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XJ Ask the Question Thread
CF Veteran
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: ks
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Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
I run spicer 1310s for my driveline and 760s for my axle shafts. They all came with the note to not add grease and I never have. They typically say to not mix the bearing caps as well. Following these two tips Iv had zero issues.
CF Veteran
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Mercer County, NJ
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Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L I6 HO
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Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Mississauga, Ontario
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Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0l I6
CF Veteran
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: ☼ Blackhole Sun
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Year: My Jeep is a GMC
Herp Derp Jerp
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Parham, ON
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Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L OBD-II
Not worth it to "remove" it. You have to pay to take parts out and there's no benefit. However if you're going to wheel it you can convert the A/C compressor to just an air compressor for onboard air.
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Location: Mississauga, Ontario
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Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0l I6
Yeah, I really didn't think they were tight enough, and that my torque wrench must have been off. I did tighten them more. The whole time I was thinking "Come on, I haven't been out of the shop for that long, something can't be right". Massive facepalm
Last edited by Wolf427; 08-06-2014 at 10:51 PM.
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Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0l I6
lol not hot in Mississauga? What are you from the Congo? That place is roasting during traffic. That city is like 80% blacktop.
Not worth it to "remove" it. You have to pay to take parts out and there's no benefit. However if you're going to wheel it you can convert the A/C compressor to just an air compressor for onboard air.
Lots of asphalt though, gotta find some trails, no idea where to look.(obviously not here lol)
Well aside from an idler pulley and mount.
I want that condenser out so I can stick in a bigger rad, or at least allow better flow to the OEM one. Maybe I'll get rid of that stuff and look into the air compressor conversion.
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Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Manitoba
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Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
I bought an adjustable track bar from a guy who had it on his 97 grand. It came with a rc drop bracket which I left connected. The track bar has a heim at the axle end and a bushing that looks exactly like the stock one on the frame side. From all the pictures I've seen it looks like the heim should be connected to the drop bracket. I believe the bar is a rustys track bar. Should I switch it around before driving on it?
CF Veteran
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: west chester, pa
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Year: 1999
Engine: 4.0
The trans will run ferociously hot. If it's regeared properly and had trans cooler on it, it's better, but I don't know if it still would be advisiable
Herp Derp Jerp
Join Date: Nov 2011
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Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L OBD-II
Weight: a lot
Wind load: a lot
Gears: none
Cooling capacity: dick
Cooler + gears to attempt that.
CF Veteran
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Year: 1999
Engine: 4.0
And the fact that the metal on the uniframe where the hitch bolts on is only so thin. If u have rust on it. The hitch probably would get pulled off
Beach Bum
Reconnect with a piece of rubber hose the fits snugly over hoses.
Has to do with the amount of grease in the caps. If the caps are mixed than they may not fully seat due to too much grease that has nowhere to go.
Last edited by SteveMongr; 08-07-2014 at 06:56 AM.
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Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L I6 HO
That is a vacuum line for the AC/Heat controls or 'blend door' which is above passenger foot well inside cab.
Reconnect with a piece of rubber hose the fits snugly over hoses.
Has to do with the amount of grease in the caps. If the caps are mixed than they may not fully seat due to too much grease that has nowhere to go.