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XJ Ask the Question Thread
Herp Derp Jerp
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Parham, ON
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Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L OBD-II
You should be starting a new thread in Modified Tech for this sort of stuff.
CF Veteran
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Indianapolis
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Year: '99 and '91
Model: Cherokee
That what I was thinking. Aren't all the 8.25 c-clip? And wouldn't that be better than a non c-clip d35?
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Location: Indianapolis
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Year: '99 and '91
Model: Cherokee
CF Veteran
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: San Jose
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Year: 89
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 I6
CF Veteran
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Indianapolis
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Year: '99 and '91
Model: Cherokee
Junior Member
Join Date: Apr 2014
Location: Grand Rapids, MI
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Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
Hitch
I have an '01 XJ that did not come with a tow hitch. Yesterday I bought a Reese Hitch on CL. It came with the mounting brackets but not the bolts or nuts.
I have 3 questions: Even thought my Jeep did not come with the stock tow package, does it still have holes drilled for the hitch to attach to? Is there anything else I need to pick up, other than the hardware, to assemble it? Does anyone know the bolt and nut size?
Thanks!
I have 3 questions: Even thought my Jeep did not come with the stock tow package, does it still have holes drilled for the hitch to attach to? Is there anything else I need to pick up, other than the hardware, to assemble it? Does anyone know the bolt and nut size?
Thanks!
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Huntsville, Tn
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Year: Different Years (I have several XJ's)
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 HO
Hang on - what mods are you doing to the engine that you want more than 50 PSI? The '97+ system runs at 49 PSI on the nose, and plenty of engine mods are supported with the use of higher-volume injectors at the factory pressure. You should be starting a new thread in Modified Tech for this sort of stuff.
CF Veteran
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: west chester, pa
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35 Posts
Year: 1999
Engine: 4.0
I have an '01 XJ that did not come with a tow hitch. Yesterday I bought a Reese Hitch on CL. It came with the mounting brackets but not the bolts or nuts. I have 3 questions: Even thought my Jeep did not come with the stock tow package, does it still have holes drilled for the hitch to attach to? Is there anything else I need to pick up, other than the hardware, to assemble it? Does anyone know the bolt and nut size? Thanks!
Better off buying jcr offroad's nutstrips. It's stronger that way
Junior Member
Join Date: Apr 2014
Location: Grand Rapids, MI
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Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
Thank you btw.
CF Veteran
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: west chester, pa
Posts: 19,216
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35 Posts
Year: 1999
Engine: 4.0
Junior Member
Join Date: Apr 2014
Location: Grand Rapids, MI
Posts: 58
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Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
Herp Derp Jerp
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Parham, ON
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12 Posts
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L OBD-II
My apologies. I thought it may be a yes u can use the 99 fuel rail or no I can't. Wasn't planning in going into all this. Mods have been done to the engine. Head job etc. entertaining the idea if an eaton m90 as well. 50 lbs would be good as long as I can hold a constant 50 at wot.
Note the shipping is their minimum charge and pretty cheap. If you add another cheapo item (say, steering box spacer, or other small goodies) it'll still be the min charge for the whole order.
CF Veteran
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Glendale,Az
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Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0l 6Cyl
The other day I degreased my engine bay in the hopes of cleaning up to a shiny finish.
I used the "Gunk" brand heavy duty gel. I soaked the entire engine bay and let it sit. In the past I have had issues with getting my tps wet and then having running issues afterwards. Well I used a low pressure "Shower" settings on my hose to rinse the engine off, avoiding major electrical and sensors.
I mainly focused washing out the gunk on the side of the valve cover near fuel rail to replace the gasket next week. I soaked the area to wash away the chemicals pretty heavily. After I soaked it I let it air dry for about 15 minutes. I then started it and had a very rough idle like I had poured water in the intake. I had to force the throttle for it to stay running and it was spitting and spuddering.
My question is would that mean my intake mani gasket has a leave and alloys water into the ports when I started it because I didnt get any sensor wet just the arear where the mani's meet the block on driver side.
I used the "Gunk" brand heavy duty gel. I soaked the entire engine bay and let it sit. In the past I have had issues with getting my tps wet and then having running issues afterwards. Well I used a low pressure "Shower" settings on my hose to rinse the engine off, avoiding major electrical and sensors.
I mainly focused washing out the gunk on the side of the valve cover near fuel rail to replace the gasket next week. I soaked the area to wash away the chemicals pretty heavily. After I soaked it I let it air dry for about 15 minutes. I then started it and had a very rough idle like I had poured water in the intake. I had to force the throttle for it to stay running and it was spitting and spuddering.
My question is would that mean my intake mani gasket has a leave and alloys water into the ports when I started it because I didnt get any sensor wet just the arear where the mani's meet the block on driver side.
Herp Derp Jerp
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Parham, ON
Posts: 18,251
Likes: 0
Received 13 Likes
on
12 Posts
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L OBD-II
The other day I degreased my engine bay in the hopes of cleaning up to a shiny finish.
I used the "Gunk" brand heavy duty gel. I soaked the entire engine bay and let it sit. In the past I have had issues with getting my tps wet and then having running issues afterwards. Well I used a low pressure "Shower" settings on my hose to rinse the engine off, avoiding major electrical and sensors.
I mainly focused washing out the gunk on the side of the valve cover near fuel rail to replace the gasket next week. I soaked the area to wash away the chemicals pretty heavily. After I soaked it I let it air dry for about 15 minutes. I then started it and had a very rough idle like I had poured water in the intake. I had to force the throttle for it to stay running and it was spitting and spuddering.
My question is would that mean my intake mani gasket has a leave and alloys water into the ports when I started it because I didnt get any sensor wet just the arear where the mani's meet the block on driver side.
I used the "Gunk" brand heavy duty gel. I soaked the entire engine bay and let it sit. In the past I have had issues with getting my tps wet and then having running issues afterwards. Well I used a low pressure "Shower" settings on my hose to rinse the engine off, avoiding major electrical and sensors.
I mainly focused washing out the gunk on the side of the valve cover near fuel rail to replace the gasket next week. I soaked the area to wash away the chemicals pretty heavily. After I soaked it I let it air dry for about 15 minutes. I then started it and had a very rough idle like I had poured water in the intake. I had to force the throttle for it to stay running and it was spitting and spuddering.
My question is would that mean my intake mani gasket has a leave and alloys water into the ports when I started it because I didnt get any sensor wet just the arear where the mani's meet the block on driver side.
You can verify by hitting the area with a small amount of water or brake cleaner while the engine is running. The same process used to check for vacuum leaks.