cruiser54

He surprises us once in a great while...JK!!!

Chatham, eh? I lived in Stephentown as a kid.

amottier

I've got a 90 XJ that stays in part-time mode all the time unless going fast uphill (80km+) and I can't get full time to engage ever. The maybe odd thing is when I do shift to 4H I hear a grinding noise up front (a separate issue) but never hear that noise when it's just in part time. That shouldn't be normal, yeah? Because the part-time light being on should mean I'm in 4wd...and that should be the same drive as shifting to 4H? Correct me on any points here, please. Why can't I get full time going? Or part-time to stop?

Merkin Jeep

I have a 2000 XJ (111k)..when starting out there is a grinding noise which seems to be slower than road speed. I jacked each wheel up and the wheels are tight and no odd sounds when spun. Pads and rotors look good.Diff oil is topped up and looks normal. Did the NASCAR wiggle driving and the noise did not change when loading and unloading the front end. This makes me think it's not the wheel bearings.

What else should I look at?

cruiser54

Here's how the factory suggests you shift the transfer case and I've been doing this since these things were new and I worked at the dealership. Quoted from the owner's manual. The suggestions in CAPS are mine.

"To engage, shift the transfer case lever from 2H to 4H while the vehicle is moving at any legal speed". I LET OFF THE GAS, THROW THE LEVER, TAP THE GAS AND LET OFF.

4L position: " To engage, slow the vehicle to 2-3 MPH , shift the transmission to Neutral, then shift the transfer lever to the right and pull firmly rearward to 4L".

TO SHIFT OUT OF 4L, SHIFT THE TRANSMISSION INTO NEUTRAL WITH THE VEHICLE STOPPED, SHIFT THE TRANSFER CASE LEVER TO 2H, THEN THE TRANS TO D IF YOU HAVE AN AUTOMATIC, OR INTO FIRST GEAR WITH A MANUAL, AND CONTINUE ON.

Revised 11/20/2014

Velcro

Is it a manual or automatic, 4WD?

Does it increase in frequency with engine speed? Or does it just seem like it's less that road speed (like 3-4 times less)?

If it's only while the engine is cold, you may have a bearing somewhere, I'd be surprised at your mileage though. How does your engine oil look? Drain and inspect it and check for abnormal amounts of metal shavings.

If it's only while your at low speed, my guess is a bad gear/clutch(s)/torque converter in your transmission. See if it does it while in reverse and if the automatic lets you, in 2nd. Check the trans fluid for shavings.

If I'm reading the when starting out part wrong, and it's all the time...

When it's not matching up with the speedometer it's basically going to be something in your engine, transmission, transfer case, or driveshafts. Just what I usually do here (working my way back): Check backing plates behind rotors, it needs a good bit of clearance. Then see if it does it while stopped revving the engine. Check your fan to see if that's catching on something. Then see if it does it in reverse. Check driveshaft weights, to see if one came off. Check the u-joints. See if it does it in 4HI/LO.

Let us know if any of that helps. Basically just try to narrow it down. If all else fails find a good mechanic or a friend who's good with cars and have them test drive.

ThatDude114

When you guys relocate the IAT how did you splice the wires? Crimp or solder? I was going to use a crimp with heat shrink on it but I know the added resistance can sometimes mess with sensor readings

ehall

There's no resistance issue with crimping, even the factory stuff is crimped. The real issue is that crimps fail due to a lack of strain relief, resulting in the wires breaking or coming loose. Best method I have found is get a simple barrel crimp and remove the outer plastic shell, slide some heatshrink over one of the wires, crimp the bare barrel, and cover with the heatshrink for insulation and strain relief. Double up on the heat shrink or wrap it in tape if you want.

ThatDude114

Really? That's good to know. I had been told awhile ago when repairing an O2 wire harness not to use crimps because they added resistance. I normally use a plain barrel crimp and adhesive lined heatshrink for a good seal. Thanks for the help!

ehall

I don't think I have ever seen a factory wire that was soldered to a connector

cruiser54

Solder and shrink tubing.

PNWjeeper

Just found out that when I pulled the D44 off of a mid 80's Cherokee that I should have grabbed the drive shaft also (I'm not sure it was present when I pulled the axle anyway). I went to the jy today to see if they happened to have a driveshaft for the D44 but when looking for it in the computer it came up with 84-86 but it wanted to know the transfer case.

So long question short. Which transfer case came with a D44 in 84-86 Cherokees or does it matter.

cruiser54

A dana 44 is about an inch longer than a dana 35.

PNWjeeper

Like I said I later found out I needed the driveshaft. Is the transfer case specific to D44 axle, since that's how their computer can look up if they have it

XJwonders

Dana 44 came in 87-89 Cherokees. Transfer cases didn't mattered.

For what it's worth, when I swapped in my d44, I used my original driveshaft (I put in 2" lift in the rear)

sycoglitch

For real. OP, measure pinion to pinion and see which DS you can fit. There's a chart that shows which jeeps had what