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Wreck damage detection?

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Old 01-28-2011, 03:40 PM
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Default Wreck damage detection?

What would I look for to see if my Jeep has been in a wreck and repaired? I checked carfax before I bought it and that was clean. When I looked it over before buying I didn't see any tool marks and the body looked straight. However, at the time I didn't notice that the front bumper had no plate mounts. I just got the build sheet and the original bumper came with factory front plate mounts. Obviously the bumper has been replaced. I've also found some overspray on the body near the rear windows.

I still don't think the vehicle has been wrecked, at least not badly, but I am curious as to why the front bumper was replaced (CA requires front plates so no reason not to have a front plate mount). The current one is a bit banged up anyway so that seemed odd as well. I don't see any evidence of body work, but I also don't really have any clue what to look for.

Thanks!
Old 01-28-2011, 05:19 PM
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Well the way I figured out mine was in a wreck was the bumper said 1995 on it and the front quarter panel was wrinkled, some pieces did not fit quite right, and the foam that covered the mirrror was peeled off, saying to me that it was replaced, all on one side. but thats just what I saw on tp, underneath the frame and some bolts and parts were wrinkled and even torn slightly.
Old 01-28-2011, 05:26 PM
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If the pinch seals and spot welds under the hood where the inner fender meets the outer are OK, it probably just banged up the bumper and replaced it.
Old 01-28-2011, 07:57 PM
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A split in the plastic gauge cover tells me somebody hit something before I got it. That, and a short in the wiring that causes the driver's side speakers to cut in and out. Pretty sure the short's in the harness up in the dash, which tells me it was probably a glancing blow on the front driver's side.

Or I could be crazy.

What I can't figure out is the *SNAP* sound I hear above my head when it's really cold. WTF is that? Every time I hit a pothole when I'm turning, it sounds like a windshield crack snapping, but only when it's really cold out. Loud. But I've got a new windshield, and there are no cracks...and it's coming from right above my head. Weird. Anybody got theories on this one?
Old 01-28-2011, 08:24 PM
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Originally Posted by nomeaculpa
A split in the plastic gauge cover tells me somebody hit something before I got it. That, and a short in the wiring that causes the driver's side speakers to cut in and out. Pretty sure the short's in the harness up in the dash, which tells me it was probably a glancing blow on the front driver's side.

Or I could be crazy.

What I can't figure out is the *SNAP* sound I hear above my head when it's really cold. WTF is that? Every time I hit a pothole when I'm turning, it sounds like a windshield crack snapping, but only when it's really cold out. Loud. But I've got a new windshield, and there are no cracks...and it's coming from right above my head. Weird. Anybody got theories on this one?
The jeeps are notorious for electrical connection issues.

As for the snap, don't worry about that, my moms 98 does that and my 2000 does it after the plastic gets warm and expands.
Old 01-28-2011, 11:51 PM
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Could be just minor damage...

Usually if a vehicle is in a serious collision, and it goes through insurance, it is going to be reported to Carfax. Or if the previous owner actually did the repairs outright, that would be believable too, but do all repair shops report to carfax????

I see where your getting at, Ill look into this, my Jeep didnt come with plate mounts either, but SPD really doesnt trip over it much
Old 01-29-2011, 02:22 PM
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I have the plate on top of my dash right now. One of these days I'll get around to drilling some holes in the bumper and mounting it. Got other things to fix first though.

All the seams and welds look fine, so I'm pretty sure if there was a wreck it wasn't serious. It does, however, look like someone kicked the **** out of the doors. I didn't mind so much when I was buying it since I intend to replace with 97+ doors, but until then I guess I'll grab some bondo and get some color matched spray paint and fix it up.

Originally Posted by onyx86
Could be just minor damage...

Usually if a vehicle is in a serious collision, and it goes through insurance, it is going to be reported to Carfax. Or if the previous owner actually did the repairs outright, that would be believable too, but do all repair shops report to carfax????

I see where your getting at, Ill look into this, my Jeep didnt come with plate mounts either, but SPD really doesnt trip over it much
Old 01-29-2011, 03:01 PM
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take a refrigerator magnet and see if it sticks on various panels...open the hood and the inner fenders/aprons should look the same on each side IE spot welds not covered with seam sealer or bondo, paint isint cracked or recent in that area, make sure the back is the same ...magnet really does the trick for finding mud in your panels...the magnet wont stick if a large amount of mud is present...if thinly applied (correct way to use plastic filler IE Bondo) the magnet wil still stick...its stickieness (or lack there of) will determine how much mud is in the panels if at all...if it dont stick then there be a large amount of mud on the panel..check each pillar for consistancy....lots of shops are lazy and dont pull the trim or seals off of doors etc and just tape when they paint...look for that also...biggest thing is make sure the thing tracks down the road correctly..I wouldnt be too concerned if the panels have been repaired ....be very concerned if the unibody is not square...
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Old 01-29-2011, 03:47 PM
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There is a pretty thick coating of what seems to be underbody sealant all over the underbody. I'll have to check the seams and welds and whatnot when the weather improves. Maybe I'll get lucky this afternoon and can go take a look.

