WTF?!! Fuel Pump? CP Sensor? Neutral Safety Switch? Computer?
CF Veteran
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 1,562
Likes: 3
From: Spanaway
Year: 97
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
I say double check your crank position sensor. It affects your fuel system,your ignition system, timing, just about everything. Mine went out in the driveway, I drove it home turned it off and the next day it wouldnt start. No warnings at all. The guages thing also happend in my xj. Try adjusting the steering colum up or down, it used to make the guages work in mine.
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 52
Likes: 1
From: Navajo Nation
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
It does have an ASD relay. I reconnected my splice with new connectors. I have vigorously wiggled those wires when it was running to see if it would shut down - nothing. There are no gas leaks. The smell is definately exhaust. The O2 sensor that I replaced was on the pipe, directly below the manifold. Why does it shut down at the same time everyday?
CF Veteran
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 10,489
Likes: 24
From: Nor-Cal Coast
Year: 90,84
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0,2.5
Was reading about the Auto Shutdown Relay for another poster. The article used a shorting fuel pump wire as an example for a reason the ASD could be triggered to shut things down. Since you mentioned you know you mashed your fuel pump wires I had to mention that. Never knew there was such a thing, don't know if my 90 has one or where it is.
CPS just sounds like such an easy test. Unplug it, connect a meter to the two wires going to the sensor. On the lowest AC scale, (not Mil-Volts). The test is done with the engine cranking normally. (good bat./starter ect.) .5 V good, .4 V probably good, less than .4 V intermittent, maybe OK maybe not. I guess new ones have been failing this test.
If it's working, but low you can take the next sized drill bit that will fit through the hole and enlarge it. Installing you need to apply constant downward pressure while you tighten the bolts to get the proximity you gained drilling.
That there, /\ is my interpretation of info cruiser posted, some of which he got from Jeep while working at a dealership.
OK, I just tested my 12 year old CPS on my 90. It read .3. (meter does not have 100ths.). Took less than 3 minutes total, (I have small clips on my meter leads). Didn't need help. Jeep runs well but I'm getting 16, not 18+ which this all stock once did...?
CPS just sounds like such an easy test. Unplug it, connect a meter to the two wires going to the sensor. On the lowest AC scale, (not Mil-Volts). The test is done with the engine cranking normally. (good bat./starter ect.) .5 V good, .4 V probably good, less than .4 V intermittent, maybe OK maybe not. I guess new ones have been failing this test.
If it's working, but low you can take the next sized drill bit that will fit through the hole and enlarge it. Installing you need to apply constant downward pressure while you tighten the bolts to get the proximity you gained drilling.
That there, /\ is my interpretation of info cruiser posted, some of which he got from Jeep while working at a dealership.
OK, I just tested my 12 year old CPS on my 90. It read .3. (meter does not have 100ths.). Took less than 3 minutes total, (I have small clips on my meter leads). Didn't need help. Jeep runs well but I'm getting 16, not 18+ which this all stock once did...?
Last edited by DFlintstone; Oct 24, 2011 at 01:47 PM.
CF Veteran
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 10,489
Likes: 24
From: Nor-Cal Coast
Year: 90,84
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0,2.5
Sheez, I've been thinking about that. Gotta wonder about some sort of temperature threshold. 4 can be a warmer part of the day. I guess on some the E-fan won't come on until some high temp, ?213*? or so. I wonder if it was drawing huge current, (I had a Ford E-Fan do that once, WORKED FINE, just drew 25 amps!). Anyway if the ASD saw that as a short it might shut things down. You could try temporally unplugging the fan to rule that out. Maybe when you stop long enough to unplug that vac line it cools down a bit...heck I don't know! Codes?
How did that splice look before you re-did it it, and did you check that vent tube while you where there?
Or there is limited current there for some other reason and when the E-fan kick's in the voltage drops. Ether way unplugging it would rule it out.
10/25--Also you mentioned >>>won't come out of park unless I turn on the heater<<<. The heater blower, like the E-Fan is also high draw.
How did that splice look before you re-did it it, and did you check that vent tube while you where there?
Or there is limited current there for some other reason and when the E-fan kick's in the voltage drops. Ether way unplugging it would rule it out.
10/25--Also you mentioned >>>won't come out of park unless I turn on the heater<<<. The heater blower, like the E-Fan is also high draw.
Last edited by DFlintstone; Oct 25, 2011 at 06:50 AM.
CF Veteran
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 10,489
Likes: 24
From: Nor-Cal Coast
Year: 90,84
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0,2.5
I've been getting some of the acronyms screwed up.
CKP (CranKshaft Position sensor) and CMP (CaMshaft Position sensor.)
CKP is the common culprit for no start, at 11:00 on the flywheel, reports TDC and RPM.
CMP in the dist. fails less often, seems only to report if, (say#1), is coming up on exhaust, or compression, for timing injector firing. Takes longer but the engine can start without it.
** Also Paul, if you could check spark sometime when it won't run, that would be nifty.
CKP (CranKshaft Position sensor) and CMP (CaMshaft Position sensor.)
CKP is the common culprit for no start, at 11:00 on the flywheel, reports TDC and RPM.
CMP in the dist. fails less often, seems only to report if, (say#1), is coming up on exhaust, or compression, for timing injector firing. Takes longer but the engine can start without it.
** Also Paul, if you could check spark sometime when it won't run, that would be nifty.
Last edited by DFlintstone; Oct 25, 2011 at 07:41 AM.
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 52
Likes: 1
From: Navajo Nation
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
There is a lot of good advice here. While I was down with food poisoning the last couple of days, I ordered a OBDM 2 scanner from Amazon. It should get here in a couple of days. I couldn't find my voltmeter, so I bought one today. Incidentally, it wouldn't start for me today when I came out of the P.O. My radio had been mysteriously stuck on A.M. and not being fluent in Navajo or particularly being a fan of evangelical christians or bad country music, I was determined to get my FM back. I disconnected the negative battery lead and got my FM back, praise God. But, then my jeep wouldn't start- turn the key and nothing, no matter what I did. So, I disconnected the both leads, touched them together & walla. She started right up. I will focus on that crank position sensor and the fuel pump wiring. I am also going to double check my grounds. I think that the CPS makes a lot of sense. Would the CPS affect fuel/ air mixture in any way? I realize that I probably have multiple issues going on. Right now, I need to resolve the one that leaves me stranded in the desert with no one but Jesus freaks to console me.
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 52
Likes: 1
From: Navajo Nation
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Well, it was a warm, sunny day today and after replacing the CPS, I drove all over the place, then went down to Gallup in the late afternoon. I drove 85 there and back and she ran great the whole time - no more noxious fumes, either. Thanx, y'all.
Member
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 121
Likes: 0
From: Eastern NC
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L Straight 6
I tried the procedure detailed here:
https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f2/jee...di-obdii-3341/
and got nothing. It went thru the 111111 to 999999 and then right back to the mileage - no serial #, no code. I tried both procedures with and without the parking break. No flashing check engine light either. But, its on when the engine is running.
https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f2/jee...di-obdii-3341/
and got nothing. It went thru the 111111 to 999999 and then right back to the mileage - no serial #, no code. I tried both procedures with and without the parking break. No flashing check engine light either. But, its on when the engine is running.


