreciated, I am too far from parts stores to chance breaking it!
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Old 10-31-2015, 03:02 PM
  #51788  
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The last few days when I start my 99 Cherokee Sport with the 4.0 does a few small pops (small backfire) power drops and then all is well until the next time I let it sit for over 30 minutes.

Any ideas what would cause this. I did disconnect the battery to work on a few things. After I get 1/4 mile no more pops and runs great.

Any help would be appreciated.

RSWiser
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Old 10-31-2015, 06:11 PM
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Originally Posted by kgm
Do they make huge ones of those? Thinking of slipping hose down my trans dipstick on my E-150 so I don't have to drop the pan since it has no drain plug. Then I can just yank the 6 quarts out by hand, LOLOL
Check this puppy out:

http://www.princessauto.com/en/detai...or/A-p8051633e

I am sure Harbor Freight has something similar.
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Old 10-31-2015, 08:51 PM
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Originally Posted by RSWiser
The last few days when I start my 99 Cherokee Sport with the 4.0 does a few small pops (small backfire) power drops and then all is well until the next time I let it sit for over 30 minutes.
probably low fuel pressure or weak ignition. the fuel pump and the coil can shrink when cold and either can produce these symptoms
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Old 11-01-2015, 06:36 AM
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Originally Posted by Bugout4x4
I asked CCKEN about this on another thread but I really should have asked it in here. I was hoping someone could please point me to a diagram or picture of how my 97 fuel pump housing comes apart so I can replace the pump it's self? It may or may not be the original configuration. It could be an after market configuration because I have no idea if it has ever been changed. It is a spring loaded plastic/aluminum housing configuration obviously designed to fit tanks of different depths.


Any help with this would be greatly appreciated, I am too far from parts stores to chance breaking it!

There is a tutorial thread on this out there. I didn't save it and would have to search for it myself - like you'll have to do. As I recall it was a good tutorial.


Edit: If you doo change the pump only, change the pressure regulator/filter as well.
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Old 11-01-2015, 07:08 AM
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Default Thank you Ken

Originally Posted by CCKen
There is a tutorial thread on this out there. I didn't save it and would have to search for it myself - like you'll have to do. As I recall it was a good tutorial.


Edit: If you doo change the pump only, change the pressure regulator/filter as well.

Thank you for the feedback on this Sir. I figured out how it comes apart. The three flat fingers that come down from the plastic top into the aluminum can just hook onto barbs inside the can. The only trick was squeezing all three fingers at the same time to unhook them from the barbs. I carefully used a zip tie to help squeeze and hold these and the spring pushed it apart fine.


I took a self explanatory picture and will post it for others that run into this. You have such a fantastic treasure trove of this stuff I had to ask Thank you so much for your time to reply Sir!


10-4 on the regulator and filter, thanks!

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Old 11-01-2015, 01:58 PM
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Originally Posted by Joecam18
Wouldnt the cruise control light stay on even if it was a vacuum issue? mine shuts off after a few seconds without me touching anything
bump
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Old 11-01-2015, 02:24 PM
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Originally Posted by Joecam18
bump
Who knows? You sure YOU don't have a vacuum issue?
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Old 11-01-2015, 08:50 PM
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Originally Posted by cruiser54
Who knows? You sure YOU don't have a vacuum issue?

Just gonna take it to a shop
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