The vehicle pulls very slightly to the right but that could be that it needs an alignment. Any other way to make sure the unibody is square?

I know the vehicle was painted because there is overspray on some of the body trim around the back glass. That's what got me thinking. I didn't catch it when looking over the vehicle before I bought it.

What are you referring to when you mention aprons?

I've done some basic body work before. Bondo, paint etc. just no structural stuff, so I'm not sure what to look for in that regard. Your advice helped a lot, thanks!


Originally Posted by ck1
take a refrigerator magnet and see if it sticks on various panels...open the hood and the inner fenders/aprons should look the same on each side IE spot welds not covered with seam sealer or bondo, paint isint cracked or recent in that area, make sure the back is the same ...magnet really does the trick for finding mud in your panels...the magnet wont stick if a large amount of mud is present...if thinly applied (correct way to use plastic filler IE Bondo) the magnet wil still stick...its stickieness (or lack there of) will determine how much mud is in the panels if at all...if it dont stick then there be a large amount of mud on the panel..check each pillar for consistancy....lots of shops are lazy and dont pull the trim or seals off of doors etc and just tape when they paint...look for that also...biggest thing is make sure the thing tracks down the road correctly..I wouldnt be too concerned if the panels have been repaired ....be very concerned if the unibody is not square...
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Old 01-29-2011, 04:05 PM
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Originally Posted by tylerspyler

As for the snap, don't worry about that, my moms 98 does that and my 2000 does it after the plastic gets warm and expands.
Seriously? Wow...thanks. I'm used to weird noises, but this sucker sounds like a .22 rifle going off in the cab.
Old 01-30-2011, 09:12 AM
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Originally Posted by nomeaculpa
Seriously? Wow...thanks. I'm used to weird noises, but this sucker sounds like a .22 rifle going off in the cab.
I know, it took me a few months to figure it out but thats what it is, and yes its very loud. I thought it was bolts busting it was so loud.
Old 01-30-2011, 11:41 AM
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Originally Posted by Superhero
Any other way to make sure the unibody is square?

I What are you referring to when you mention aprons?

!
An alignment will tell alot. if it wont align then you have some unibody/structure/suspension issues...usually if it is bad to NOt take an alignment then you will see big differences on panel gaps BUT it is a jeep and they are VERY sloppy to begin with so that doesnt apply here. If it wont take an alignment and you KNOW that the suspension is cool then whip it over to a reputable body or frame shop and pay to have them set up measure the body..cost ya maybe.150.0-200 but you will know for sure.. as far as the aprons. They are the inner structure where the outer fender mounts to at the top also called wheel house not to be confused with the inner fender which is usually plastic and inside the wheel well. take a good gander at the aprons from the top down to the front rails and back to the cowl...should look somewhat the same as the otherside...IE paint, dirt, seam seal etc all the bolts holding the bolt on items to the apron should appear the same kind IE no freakin wood/sheet metal screws or newer screws bolts can be seen...the seam seal is usualy the biggest giveaway as it should look the same all over the car/Jeep where it is used IE the cowl to apron should look the same rt to left. some manufactuers put it on like a 3 year old (like my employer GM and some do a decent job but you can always tell when it has been done after the assembly of the car...that is one of the first things I look for when buy a car...PM me if you want I will be more then happy to help you out
Cameron

Last edited by ck1; 01-30-2011 at 12:00 PM.
Old 01-31-2011, 09:21 PM
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I checked under the hood and looked at all the sheetmetal and welds etc. as and as far as I can tell nothing has been messed with. Several of the bushings in the suspension are shot. I gotta replace them before I bother with an alignment.

While in there I did notice the engine mounts look almost brand new. Also, when I tuned it up, the new rotor wouldn't fit. I took it back to the local shop along with the rotor from the engine and they said that the rotor is from a '94... I need to check the engine tag to see what year this engine was made. I didn't think a '94 4.0 would just drop into a '92 though. Aren't there some pretty significant differences between those years?
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