09-21-2015, 03:49 PM
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XJ Ask the Question Thread
06-18-2017, 12:05 PM
CF Veteran
Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: Greenville, SC
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Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee(XJ)
Engine: 4.0
Originally Posted by Ralph77
So I have seen the heated seat switches in an XJ but never noticed what I circled. What is that?
06-18-2017, 07:15 PM
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Location: North Carolina
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Year: 1991
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Thanks for the link. Now, I can't seem to find the grommets that go in the valve cover!! I think I have found grommets that fit every Cherokee but my 1991 4.0!
Here ya go
https://www.moparpartsoverstock.com/...driveLine=9359[/QUOTE]
Here ya go
https://www.moparpartsoverstock.com/...driveLine=9359[/QUOTE]
06-18-2017, 07:22 PM
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Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
06-19-2017, 01:09 PM
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Year: 1989
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Recommendations on where to get a
231 transfer case chain.
Probably pulling the 42re out of the zj soon and figure I should give the transfer case some love while it's out.
231 transfer case chain.
Probably pulling the 42re out of the zj soon and figure I should give the transfer case some love while it's out.
06-19-2017, 01:36 PM
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Year: 1999
Engine: 4.0
Originally Posted by my89xj
Recommendations on where to get a
231 transfer case chain.
Probably pulling the 42re out of the zj soon and figure I should give the transfer case some love while it's out.
231 transfer case chain.
Probably pulling the 42re out of the zj soon and figure I should give the transfer case some love while it's out.
06-19-2017, 02:22 PM
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Year: 1989
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
06-19-2017, 02:59 PM
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Year: 1998
Engine: 4.0L FI OHV 6cyl
it can be bad for some sensors like your O2 sensor and it's agueable whether or not it's good for sparkplugs. If something requires a specific torque don't use antisieze as the lubricating properties will make you over torque the fastener.
Edit: also generally if you can't get a bolt out with a decent breaker bar the impact either isn't going to work either
you'll have more luck using an acetylene torch(MAP and propane can sometimes work), soaking in penetrating fluid(ATF and acetone are supposed to work great) and a breaker bar.
Edit: also generally if you can't get a bolt out with a decent breaker bar the impact either isn't going to work either
you'll have more luck using an acetylene torch(MAP and propane can sometimes work), soaking in penetrating fluid(ATF and acetone are supposed to work great) and a breaker bar.
Shoot, sounds like a torch will be the way to go then. I have seen some inspiring videos where people used rust penetrant and rocked the bolt back and forth using a tightening and loosening method while stopping and using a hammer and more rust penetrant then back to the impact and it broke the bolt free. They said beware of using a torch because if you can't get the bolt off you can accidentally expand the metal and make it even hard to take off. I think some people said something about accidently hardening the bolt too from heating and cooling, though that might have been if people were splashing liquid on it to cool it off. I figured if I go with the torch or impact my backup would be to just break the bolt and use a drill to drill through the bolts to remove the control arms. Though, couldn't the torch just cut through the bolts? Or would that much heat in that area risk ruining the frame which I would need to install my new control arm and bolts?
Thanks again for all the help. I think I will look into acquiring a torch.
06-19-2017, 05:08 PM
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Year: 1993 YJ Wrangler
Engine: 4.0 I6
06-20-2017, 10:22 AM
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Year: 01
Model: Cherokee
Hey I came across an 01 limited at the junkyard. Barely touched. Snagged the tweeters which I'm pumped about. Are the door speakers in those better than the sport?
And to make the tweeters work
do I simply just plug them in? Are they just tied in with the door speaker controls? I have a pioneer head unit which only "controls" front and back. No tweeter option
And to make the tweeters work
do I simply just plug them in? Are they just tied in with the door speaker controls? I have a pioneer head unit which only "controls" front and back. No tweeter option
06-20-2017, 10:37 AM
Senior Member
Hey I came across an 01 limited at the junkyard. Barely touched. Snagged the tweeters which I'm pumped about. Are the door speakers in those better than the sport?
And to make the tweeters work
do I simply just plug them in? Are they just tied in with the door speaker controls? I have a pioneer head unit which only "controls" front and back. No tweeter option
And to make the tweeters work
do I simply just plug them in? Are they just tied in with the door speaker controls? I have a pioneer head unit which only "controls" front and back. No tweeter option
06-20-2017, 10:39 AM
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Year: 01
Model: Cherokee
06-20-2017, 03:14 PM
Herp Derp Jerp
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Location: Parham, ON
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Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L OBD-II
Sounds good. I was mainly looking to use on threads and bolts down below for areas exposed to the road salt since I will be moving back to Chicago from Las Vegas next year. I will avoid using it on any sensors. Also, I have seen people mention the torque issues so I will steer clear of using it for sensitive torque requirement parts.
Shoot, sounds like a torch will be the way to go then. I have seen some inspiring videos where people used rust penetrant and rocked the bolt back and forth using a tightening and loosening method while stopping and using a hammer and more rust penetrant then back to the impact and it broke the bolt free. They said beware of using a torch because if you can't get the bolt off you can accidentally expand the metal and make it even hard to take off. I think some people said something about accidently hardening the bolt too from heating and cooling, though that might have been if people were splashing liquid on it to cool it off.
I figured if I go with the torch or impact my backup would be to just break the bolt and use a drill to drill through the bolts to remove the control arms. Though, couldn't the torch just cut through the bolts? Or would that much heat in that area risk ruining the frame which I would need to install my new control arm and bolts?
A LOT of penetrating oil is the ticket.
If you're not into an oxy/acetylene setup, MAPP gas is where it's at. I've only needed acetylene once, and that was for O2 sensors. I'm sure things go faster but I can't justify the cost at my hobbyist level. Propane is for barbecues, lol.
06-20-2017, 03:16 PM
Herp Derp Jerp
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Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L OBD-II
so the jeep failed smog, for all categories lol!
any advice? It had mismatched injectors when I bought it so I just changed them and picked up an o2 sensor and can of sea foam. Was thinking about doing plugs and an air filter also. All the tune up parts are new according to the previous owner.
any advice? It had mismatched injectors when I bought it so I just changed them and picked up an o2 sensor and can of sea foam. Was thinking about doing plugs and an air filter also. All the tune up parts are new according to the previous owner.
Previous owner comments shouldn't be trusted. Check the spark plugs for good gap.