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Old 04-30-2014, 10:19 PM
  #42361  
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Originally Posted by drhoward1988
Ive seen rates anywhere from 400-800 per axle. Sounds about right as long as its a very reputable shop.
Yeah it is a very reputable offroad speciality shop. I just wasn't expecting that I guess. Looks like a regear isn't in the cards, I'm still going to get a few more quotes though.
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Old 04-30-2014, 10:30 PM
  #42362  
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It's not a bad job, do some research
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Old 04-30-2014, 10:34 PM
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It may be cheaper for you to get a D30 that's already been regeared and a 3.73 or 4.10 8.8. It's different, of course, if you need higher gears, but you probably wouldn't be running tires that big on stock axles anyway.

For my Wrangler, I'm waiting to find built axles from a YJ that someone is swapping out. You can get them cheaper that way.
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Old 04-30-2014, 10:38 PM
  #42364  
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Originally Posted by NewKindOfClown
It may be cheaper for you to get a D30 that's already been regeared and a 3.73 or 4.10 8.8. It's different, of course, if you need higher gears, but you probably wouldn't be running tires that big on stock axles anyway. For my Wrangler, I'm waiting to find built axles from a YJ that someone is swapping out. You can get them cheaper that way.
I was originally planning to do that, but it's soooo hard to find a HP dana 30 with 4.10s. 4 cylinder XJ's just don't exist around here. So on top of getting that axle, I would need to get an 8.8 and everything to install that. In the end, it won't be much more to do 4.56's.
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Old 05-01-2014, 12:14 AM
  #42365  
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I'm lifted 3.5" and have a HD Clayton track bar with the stock frame mount. There's only 2-3" from the currie joint and the d30 stock cover and they rub when flexing on that side. Will a no-lift Clayton frame bracket raise the track bar away from the cover?
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Old 05-01-2014, 04:56 AM
  #42366  
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Originally Posted by n91chriss
So the vibes were the front driveshaft, no one answered so I figured I ought to. I hear a weird whirring in second gear as I rev to go to third. The transfer case is obviously engaging my front shaft in a load variable situation, it was low on fluid, most of a quart. Filling it up didn't improve one iota. Any ideas how damaged my internals could be?
Go to WalMart and get yourself some "MotorKote", in the oil isle. Follow directions on the bottle times two for the first application. It may save your TC. It is expensive, but not as bad as a new TC. I use it in every part of my Cherokee . It works a lot better then the old banana trick, and it's easier to add then trying to stuff bananas through those small holes. LOL
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Old 05-01-2014, 09:18 AM
  #42367  
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My windshield wipers are acting crazy. When I turn them on, sometimes they wont turn off. Also, they slap down really hard onto the hood sometimes, and other times don't go all the way down. They don't work at different speeds either.
Would you say this is the motor or wiring?

2001 XJ Limited
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Old 05-01-2014, 09:22 AM
  #42368  
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I would say that's the multi function switch.
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Old 05-01-2014, 05:26 PM
  #42369  
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I am looking to understand the set up of my 1997 fog lights. It did not come with them. I have so far installed the switch in the cockpit and figured I'd have to get a harness, relay, etc. But while installing a harness for the H4 headlights I found a single two wire stock pigtail that was OEM secured in front of, in the center of and just below the radiator. My understanding is that if this was an older XJ that might be the fog light pigtail which would require a "Y" split connector. But since this is a 1997 XJ, there should be a fog light connector for each fog light located a few inches from where the fog light are mounted. So, what is this? An older style fog light harness - or - a connection to something else entirely?
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Old 05-01-2014, 06:07 PM
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Something else entirely - that's for a temperature sensor used to drive the optional overhead console. On non-fog lamp equipped models the wiring stops at the connector under the dash.
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Old 05-01-2014, 06:09 PM
  #42371  
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Originally Posted by Legicircenses
I am looking to understand the set up of my 1997 fog lights. It did not come with them. I have so far installed the switch in the cockpit and figured I'd have to get a harness, relay, etc. But while installing a harness for the H4 headlights I found a single two wire stock pigtail that was OEM secured in front of, in the center of and just below the radiator. My understanding is that if this was an older XJ that might be the fog light pigtail which would require a "Y" split connector. But since this is a 1997 XJ, there should be a fog light connector for each fog light located a few inches from where the fog light are mounted. So, what is this? An older style fog light harness - or - a connection to something else entirely?
It's for a deer whistle.

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Old 05-01-2014, 06:10 PM
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Originally Posted by CCKen
It's for a deer whistle.

Deer don't whistle, but geese honk.
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Old 05-01-2014, 06:26 PM
  #42373  
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Originally Posted by CCKen
It's for a deer whistle.

I've taken them out, not a big deal so long as your not speeding in a deer zone, they don't leap just before you hit them and u've got a respectable frame mounted front guard. It's the moose you need to worry about - i took one of them out 2 - but no worries, it was in a rental Montero and where for once God smiled on me and I had taken out the walk away insurance policy. Montero 0, Moose 1. Best part of it was my buddy riding in the back seat as we drove to Big Sky - me "put on your seat belt" as we pulled out of the only gas station in 20 miles, him "who are you my mother? And just what in the h_ll do you think we are gonna hit out here??" No joke, 30 seconds later we were in the ditch and our front end was missing and all we saw of the in the headlights was the furry bottom of its tummy over our hood.
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Old 05-01-2014, 06:29 PM
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Originally Posted by salad
Something else entirely - that's for a temperature sensor used to drive the optional overhead console. On non-fog lamp equipped models the wiring stops at the connector under the dash.
Awesome! Thank you. Been trying to nail that down for a while.
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Old 05-01-2014, 11:05 PM
  #42375  
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Anyone know about uncaking grease? My clayton track bar johnny joint's grease is caked to where I can only move it by hand with my ratchet. Also the bolt is stuck in the sleeve somehow, guessing torch it to get it out? Can i spray my joint with wd-40 degreaser? I've tried to hammer out the bolt but at the time it was out but had not relieve.

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